montana tom

Hi Chuck; That is the differential , transfer is with sliding clutches further back. I can't get your video to come up . I have not pulled that retainer to change out the seal before, always just popped it out and tapped in a new one. Now that its to late, I should mention that those seals almost never go bad. I would definitely attempt to reassemble before I order a new transmission. Where did you get your replacement axles? Never never get a re-manufactured one. Must are coming out of china. Even many new ones are coming from there. They have been known to vibrate right out of the box.

Hi all; Picked up an 01 limited 5 speed to flip this week. The seller claimed new head gaskets, new oe timing set , new factory thermostat. heads sent off to machine shop. All done in Jan 18. I was shown the bill. Car ran good until may then started overheating. Would run apx 25 miles before heating up. Putting pressure into the radiator just like a 25 D engine... having never come across a cyl. leaking head gasket on a 2.5 1 I went under the assumption that I would find a cracked head. Inspection of the spark plugs after bringing it home showed #1 plug water stained. While pulling the motor I saw that indeed a new timing set was on the car, not OE but not junk. The "new" thermostat had 1/4" holes drilled into it ,no doubt by the seller hoping to fix his heating up problem. My thought at that point was a low rent machine shop swapping out heads instead of rebuilding what was brought to them. Seller claimed he had the head gaskets done because they were oil dripping & he wanted to get another 100,00 out of his car... When removing the first head I could see that factory gaskets were not used ... after head was off, the problem was glaringly apparent, total crap quality head gasket !!! I have never seen a gasket deteriorate like this one had! In only 5 months ! No name left on the gasket if it ever had one. I pulled the other head and it would have been leaking any day! No proof but I have no doubt they were china gaskets.... The seller paid almost $1800 for this work, $200 alone for head gaskets and bolts! Moral of the story... Factory original parts ! If you can not do the work yourself... find a real Subaru shop. You usually get what you pay for... sometimes you get even less. He sold me the car for $800... costly little fix by a non subaru shop for him... nice clean car for me.

Somebody has been playing in the mud! Looks like fun! Good luck with your project.

Yes,it will but try a though cleaning first. It may not be your problem. Does the car have any codes showing or pending? What ever you do do not try to adjust anything, it will only make it worse. R&R only.

Iac valve , clean or replace.

Ebay item #( 131463945004 ) Brand new Pair of Subaru #610 head gaskets $88.95 delivered. From a Subaru dealer. Chase all the threads , lube again, especially the seat at the head of the bolt

Ok; Let me see if I got this straight. Your post is slightly confusing. You bought a 99 with bad HG , you repaired it yourself and it worked for a while but now it has gone out again? Then you have a different motor from a wrecked car that you want to use but it will not turn all the way over ? If your looking for a bad head gasket , remove the head and look at the gasket ... you can always see where it blew thru. cracked heads can happen if the motor gets hot enough. Of course if it got that hot the rod bearings are next.

Well I have bought a new rebuilt one thru ebay, over $400 but is in the wifes car has grease-able ujoints and has performed 4-5 years now. So have some of those used ones as well. I have heard mixed reports about the cheaper driveline's most say they are fine a few have said they are not balanced properly. I have never even checked what a Subaru one would cost.

You need to remove the heat shield first , then its 6 bolts. I would change out the whole thing. I have bought several used take off drivelines over the years , run around $100 so far not one has come back.

Well I can tell you that the cam and crank sensors can be different between auto and manual trannys no matter which motor you use. And they are very different motors. The 99 2.2 leaves a lot to be desired,it is an interference motor and it has oil use issues ... it doesn't hold a candle to the 96 -90 non interference motor. I would get a 2002 -04 2.5 for it.

Look for an 00-04 outback or an 05 baja. These will still use a cable feed throtle. Watch out for a 2004 California emission car,which is the very first of the drive by wire cars.

Every time you are in a parking lot and you see a nice subi , ask where they get their work done. Sooner or later you will locate the hidden subi shop. There will be one somewhere. I know this because, I am the hidden subi shop around here. I get referrals all the time and I hear the same thing. OMG why didn't I find you sooner! Nobody else around here knows how to work on my Subaru ! Why don't you advertise??? Easy I don't need to. Quality Subaru work advertises itself !

Did you change the engine temperature control? Located on water jacket under intake manifold on pass side. (pick and pull) Knock sensor ? driver side under intake manifold ?(pick and pull) Did you check timing ? Have you done a compression test ? Have the valves ever been adjusted ?

Haven't cleaned a cv and done a boot in many years now. On a personal vehicle that you see the boot get ripped and disassemble that day you most likely can save the joint. After that I change the axle. When a car rolls in my shop now, no way could I afford to change boots. ( I did it all the time in the 1980's) around here with gravel roads the damage is already done before they can drive it here. To answer your question... flush with clean solvent and blow out with clean air. Wear a face shield ... no fumes to speak of but lots of splash.

Burned valve and it would be shaking at idle , most likely show a misfire code. Compression test would show that. So far in over 30 years messing with subarus and I personally have not seen a dropped guide, even when I was dirt circle track racing and seriously over reving at times, the heads always held together... more than I can say for a few pistons though .

vacuum leak or the timing off a tooth, both come to mind.

Less than 30 miles at less than 25 mph. All four tires on the ground, engine off. It should be in the owners manual. I've done this numerous times with no damage.

No not at all. Just make sure its the correct trans. Do not pinch any wires while installing .And DO NOT dent the tranny pan, by jacking with out a 2x4 to spread the weight. As Tex mentioned only put a subaru filter on the outside of that tranny!

On 2001 Outbacks ) The 5 speed cars were 4:11) the 4cly cars were 4:44 )the6 cly cars are 4:11 On 2001 Legacy) non turbo cars 5 speed and auto are 4:11 Won't be a drop in. Not sure on turbos. The id numbers near the starter will, if decoded tell you what you have and what you need.

option 5) Wrecking yard , get a used one they last for years. option 4) is a good choice also.

Lots of choices) Bad plug / bad coil / bad injector / Shorting out , (view in the dark )/ valve adjustment . Checked compression ? Looked at the plug in #4 ? Is it throwing a #4 misfire code ? My guess, as it temp cleared up with new wires , is the coil.

On an 00-04 . The abs sensor is magnetic , mounts thru the hub and reads directly from the axle. The ring heartless showed is the 90's version, the 00-04 have it built on the cv axle itself. . Pretty sure the "newer " ones are the same . It has to read a turning part to know what the tire is doing.

known as Stub shafts

What I'm using is lubriplate, but any assembly lube or just plain oil will work. The idea is to lube it up the first time after that the engine oil takes care of it. Use what you got . Just don't push that seal all the way in.