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Have you tried putting it into 1st with the engine off? It should slot into 1/2 and pull out with normal force. If it's normal with the engine off and hard with it on, likely something clutch related. Maybe not releasing fully on very cold days.

Those pics look like a throttle position sensor (TPS).

You can bend it holding the metal line only. Don't hold it by the part where rubber crimps into the metal it would cause leaks, ask me how I know

not sure on newer forester's but when i had to replace the line on my 03 impreza i used some crow's foot sockets and wobble extensions to reach the nuts on the rack side. there's no direct line of sight to the area so i used a cellphone to look at the area and placed everything in by feel. for the impreza, the line that goes into the rack was below the car and ran along the crossmember before threading into the steering rack.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ball+joint+separator&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNj7rsx6DXAhVK52MKHaEHA34Q_AUIDCgD&biw=1497&bih=859 https://www.google.com/search?biw=1497&bih=859&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=L2r7WcjbGImqjwPfrL6oBw&q=bearing+puller&oq=bearing+puller&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l10.13466.15415.0.15607.14.14.0.0.0.0.146.1260.8j5.13.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.13.1257...0i67k1.0.-PS4kQ6p5Zg#imgrc=A96GtQP9J0Gg1M: maybe something like these would help

switched to koyo in 2005 when the stock one gave out. still running strong today.

i have the 1000lb one, same design but 4 wheels instead of 3. works fine for my rebuild, 750lb should be fine also. use the short transmission bolts that came out of the bellhousing to mount the engine. i'd put large washers on the bellhousing face so the steel mount tubes don't dig into the aluminum

Wait, are you talking about the seals on the transmission or the seals on the hub at the wheels. I'm thinking about the wheels...

Eww.. sounds like the hub might've pulled out a bit. At this point I'd be cobbling together a long bolt and washers to squeeze the hub back in place. Or just pick up one of those oncar bearing kits. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=on+car+bearing+kit&* Could also take the entire knuckle out, put a socket behind the inner race, and tap it back in with a hammer.

It's a split inner bearing race design for these model years. It might've come loose, just push from the back of the axle stub to get a few more threads. everything should sandwich back in place once the nut is tightened.

I had a similar problem when rebuilding a 2.5l turbo. No pressure after trying to crank for 3mins off and on. Took out the oil filter, cranked until oil flowed out of the filter area. Then put in the oil filter empty and cranked again, pressure came up almost immediately. Seems like having the oil filter filled and the pump dry would be enough to prevent the pump from priming properly. Hopefully this works out for you.

probably get a spray can of silicone lubricant with the straw nozzle and blast everything out. edit: oh you fixed it, awesome!

I've cobbled a jdm forester turbo 4.44 5mt into a USDM 03 wrx block before. Bolts right up, mine were female axle. Mine had dowel pins on the transmission and also on the engine block. Did some measurements and found it was simpler to tap out the ones on the jdm transmission and file the existing ones on the engine ever so slightly; probably not necessary. in retrospect, i should've just kept tapping in and out the dowel pin on the transmission side until the hole starts loosening up. you could probably skip all this and tighten the bolts for the last .25" if you're extra careful everything is lined up. speedo will read higher than normal but this was from a forester to an impreza.

Quote: Why wouldn't the oil filter keep the particles from doing damage to the rest of the engine? Oil filters have a relief valve that opens if there's a high enough pressure differential. It will open and bypass any filtering with cold oil or quick spurts of high revs.

Did the walbro 255 on mine, it's a longer pump than stock. I ended up using a pipe cutter and bubble flare tool to trim off about 1/4" on the assembly to make it fit. This is how it looked before trimming the pipe.

I've changed the lower portion before without dropping the rack. I remember a really hard fitting to loosen/tighten because there's no access for an open end wrench. I think I eventually got to it with a crows foot and several wobble extensions... and tape to hold things in place. It's awkward, you'll have to feel your way from the blind side. Car was 03 impreza. If I had to do it again, it would've been easier to disconnect the steering column link and drop the rack a couple inches.

The bolt didn't break off because it was seized. Chances are good you can back it out with some left hand drill bits.

if it's the smaller 5x100mm hubs, anything that fits an 06 wrx will fit on your 2006 2.5i. 2006 sti has the larger 5x114.3mm hubs and will not fit. just ask if it'll fit an 06 wrx, non-sti.

Yes, that's the one I was thinking about. The strut nut should work fine. $150 to use a wrench

Probably talking about the rear inner nut? Nothing special other than it's a locking flange nut. If the one you have is corrosion resistant it should be fine... or just paint it afterwards.

you'll likely have seized up turbo flange nuts considering how old the car is. they will round off if you're not careful. I usually use a propane torch directly to the nuts until they are slightly red. Then they'll break free with hand tools. inspect the oil inlet pipe on the turbo, they commonly to fail near the weld point after a while. you can bend it out of the way to remove the old turbo as long as you're doing it by hand and making a bend in the center of the pipe; don't use pliers. bend it back to exactly line up with the inlet hole afterwards. the oil outlet hose that connects to the bottom of the turbo should be soft and pliable. replace if it feels hard when squeezing with fingers. when installing the new turbo, as caboobaroo said, the inlet hose can rip if you're not careful. i loosen the bolt holding the intake pipe so it could slide forward a bit, then wiggle the turbo in. sometimes when working with a bigger turbo that can't be fit with wiggling alone, i loosen the uppipe brackets and remove the exhaust header. that leaves the uppipe dangling and enough clearance to wiggle the turbo onto the intake hose. look up how to prime the new turbo with oil before first start of the engine.

It doesn't sound like your son changed the uppipe yet? it's not part of the catback exhaust. To reiterate what matt167 and wtdash said, please make sure the uppipe is changed to catless before changing to a catless downpipe. If this was done already, go ahead and change out the downpipe.

i've been in cars with dss carbon fiber shafts installed. all sti 6 speed, there is a noticeable humming on all of them on light throttle at certain speeds

black metal pipe stuck to the manifold? that's part of the pcv system. that back bolt is a pain. if you look from the top, the intake manifold splits into two runners leading down into the head. i've been able to find the right mix of socket and wobbler extensions to poke in between the two intake runners and bend downwards to reach that bolt.

roll pin can be tapped out from either direction. when you put on the new axle, get a bright flashlight and shine through the roll pin hole from behind. make sure you can see a perfectly circular hole before tapping the new pin back in. if not, pull out the cup and flip it 180deg and put it back in.