nvu

Oh wow, now something new to worry about.

Was browsing youtube and came across videos about this. Didn't realize counterfeit ngk plugs were a thing. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=counterfeit+ngk+spark+plugs There's a lot to process but hope it helps someone in the future.

On my 98 impreza outback sport, it came with a "subaru factory alarm" sticker on the window. The keyfob had the subaru logo. But taking things apart it looked like a generic code-alarm unit. It was wiretapped into the harness, no plugs on the car. There was a subaru security booklet that came with the car. I bought the car used sometime in 2017. Guessing subaru rebadged the code-alarm units as a dealer installed option back in the day.

Maybe it's not brakes but balljoints or some other suspension bits? Could be that braking puts load on the suspension and stops the rattling. Oh just saw the part where you found some caliper play by hand. Could be a worn wheel bearing causing pad knockback as the rotor wobbles when you go through bumps.

The hose blew before. If you take that into account, ~25% yes and 75% other possible factors lead to it. Likely system was already clogged and the hose was the fuse. If the hose didn't blow and the system was low on refrigerant and all they had to do was add more. 75% yes it's likely overcharged.

Easier to tighten the support bolts in the air. Leave the big nut for last.

It's conical and not press fit, but likely be seized in there. Simplest way is undo the cotter pin and knock it out with a pickle fork. The oem front-rear bushing has the rubber fused to the outer casing and the center pin. The rubber is not solid and has some empty chambers. The center pin does not rotate freely, but does have some give. Over rotating it either way would eventually rip the rubber. This is for oem style bushings, aftermarket poly ones do rotate in the center and don't care how you tighten them. That reminds me, the captive nuts in the frame, if you're in a rust area those like to crossthread when you're tightening. Blow out the holes and run the bolts in and out of the frame to make sure they're smooth before attaching everything.

1. It's safer to pop out the lower ball joint and remove tension from the LCA. It could be done without this step, but you're going to need another jack and/or prybar to line things up. 2. If you popped out the ball joint, you can just unbolt the rear bushing and not worry about anything popping in tension. Unhooking the swaybar endlink would give you more room to work if necessary. 3. Scribe the line and copy it to the new bushing if you intend to final torque the big bolt with the car in the air. Or you could snug up the bolt, lower the car to the ground, then final torque it there.

You could, though depending on the led and resistor picked, it may not light up at all if there's a fault or light up all the time when there's no fault. It might not detect the case of the alternator sending overvoltage as the led doesn't light up in reverse current situations.

Nope not for $1500. You'll need intake, exhaust manifold, nonturbo computer with immobilizer key, engine wiring harness, likely rip out the dash to get wiring done.

Guessing it was making burning smells before? If it did and only the disc was replaced, chances are the flywheel and clutch cover are uneven. You might be experiencing clutch chatter. Maybe it's uneven clutch material from the prev clutch, and would go away over time. The viscous coupling portion could be completely failed and you'd never notice it in straight line. It doesn't cause the issues you're seeing even if failed and you can still drive it. Center diff/visc coupling can be checked by driving in figure 8's, a worn one will feel like it grabs with tension then lets go over and over. If the center diff portion starts failing, you'll hear an awful noise and likely lock all 4 wheels when it completely fails. My 98 outback sport has chatter only when inching along in stop and go freeway traffic and things heat up. To get going from a stop, I blip the pedal to 2k and release the clutch as the rpms falls, gets it going with no chatter. Press the throttle again once the car starts moving. It's a smaller car with a cable clutch so it's all or nothing when it comes to grab point range.

it shouldn't be any more than 13 or so psi since the radiator cap should release into the bottle. check if there's a blockage on the cap? I've seen caps that have the rubber part expand over time and jam the relief valve mechanism from opening.

Sounds bad, it'll need to be torn down anyways. Plan on removing the pistons and cleaning out the ring grooves. It's a turbo, if you see heavy varnish inside the heads chances are the rings are gunked up too.

EJ253 will have an open deck. EJ255/257 will have semiclosed decks. The piston tops are different between the three.

you did the ej22 already so most things are the same, here are the differences: ej205's came with plastic cam pulleys, also the cam bolts need allen key's. they are a pain most of the time, look up some videos on how people get them off beforehand. I've removed rounded off bolts with a bolt extractor. can't heat the ones with plastic cams without weakening them. not much you can do with the turbo. check for turbo shaft play when it's off, the exhaust housing likes to crack around the wastegate port. it's safe to continue to run it if it still seals, just not optimal. crank bolt is on much tighter than ej22, 133ftlb instead of 95 in the ej22. if you don't have the crank holder tool loosen it with the engine in the car and someone standing on brakes in gear. headbolts are reusable if not corroded. wipe off and clean lightly, no wire wheel. if there's no corrosion it's safe to reuse. consider reringing the pistons since you're already in there

Nothing cleans catalytic converters directly. Probably injector cleaner rebadged to say catalytic system cleaner. It does too little to work and you'd get better results cleaning the intake valves with seafoam.

Guessing the mating surfaces aren't flat anymore. Next time you do an oil change, lay the old washer on the table. It should be completely flat and uniform. I've seen weirdly deformed ones where the center hole is no longer round. If the pan was still good, the crush washer eventually flattens down to look like a regular washer.

Been reusing mine for 10 or so years now. It's a washer.

I agree with ido, leave it as it is. at this point, changing it might cause more leaking. we don't know if stopleak had been tried on it before; likely yes. note on "stopleak" type products, they contain chemicals that soften and expand nitrile orings. use them once to see if it helps, if you keep using more eventually the orings will turn into a gummy mess.

if you haven't touched the axle nut, likely the dust shield rubbing on the new rotor. pretty common on subarus with disc rears. you can bend it away or grind a bit of it off. or just run with it until the noise goes away.

Why not a bluetooth to fm adapter that plugs in the lighter? Some even have aux input. https://www.google.com/search?q=bluetooth+fm+adapter+car+aux

more importantly, get into the habit of checking your oil level when you get gas. these engines tend to burn oil when they get older. you want to know if it's something troubling like having to add 1qt of oil every fillup. if doesn't burn more than 1/2qt between 3000mi oil changes, you have piece of mind and can check less often. it's game over when you see that oil light on your dash. betting your mechanic friend would have plenty of horror stories on this.

Try spinning the wheel with one hand and grabbing on the shock spring with the other hand. It's easier to do with both tires off the ground. My guess is something wrong with the bearing causes the tonewheel to rub on the knuckle. It's probably disintegrated enough to not make noise unless braking.

more importantly, why is it groaning. if it's not brakes related it's probably a failing bearing or loose axle nut. figure out the groaning issue first, remove the abs sensor from the hub see if it stops groaning