nvu

Compression test would answer the bent valve question. Throw it back on the car enough so you can hook up the starter and do a compression test on it.

you can rule out clutch fork and any clutch related issues by trying to get into gears with the engine off. if it still doesn't get into gears only other thing you can check is the shift linkage. otherwise it's an internal issue with the trans

The computer has no control over the battery light. From the 2pin connector, one wire goes to the battery lamp -> fusebox -> positive rail. The other wire goes battery positive as directly as possible. If the voltage the alternator puts out is too high or too low compared to the positive rail at the fuse block , the light comes on from differential voltage. One wire should have some resistance to the positive battery. The other should have very little resistance.

Check and clean the 2pin connector carefully. Replace if needed. That connector is the sense circuit, one wire runs as directly to the battery as possible, the other goes through fuses, dash circuit, through the dash battery lamp. Oldschool subarus have a light bulb for the battery for resistance and the charging circuit depends on that. The alternator uses the voltage differential between two wires to regulate power. If the connector is dirty or wires are corroded, the extra resistance will force more voltage. Yeah and unplugging it completely disables the charging so the lights turn off. No computer involved. The light turns on if there's a big enough voltage differential. No idea how newer ones work, they have leds and digital gauges.

NGK plugs already have nickel alloy coating on them. On aluminum you can install them dry. I do. There's very little room to access the rear plugs, I usually use a plug socket -> short extension -> tiny wobbler coupling -> wobbler extension -> wrench. Outside temp sensor would be on bumper, lower opening near license plate.

Probably same as MEK around here, great for cutting oil/grease, that stuff will melt rubber and some plastics. It leaves a residue so go over everything with brake cleaner just before putting on rtv.

I'm fairly sure Aisin doesn't make the idler pulleys, esp the cogged one. Have them take a picture to confirm.

looks like it's a push in clip from the picture. i'm not sure. you have the new assembly already. cut into the black area of the old assembly until it frees up the wiring.

not sure how it would end up on a worn set, on a new set when i pushed out the hub again it was very little effort on the press, like only moderate finger pressure on the lever. no way to tell until you do it, if it binds and you have to press hard to pop it off, it's likely too late... and most of the time that's the case.

did you forget to put the outer seal in after pressing in the hub? i did one time. had to press it out and reassemble everything. not sure how long lasted, many years though. this was a new bearing.

The damper rarely fails, on a 2010 I doubt it's the culprit. You could get away with removing it completely and bridging the lines. You're describing the fuel pressure regulator, it's near the injectors and has a third port that goes to a vacuum hose. Unplug the vacuum hose while the engine is running. It should not have fuel coming out. Fuel pressure probably doesn't hold overnight, but it should hold for a couple minutes right after key off.

update: took the car with the 4.44 box out today. it does 3000ish @ 65mph and a bit over 3900 @ 80. so no idea what transmission they put in yours. it might be one of those close ratio ones for rally.

I got mine at an importer, it's from a jdm forester but not sure if turbo. I could affirm that 5th gear revs high like he's seeing. But again to the OP, the fixes are fairly involved. The 5th gear set parts were ~$200 from the dealer when I did mine around 2012. Labor might be more than that. It's working, drive it.

likely got the 4.44 trans from the forester. i have one on my impreza it does around ~3000 at 65. both trans and rear diff need to be swapped to match. not really a cheap fix, you could put on bigger tires to offset the rpms

Makes sense, looking around seems like 1-1.4oz is the norm for compact car compressors. The oil that came out was quite yellow, but transparent. The hoses and cores are new so there's no oil in them. Might as well drain out what's left in the compressor and readd with new oil too. Thanks

How much oil is in a new compressor for 02-07 era imprezas? The car is an 03 impreza. The system hasn't been working so I couldn't cycle the compressor. Almost everything except the hard lines have been replaced: -condenser/drier -evaporator -TXV -soft hoses -compressor Dumping out the old oil in the compressor, there's barely any and it's thick black. I've gotten a used compressor. Dumping the oil out of that one there's a lot more of it, but clear. Looking at the service manual doesn't show how much oil to add to the compressor.

The one behind the crankshaft never wears out, it can be reused. You'll see the cogged idler next to the water pump. All the idlers lose grease eventually, they'll probably fail eventually. You could probably limp it home if it was any smooth idler. Failure of the cogged idler usually skips timing or snaps the belt entirely. Take your time and gather the right parts. The timing belt almost never fails on these engines, and with lower revving sohc it's likely your idlers are still in good shape when 110,000 rolls around.

With the belt off, spin them. If they freewheel and sound like roller skates there's no grease left inside. The cogged idler is under the most stress and likely the first to fail.

Here's a video for the impreza, different car, same engine. The plugs are a pain to get to, have a look and decide for yourself.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-4AT-4WD-Limited/_54102_6024341/EXHAUST-EXHAUST-COVER-06MY-/B13-440-10.html There's a gasket 3" away from the rear o2 sensor. 44184. It doesn't look like the older donut style that tends to leak though. I tried https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+2009+legacy+p0420, only thing that sounds plausible is cleaning the maf.

no lean code means the front o2 sensor is happy with the air coming out the engine. p420 is when that air goes through the cat and hits the rear o2 sensor. the engine is fine, the ecu is not happy with the air coming out the cat. exhaust gaskets, bad o2, bad cat. nothing to do with intakes

If it's not hard metal clacking chances are it might be a failing tensioner. Take the covers off again and do the prybar trick to test.

you've already removed the oil pan and pickup tube? it should lie flat, normal upright position on the table. if there's not enough leverage, put it on a carpet floor and step on it as you unbolt.

Was there much rust when you did the balljoints? If those came out easy the bearings would come out easy also. Get the press kit, unhook the ball joint and you'd have enough room to do it on car. I like to also unhook the tie rod to get even more access. Make sure you find and remove the snapring.

$100 sounds too steep. Do you have autostores that rent tools nearby? A bearing installer kit is all you need, probably under $100 to buy one outright. https://www.google.com/search?q=bearing+installer+kit There's also a snapring hidden under all that grease, be sure to remove it before pressing.