nvu

I've disassembled outer joints by holding the entire shaft vertical, outer joint pointing up. Smack it down on a wooden workbench where the cup catches the edge and the weight of the rest of the shaft pulls it out of the c clip. Even easier if you have a V corner workbench. Also... mind where your toes are.

Grease or oil up the inside where it meets the shaft. Lightly grease or oil the outside so it doesn't pinch while going in. I prefer pressing as hard as possible by hand until it's centered, tap until flush with the head. I had an older ej22 head with a chamfered hole on the driver side. In this case, using the old seal flipped around would allow me to push the new seal further in. Don't bottom it out, the goal is to push the seal in just enough so the outer area makes full contact in the metal hole and holds tight. Oh the snout with the oring, silicone grease or oil is ok.

No fuel filter, clogged injectors.

The screw with the gear teeth should be the adjustment screw. If it does nothing, someone turned it too much and broke the plastic gears inside.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2001_Legacy-Outback-Wagon-30L-AT-4WD/_51505_6029304/ROOF-RAIL-ROOF-SLATS/B12-922-02.html are these it? looks more than just glue.

Get it fixed, the tires will wear unevenly. Also check if you have directional tires, not only is there an inside/outside to those, but also a directional rotation arrow. Those would come in sets with 2 left and right sides.

no, the stud pattern is 5 x 100mm if I recall. 4.5" would be 114mm

Hi again, from my previous post, I have a 98 obs with a bad shortblock. The plan was to look around on car-part and visit the local yards for a complete EJ22 but so far that's been turning up empty. I do see a lot of EJ18 SOHC's around, that seems a little too small for an awd wagon. Still searching for the EJ22 in the meantime. Are there other engines that will work with the 98 OBS ECU? The other option is refreshing the heads and putting another shortblock on. I have one from an EJ257, the heads are the EJ22 with external headbolts, single port. Will this combo work with current ECU? This is a california car so the ecu needs to remain original for smog.

> Can it really just be unbolted with control arm left on car? It can, I'd remove the ball joint from the knuckle to relieve spring pressure. Then just the rear bushing can be undone and replaced by hand. Otherwise you might need to use a jack to push things back up to bolt them in. Loosen the big nut while it's in the car if you don't have an impact wrench. Ideally you want to tighten the big nut last while the car is sitting on the ground. I don't, it's been fine.

Thanks for the answers. I'll be looking for ej22's then. Are head gaskets a problem with these? I'd plan to buy locally at a place with warranty and drop the engine in as is.

I've recently acquired a 98 impreza outback sport that had an oil leak. After tearing down the engine it looks like the block is unusable, no threads on one headbolt hole, cracked into water or oil area. Opposite head bolt snapped off, looks like they put some type of dry powder in it to stop leaks. One head has very discolored exhaust valves. It might be okay, but at this point I'm cutting my losses and looking to put in another engine. The original one looks like an EJ22 MAF version, no EGR. Heads are external headbolts, single port exhaust. Has the newer style tensioner on the block. There's a local place which stocks jdm EJ20 sohc engines and I'm wondering if these would work. They all seem to be the internal headbolts heads. Will these newer ones work?

I use roll pin method on my impreza and can wedge out the axle without needing to take apart any suspension components. Pretty sure that wouldn't be possible with the stub method. Also you won't spill gear oil all over if you leave the stubs in. Pins are easy to get to on the impreza, not sure how much access there is under a legacy though.

Need to weld center diff or replace with a spool locker https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+rwd+spool

Have you tried putting it into 1st with the engine off? It should slot into 1/2 and pull out with normal force. If it's normal with the engine off and hard with it on, likely something clutch related. Maybe not releasing fully on very cold days.

Those pics look like a throttle position sensor (TPS).

You can bend it holding the metal line only. Don't hold it by the part where rubber crimps into the metal it would cause leaks, ask me how I know

not sure on newer forester's but when i had to replace the line on my 03 impreza i used some crow's foot sockets and wobble extensions to reach the nuts on the rack side. there's no direct line of sight to the area so i used a cellphone to look at the area and placed everything in by feel. for the impreza, the line that goes into the rack was below the car and ran along the crossmember before threading into the steering rack.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ball+joint+separator&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNj7rsx6DXAhVK52MKHaEHA34Q_AUIDCgD&biw=1497&bih=859 https://www.google.com/search?biw=1497&bih=859&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=L2r7WcjbGImqjwPfrL6oBw&q=bearing+puller&oq=bearing+puller&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l10.13466.15415.0.15607.14.14.0.0.0.0.146.1260.8j5.13.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.13.1257...0i67k1.0.-PS4kQ6p5Zg#imgrc=A96GtQP9J0Gg1M: maybe something like these would help

switched to koyo in 2005 when the stock one gave out. still running strong today.

i have the 1000lb one, same design but 4 wheels instead of 3. works fine for my rebuild, 750lb should be fine also. use the short transmission bolts that came out of the bellhousing to mount the engine. i'd put large washers on the bellhousing face so the steel mount tubes don't dig into the aluminum

Wait, are you talking about the seals on the transmission or the seals on the hub at the wheels. I'm thinking about the wheels...

Eww.. sounds like the hub might've pulled out a bit. At this point I'd be cobbling together a long bolt and washers to squeeze the hub back in place. Or just pick up one of those oncar bearing kits. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=on+car+bearing+kit&* Could also take the entire knuckle out, put a socket behind the inner race, and tap it back in with a hammer.

It's a split inner bearing race design for these model years. It might've come loose, just push from the back of the axle stub to get a few more threads. everything should sandwich back in place once the nut is tightened.

I had a similar problem when rebuilding a 2.5l turbo. No pressure after trying to crank for 3mins off and on. Took out the oil filter, cranked until oil flowed out of the filter area. Then put in the oil filter empty and cranked again, pressure came up almost immediately. Seems like having the oil filter filled and the pump dry would be enough to prevent the pump from priming properly. Hopefully this works out for you.

probably get a spray can of silicone lubricant with the straw nozzle and blast everything out. edit: oh you fixed it, awesome!