TheSubaruJunkie

THat one is great!

Yeah I wouldnt do it either. I have heard of others doing it. Its been a long time. I only know about the brake pad thing because I once owned a EA82 that came with EA81 wagon wheels on it. They worked fine, but then I did a brake job and once I replaced the pads the wheels wouldnt move.

They will clear if: a) your brake pads are worn down really really far... you grind off alittle of your brake caliper. Other than that, no.

My buddy & I planned a trip to do some wheelin this weekend. We spent the last week putting a Dana 44 and 14bolt into his Toyota. I had my gears in, swampers on, and I was ready to rock! We planned on leaving Saturday around 5pm, and returning monday afternoon. Saturday came and his truck still didn't have any steering. We were installing a full hydraulic setup, and spent a good amount of time trying to adapt the toyota steering linkage to the orbital valve. After some welding, cutting, prying and cursing we finally got it. Then we found out the front driveshaft he made wouldnt work, and had to find a replacement. By 8pm Saturday, his truck was ready to load, and we set off. Our plans were to goto the Wentworth Springs campground, near the Rubicon Trail. We knew the street would be unpaved, and it would be a purely snow-wheelin trip. Around midnight we made it to the end of the plowed section, and decided to setup camp there, and wheel in the morning. Camp, night #1: Here is my truck, loaded and ready to go: The gears in my truck worked great! I was able to cruise along in 3rd low and it was about as slow as his truck in 1st low. He has 5.38's in his diff's, I have 4.88's. But his t-case is the stock 2.28 low range vs. my now 4.70:1 transfercase. My buddies truck had alittle trouble with the steering. His orbital valve was failing, we're not sure if it was overheating or if there is an actual malfunction. We would stop and cool the valve with a block of snow, and it would resume operation... and we would press on. We made it a good 3.5 miles in without much trouble. By now it was almost 3pm and the sun was high, it had to be at least 65 outside, and the snow was getting soft. Even with the swampers aired down to 9psi, i had trouble staying ontop of the snow. And after a pretty nasty incline, i found myself stuck and in need of some help. Luckily, my buddies winch worked... and we set off winching my truck up, 75' at a time: We fought this hill for almost an hour. There was a pretty good clearing in the woods next to us, and we decided it would be best if we took this opportunity to setup camp, build a fire and get things setup before the sun started to set. My truck was not completely unstuck, I had managed to back myself into a ditch and could not climb out. I figured I would leave the truck where it was and unload all my gear (and the hundreds of pounds of firewood I was carrying) and try to get out in the morning. Camp, Night #2: The next morning, I woke up and it had gotten cold enough to freeze overnight. Our water jug was frozen over, along with some left-over water and drinks we had out. I knew it would be easier to get the truck out with the snow iced over, and without any gear in it. With the help of my friend spotting me, we picked a few choice lines and was able to drive the truck out of the ditch and back onto the trail... So we packed up camp, and got a late start back to the tow rig. We ended up leaving camp around Noon, when the sun was getting up there. The snow was soft, but it was all downhill back to the rig. We didn't make it half a mile before my buddy warned me over the CB he was spewing steering fluid everywhere. So I stopped to wait for him and when he caught up we realized he blew the pressure line from his pump to the orbital valve and lost all steering. We had plenty of spare fluid, but no extra hydraulic line, or anyway to fix the one he had blown. So slowly, we had to drive his truck the 3 miles back with no steering. One of us had to stay outside and kick the front tires when they would steer off track. If we were in a good set of ruts, it was no problem. But there were sections where there were no ruts, and it was a pain in the rump roast. 8 hours later, we made it the 3 miles back and by 8pm we were loaded up and ready to head home. It was an adventure, one we were expecting, but could have been better planned for. Now we have a few more items to add to our list of recovery gear. I have alot more pictures I didn't post here... you can find them in my album: http://photos.bydemons.com/v/4runner/snow2/ Alot of scenery shots and some other pix of our rigs together in the snow. I also got alittle video as well: My 4.7 gears doing what they do best: My buddies truck driving to camp #2: I think im done snow wheelin'. I can't wait to get back out on the rocks!

My tires do not rub on the springs, but I have also not tried turning with them full locked either. Right now, the steering stops are bent and I could easily destroy my birfs if I tried to turn too far. This is something I have been meaning to fix, but for now I just limit the amount of turning radius I do.

Let me know how that aussie locker works out for you. I was thinking of getting one for the front of the 4Runner. Glad to see some progress being made.

Needs bigger rocks. But still pretty badass.

Thats a sweet lookin rig man. Too bad you have to sell it.

Finally got the axle back together and the truck driving again. I picked up some used 35" Swampers. They are 35x14.5. Still plenty of life left in them, i think they look way better than the pro-comps I had on there before. Cant wait to test them out. Also installed a new drivers side fender. Waiting to find a good deal on a new hood.

On a hatchback, the rear wheel fenders are right where the rear seats are. This means the rear bench isn't as wide as a wagons rear bench. It could probably be done, but would look kinda goofy.

Very nice. I wanna see some poser shots of the flex!! Got a forklift or an engine hoist nearby??

NAPA Part# 7825316 http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(frpfhg55urercf554ineir55))/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7825316_0229622982 I used one in my Toyota for wiring lights and accessories. Cheap and local.

Some very impressive work!!! What else comes out of that shop of yours???

First one is fake. Last 3 are classics.

I would just have your friend, who destroyed the tire in the first place, replace it.

Yup, all old school 4 lug wheels are 4x140. If they were 4x100 we would have no trouble finding rims at all.

Yeah but subaru's are 140mm, which i didn't see listed.

I would like to see pix of this as well.

People have made a tool to pull the axle through the hub & Bearings. I myself just re-install the rotor assembly and use the nut to pull it through.

An adapter plate wont help you much because it wont change the location of the starter. For more answers toward your locking diff question, I would recommend you check out the off-road forum. The guys there have been throwing around idea's for locking front diffs, but none of them are cost effective. If I remember correctly, the single range & dual range tranny's are the same length. I have heard of people converting to dual range without needing to change their drivelines.

I do not know of any adapter. The two major differences are the bell housing and where the starter mounts. Dual range transmissions have the starter mounted on the drivers side of the transmission, whereas single range 1600cc transmissions have them mounted in the center. Ofcourse, the bellhousing for the motors must match the transmission. In all honesty, it wouldn't be much more expensive to find a parts car from 1981 to 1984 and get the engine/trans from that. But i understand where you are comming from, having the parts from the '76 and all. Is locking diffs & Dual range truely necessary?? Are you going to be wheeling this thing or just rallying it? Rear LSD's exist. Matching them to the transmission's ratio is the only problem.

First thing first... do you plan on keeping this a rear engine bug? If so, how do you plan on getting the tires to spin in the correct direction. Second. If you are looking for a LSD for the transmission itself, you have two choices: Spend about a whole TON of money on R&D or Stop looking cause they don't exist. If you want a LSD for the rear diff, they are out there. However, if you're keeping this a rear engine vehicle, your rear diff will now be your front diff and a LSD up front isnt a good idea.

Would love to. Right now the truck is still sitting in my garage. It hasn't moved in weeks. Im in the process of re-assembling the front axle.

Mine isnt super clean at all. The prev. owner rolled it and the roof looks like a piece of construction paper. I scored another drivers fender off ebay cheap, red too! I went to put it on last night, and the front drivers corner is smashed pretty well. The entire body support is about 2" lower than it should be and i had to do some pretty extensive body work to get it to fit right. Next is the hood.

SICK!!! Going to have to have a brat meet sometimes soon.