TheSubaruJunkie

Chevy Luv have a 6 bolt pattern and 14" rims. Its what I used. For mud terrains, good luck. There are not many available anymore.

If your a machinist, then you should have everything needed to perform the 6 lug. And if you are looking for larger rims & Tires its the easiest & cheapest way to find 14" rims. Your body style is a Gen1 and you must search for a Gen1 lift. No matter what the engine or headlight configuration. Like mentioned before, the rear of the Gen1 chassi is different than the Gen2, and that is where things get complicated. People have swapped a Gen2 rear torsion bar into a Gen1 brat to solve the problem, but the Gen2's are wider and the rear will look alittle goofy with a wider track. 2" or 3" of lift should be plenty to clear some larger tires. You wont be running 28" swampers or anything... unless you like cutting sheet metal.

I think he wanted pix of My 4Runner

EA71 is the engine code for your car. EA81 is the 1800cc bigger brother. The engines were available in Subaru's from 1977 till 1984. In 1985 they introduced the EA82 which is 1800cc like the EA81, but OHC. The body style also changed in 1985. When we mention a "EA car" its usually refferencing the older generation. Since the new generation (Legacy, Impreza, Forester) all use engines with the EJ code (EJ18, EJ20, EJ22, EJ25).

alot of people, even lift manufacturers, have had trouble finding and developing a kit for the Gen1 Subarus (1977 to 1980 & 1981 Brats) Something with the rear end being different.

Yeah JB & I took care of this a couple years ago. I can't remember how we finally did it. But that swap has been done, and even pulled and placed in another brat by now Still some real good info floating around in this thread.

I haven't got it just yet. But I have a friend who's selling a 4 runner and I am probably going to buy it when I sell my Legacy.

What kind of yota? I think my '84 pickup has a body lift that Im not transfering over to the 4runner. Not sure if it will work or not. This sunday im probably going to be busy, next sunday I dont know about.

HE's right, i stand corrected.

The 1980 Brat came with a 1800 EA81. Same old body style of the '77, '78, '79... but the only gen1 Brat offered with a EA81.

Sweet, Make you guys come down here for a change My garage is about to turn into a Toyota Scrapshop here for alittle while.

This comming from a guy who just turned a Brat for nearly $3k... They are worth what somebody is willing to pay for them. I've never sold one for more than $175... but Ive never paid more than $30 for one.

The best place to learn about STi's is NASIOC.

I was just looking over the two craigslist ad's and the 81 looks like it has some blemishes on the hood and drivers side fender. The '84 just looks like the hood is mis-matched. The price difference isnt worth the time and trouble you'll invest in trying to get it passed smog. +1 vote for the '84

As I said before, your biggest concern should be the smog issue. Unless you plan on a EJ Swap. If The '84 is smogged, i would vote for it. But the '81 sure does look like it's in good condition.

My Schedule is Tues & Wednesday, Friday & Saturday. So I get Sunday, MOnday & Thursday off.

The Brat I found on Craigslist, and it turns out it was from an Old Board member, Will Smith. The exterior is in great shape, but he did alot of body work to it. Its actually two cars welded together. The front half is from a 1983 GL10 Wagon, and the rear is from a Brat. You couldn't tell unless I pointed out the welds (which can only be seen from inside the car). It runs great and even passed smog. I got it for $500 cause it needed a tranny. After I replaced the tranny, we found out it had the incorrect throw-out bearing all along. Now Im weeding through a handfull of wiring problems from his swap. It has power windows, mirrors and all the options a GL10 would have... but it looks like he converted from a digital dash to analog and its a real mess in there.

Well the brat runs and drives great, but its just a bunch of wiring problems that need to be sorted out. Unfortunatly, it looks like i will need a new wiring harness & dashboard, so as soon as I have those parts I can resume working on it. It's still my daily driver for the time being. Whats this project you're planning on picking up??

Hey man. Yeah im still around, and even tho I wheel a Toyota, I still daily drive a Subaru. My newest to the collection is a 1983 Brat. I tried to organize a meet up in the Tahoe area, but that kinda fell through. My Brat needs more work than I originally thought, and I can't rely on it to get me to Tahoe & back under its own power. A local meet tho, that can probably be arranged.

Doesnt look like any Pug I've ever seen. Definatly looks good though. I wonder how much per wheel?

To let your mind at ease, you could perform a compression test afterwards. That will tell you for sure if there is any terminal damage.

We do that here at work when installing bushings on excavators and stuff. We freeze the bushings over night, and prior to installation we torch the area recieving the bushings. It does make a difference, however... i dont want to see you burn your house down.

It may affect it a tad, but if it were hot enough to damage the engine, the needle would be far into the red zone.

If the temp gauge didn't peg in the red, than you should be okay.

Tap evenly around the outter race of the bearing. You cannot drive the bearing through the hub, you have to tap it out from the inside. Between each bearing is a spacer, which makes things alittle difficult. Once the first bearing is out, the spacer can be removed and the second bearing is easier to get out. If you tap using the inner race, it will break free and you will have a broken bearing stuck in the hub, and can make things alittle more difficult. !!EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!! When you are installing the new bearings. DO NOT tap or impact the inner race of the bearing. You must drive the bearing into the hub by the outter race. If you impact the inner race you risk damaging the bearing. It doesnt take much force at all to damage the bearing. Alittle grease on the walls of the hub and the outside of the bearing will make things go alittle easier. Once you get the bearing started, it will go in fairly easily. The problem is getting it started. Its an extremely tight fit. Its frustrating. If you start to lose your temper, its best to walk away and come back. The center of the hub has a raised portion which the bearings sit against. You tap the bearing all the way into the hub until it hits and sits evenly on this raised portion. Before you install the second bearing, make sure you have your spacer installed... and a good amount of grease between the two never hurts.