LPGsuperchargedBrumby

that looks like the cavemans Justy......and someone apperently stole a cylinder off him as well

yeah it is an ea82 panel it looks the same physicaly and the speedo drive in the back looks the same so im hopeing it fits, otherwise im going to have to find another ea81 instrument panel or speedo unit

well i hope it fits and all works like its meant to i'm hopeing the subaru lego ability stretchs to the instruments

my speedo is working casually...as in it reads when it feels like it but my odometer is working fine so i know that the cable is ok. what i want to know is will a instrument panel out of a '85 leone fit and will it all hookup? it also has a tach which i don't have, even though my ute is a GL . do all brumby/brats have everything needed to drive the tach?

hmmmm if i made them the same length as TWE's to where they join it would be a good start tho' wouldn't it?

what is the tuned length of the headers for a ea82t? i've come to the conclusion that im going to have to make a new set of headers when i swap the ea82t into the brumby but i wanna take them under the engine crossmember(a' la N/A style) (so i don't have to cut a channel in the crossmember for the header to pass through), then take it up to the 'hair dryer'. i haven't measured whether there is enough room for the up and down pipes yet but the less i can get away with modd'ing the chasses and crossmembers, the happier the guy im getting to certify the engine swap will be. as i'll be making the header i thought having a bash at a tuned length sounded like a good idea anyone with TWE headers care to give some lengths and diameters?

i've aways gap'd my plugs to 40 tho' and have never had a problem with'em

try taking the turbo off any diesel and see what happens......it loses power and blows black smoke , to run a turbo diesel without a turbo you haveto cut the diesel pump back to stop it wasting fuel more boost=more air more air=more fuel can be burnt more fuel=more power more power means less throttle needs to be use... saving fuel the reduced extra fuel use returns you to the same fuel consumption per hp (roughly) as a N/A motor while leaving the extra power in reserve

my speedometer has just started doing a similar thing in the last couple of days. it raises up really slowly and gos down at the same rate which mean when i pull to a halt its still reading 30kmh or so im going to pull the dash and try some graffit powder inside to see if that helps

one thing i havent seen referred to here is the wiring for the safety fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line between the tank and the regulator. It needs to be wired so it is only open when the ignition coil is firing i.e when the motor is actually running so if you have a crash you don't have lpg floating around

well i had never heard of an XT6 untill i got onto a website the had some guy stashing one in a lifted brat(didn't know you could do that either) the only subarus iv'e seen here with an XT designation are XT-Turbo stationwagons (leone/loyal) so you guys got some cooler stuff than us

its supposed to have cork on it? my one had a rubber seal doing the job. it looks like the opening behind it is straight into the sump, so there shouldn't be any pressure on there at all? if so then i'll just use silicone to seal it...if there is pressure then i'll have to get a bit more serious.

first of all your standard rims are 13 inch not 14 so you'll need to get new wheels fabricated to take 205r14 60 tyres. second i paid $144 for a full head set of gaskets about 3 months ago, the full gasket set was $260 (i didn't get it as i didn't need it) frnt and rear crank seals $13 rear $5 front std turbo pistons where quoted @ $180 with chrome rings i got moly rings for $125 if i remember right Bowden Engine Parts is where i get all my bits from email conrodchris@quicksilver.net.nz this guy can get the goods at bloody amazing prices

back in the day (...70's) dad worked in a engineering shop in england and had a guy come in to have a 1/2" alloy plate bolted onto the underside of his porche 911 for rallying, then had to keep coming back to have it straightend after he'd hit things with it

i've got two filters on my'n 1 down by the fuel pump and 1 under the bonnet the one beside the fuel pump has two lines on it at 90 deg's the one under the bonnet has three lines onto it one straight in the top and two out the side at the bottom at about 30 deg's

bumb anyone?

anyone know what FRAM or any other fuel filters fit a brumby/brat my other brumby has an intermitant fuel flow problem, it will start then die almost immediatly, sometimes 8 or 10 times one after the other, only does it when cold. im thinking that i have a suspect pump but want to cover all other likely possibiltys before i shell out for a new pump i've looked in the FRAM book at my local autoparts and it doesn't list any filters for a brumby(doesn't list a brumby at all...) and i couldn't even find a ea81 refered to under subaru (did find the ea71 listed on several tho)

as far as i know everything post '85 as hydraulic lifters

as long as you have coolant running through your regulator it will work as even cold liquid coolant is warmer than -44f . i have seen a regulator freeze up due the coolant hoses supplying it being too restrictive (kinked hose) however it was only at high fuel demand that it froze up as there was enough coolant getting through to start and run up to medium rpms sustained high rpms required more heat than the reduced amount of coolant could supply (caused rather alot of head scratching did that little kink)

ea81 with hydraulic lifters New Zealand brumbys don't has the ERG emissions control systems crap that the US brats do my brumby is a '92 as well

i have no idea how it would run an that temperature or lack of.... hmmmm thinking about it they run alot of lpg cars in like norway and up round there i think, and alot of vehicals in europe run it and some places up in the north of there must get down to close to that temperature so there must be ways to get around it if it causes problems

there are any number of generic writeups on how to install lpg. i tee'd into the heater hoses to get the heating water to the regulator and mounted the regulator on a bracket where the spare wheel would normally live, spare now lives in the tray. carburation is currently handled by a ABER propane carburetor with dual 34mm throttle butterflys, more than that about the carb i don't know as i picked it up secondhand but it seems to be similar in operation to an impco type mixer LPG MPG is normally about 10-15% more fuel used than on petrol@ standard compression ratio, however a 12.5 to 1 compression will get 10-15% better fuel economy than a petrol that is still at standard comp ratio lpg will tolerate roughly the same compression ratio as methenol if you can get a lambda lpg control valve system fuel usage can be cut by upto 25% but normally about 10-15% lpg tanks have a cut-off valve that won't aloow them to fill to more than 80% so that there is room for the fuel to expand if the tank gets warm

dual fuel works but you get a drop in fuel efficiancy (and power!) due to the restriction of the extra ventury i.e the propane mixer ring dedicated lpg propane is definatly the way to go

check these out http://www.prachapter34.com/converting_engines.htm Converting Auto Engines for Aircraft ej22 with a ford escort dizzy onboard and a holly twin barrel

well that why all our medical meat wagons have a big vacuum cleaner onboard....it does away with the back breaking mop work (Occupational health and safety you know.....)