montana tom

Yes ,they all have a dinger in the US. other markets may have more sense... Whynot; The dinger has absolutely nothing to do with being able to remove the key . You have a remote programming issue. Your fob is bad or your under dash unit is malfunctioning. Or your wiring has been disabled / cut. Find another same year car at the wrecking yard and inspect the system on it.

It's walmart... with minimum wage workers... I'm sorry but you get what you pay for. Very likely the tech did the damage... oh well.... They won't admit it... Its just a wheel stud ... knock it out yourself and change it. If you let the walmart boys pull that hub to change a stud your in for way bigger issues than a buggered stud.

You can unplug the key dinger. No cutting required. Someone may have done this to your car. Check the harness up the column. Here in the sticks people routinely leave the key in the car many have come to me asking for that xxxx dinger to be shut up.

85 brat would be a carb engine it might not be plug and play on those fuel lines and your fuel pump probably will need an upgrade to a higher pressure.

on the engine the top connector is fuel in , next down is fuel return (same size) smallest is vent

Smack it out with a hammer, Place new stud in hole .... tap in as best you can ... place larger nut over stud from wheel side anti sieze stud,spin on lug nut snug to larger nut ... big ratchet and draw stud into place. The final draw down happens after you install the tire and rim . Use large tool to make sure stud is seated ... don't forget to back it off and re-torgue studs when done.

Bypass the heater core and see how it does. You didn't mention the electric fans I assume they are functioning normally ?

Wow ! Thumbs down for VW ! Good reason to have a Subaru backup Deadeye

Check the smaller power wire going to the fuse box from the battery , it could have corrosion inside and not be able to send full amperage to the system.

I'm thinking a torch is definitely last resort. Imagine the fire you would create... industrial heat gun is much safer... Large hammer & lg screw driver would take it out. Make a heck of a mess as well. Call a private shop not a dealer ship . If no shop around then visit the dealer in person and go around to the shop doors and ask a real person....who might have a clue. The nice lady up front wants you to get rid of that old spoob and BUY NEW !!! The american way ! You know 30,000 in debt for 5-7 years... or continue to fix your old car .... your choice...

John; I know you said it was tight area ... but can you get a hammer / chisel on it ? Up at the top??? (I doubt it) Your heat gun idea may work. Old plastic does break or melt , make sure that a replacement part is quickly available before you get violent with it. When you do get it off make sure you use anti seize on the threads and seat. Have you talked to a VW shop ? I'm sure they have had this issue (why are they using cartridge rather than a spin on in 2018 !!!) They may tell you to break it and just replace it ????

Steve did the foot long shaft come out with the converter? Nothing holds the actual t/c in place but the bolts to the flex plate. No c- clip. Your issue is with the inner shaft. Do not remove any C clip to install! Remove just the T/C and then the shaft and see what the fix is.

Pull gently back away from tranny, rotate converter either direction and try again. Continue until you hit the flat spots down inside and then the converter will slip in that last little bit.

Have you checked for codes ? If you don't have a reader, most parts houses will read it for you for free.

Moog ball joint, kyb struts , new top caps for the struts, leave the tie rods alone unless they are loose, for that matter same with the ball joint... if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I didn't find another connector. I wired around it. I'm sure I could have found another connector at a wrecking yard out here

The 642 is the one for everything . The 770 is overkill unless its a turbo.

You can try your old cap BUT...Sounds like bad head gaskets to me.

When I get out of the woods to the BIG city's of Missoula & Spokane I can see dozens of baja's any day. They definitely are less numerous than outbacks but there is no shortage in the N.W. I'm sure you can find a rust free body out here, of course it most likely will have deer damage on a fender... cracked windshield , paint shot , but it will have great tires and run all day at 80 mph , dodging deer of course...

Throw away that chilton's manual, they cause more grief than help . Move the crank as Tex instructed. The keyway should be down when lines on top are even . Drivers side cam is under tension when properly lined up ... it will stay at just where it needs to be, with notch in plastic housing lining up with mark on cam gear. Pass. side cam is free floating when lined up with the crack in the case. When all three hash marks are lined up, leave the top pass side idler loose to help install belt. Now attempt to feed the belt on . Books say go counterclockwise I always go clockwise! start at the crank pay absolutely no attention to the silly lines printed on the belt, proceed under the tensioner and around the drivers side cam gear follow around water pump idlers pass side cam gear and finally slip it under the loosened idler (don't forget to tighten it up) If all timing marks line up then books say to pull the pin ... I say hand roll the motor over 2 revolutions until marks come back in line ... IF all three still are perfectly in line THEN pull the tensioner pin and hand rotate 2 more revolutions , Marks should all three still be perfect if so finish your installation if they are off AT ALL START OVER ! (EDIT) Didn't realize this is a ej25 D motor

Don't bother testing a used one ... install it . Get several , chances are if this is your problem one of the wrecking yard ones will change it. I wouldn't buy a new one until I was sure this is really the issue. After you confirm, then worry about a new one. I see prices on them from 60- 80 bucks as long as its not calf. emission.... those are 180-280 bucks go figure ... EDIT) By the way , 165,000 is barely broken in..... mine has 298,000 would drive it to key west today ! Well maybe wait till January....

That's a tough one. How long has it been going on ? Did you all the current work hoping to clear the stutter up ? Yes, a bad map sensor can cause a hesitation, Low manifold pressure makes the ecu think the engine is not under load so it cuts the amount of fuel, causing a stutter or hesitation, this also makes for great fuel economy . New map sensor runs 60-80 bucks or more , grab one from a wrecking yard or borrow one from a good running car and try.

Yup Bennie; All the US issue cars have a fiber doughnut between the resonator pipe and the muffler pipe. Uses 2 spring loaded bolts to allow flex.

Ya know , between Tex's idea of a spark plug removed and an air line and horsehockeys shop vac you might get lucky. Clean empty shop vac so you know if it gets it. Worth a try !

Those are the correct 8 bolts for manifold hold down. After you remove the intercooler I think you will find a few more things to disconnect. take photos of each step, if you don't need them later DELETE But if you need them now you'll be glad to have them.