TheSubaruJunkie

Dude im in love with that amp!! Is it powered or does it need an amp? You'll have to report back on how well it does. My Brat needs one! Also, I need to do Targa stripes on my Brat as well, so I will be paying close attention to how good yours turns out. Are you planning on installing them yourself?

Jibs I remember when We did this... at your sisters place Jerrys kit made the job painless. Its really worth every penny!

!!!!NO!!!!! What will most likely happen, the strut will start to take the weight of the vehicle and pull it off the jack, as soon as the jack is away from the car, the strut & wheel will move away from the car. If you are lucky, it will not fall on you. But most definatly the CV joint will be ripped apart. This happend to me once when the bolt holding the lower ball joint dissapeared, and as soon as I hit a bump it came out of the knuckle... everything after that was all bad. If I am following this thread correctly, you now have your 2" lift blocks ontop of the struts... the struts are bolted in place. The brake & hub assembly is only being supported by the steering knuckle & CV Joint. And You are trying to re-install your lower control arms?? Did these blocks not come with directions or installation instructions? P.S. How did you remove the knuckle side of the lower control arm?? Did you remove the balljoint from the knuckle? or did you remove it from the control arm? If you haven't already, goto Napa and get new balljoints. They are cheap, like $14 or something.

No, you're right. I apologize. You do not want to make any adjustments to your tie rod ends. This will do nothing to help your caster/camber adjustments. This is solely steering alignment and if you start toying with it, you're paying a shop to fix it. If your lower control arms are still not installed, then your camber/caster/toe in/out makes no difference. Also... Front CV joints seperate by Hyper extending. This just pulls the shaft and bearings apart from the cup. If it does happen either end may or may not spin independently, it depends on how severe the seperation is. And last, but not least... If you are installing strut top blocks, but not lowering the engine crossmember as well, then you can expect to have a TON of caster/camber problems.

IT IS PAINFULLY OBVIOUS THIS TASK IS WAY ABOVE YOUR HEAD I am not even going to waste my time trying to correct you.

How much are brand new springs for a 30 year old car?

I know right!!! These are some of the most beautiful Subaru's I have seen. WoW!!

Wow, nevermind my previous post man. You just created like... a weeks worth of work there. You are already past the point of no return, the information I posted above is useless to you now. For future refference maybe...

You are way overthinking this whole process dude. Lift the car into the air, undo the strut bolts. Support the vehicle with stands, place jack under the engine crossmember. Remove the bolts holding the crossmember to the frame, lower the engine crossmember 2 or 3" That should give you plenty of room to install your strut blocks. -OR- Remove the bolts holding the strut to the lower control arm (before ever unbolting the strut tops). With the strut top still bolted to the body, and the lower bolts undone from the steering knuckle/lower control arm.... use a prybar (or some bodywieght) and force the lower control arm down, this will remove the bottom of the strut from the steering knuckle.. Now unbolt the strut top and let the strut fall out. However, if you are installing a lift, you will still need to unbolt the engine crossmember to make room for the reinstallation. Unless you want to spend an entire weekend fighting with it

All I do is pull the manifold, then walk away. Come back in 30min and all the coolant had drained to the propper level, and evaporated. Either that, or just pull the radiator. Sooner or later, all the coolant will be gone Better hope that hose doesnt get too close to your exhaust. I imagine if you sprung a leak in any of those hoses, it wouldnt take but a half a mile for every last bit of your coolant to drain out.

Thats probably the first time anyone on this side of the Atlantic has seen that thing.

Spinning is bad. Crawling is the name of the game

Are you painting your chrome bed trim along with the topper & body?

In the wheeling world, its best to have your front locked and your rear open if you had to pick only one. This is for technical, low speed crawling or obsticles. Pros: The tires with the most weight over them, has the most traction & pull you over obsticles. Cons: Steering is going to be a ***************.

Let me know what kind of help you need, you know im willin to help. Just sucks sometimes makin that drive to reno and back. Expecially when tow trucks have to bring me home.

Not sure, maybe with enough straps.

Well okay.. guess last weekend didnt work out as planned. JB. I need to make my way up there anyhow. its been too long and the 4Runner is bugging me about the Moonrocks. I have some things I need to deliver to Greenley as well.

PSI is one thing. CFM is another. (cubic foot per/min) CFM is what we are after. Sure you can get that $35 pump to build up to 120 psi (mine will do it too). It just takes forever to do so. Its because the volume of air it is able to pump diminishes the higher the compression gets. I paid $90 for my pump (has a nifty bag too) and i believe it pumps at 1.1 CFM at 0psi. But once it reaches near 30psi it is only pumping at .7 CFM, and if it were to ever reach 100psi, it would be close to .3cfm I think when I was doing some research on the Yorks they can pump something like 3.3 CFM at 50psi and that is depending on the RPM given to the pump.

Looks nice. Is it rated to carry combustibles and aerosols?

I have been slowly building all the pieces I need. I have $0.00 invested so far, and I have a 5gal tank (two 2.5gal tanks side-by-side). All the hose & fittings I should ever need. Including a 1 - 100 psi guage for mounting pretty much anywhere. Also a few switches that are pressure controlled to do some cool things with Just gotta find me a good york on the cheap, and make the brackets.

Glad to hear its still alive and keeping people happy. You should do some reading and learn how turbo's operate, what keep turbo engines happy. Subaru's make great first cars, however, the EA82T has gotten a bad wrap by even the most experienced Subaru techs on here. There is also a ton of subaru specific documentation around here that will help you. Hint: Search for HTKYSA.pdf (How to keep your Subaru Alive).

Yeah I think i saw this thing on Craigslist last year with the blown motor. He was asking about as much as I sold it to him for, running perfectly tho when he bought it. Still regret selling it, but knew someday it would find its way around to the USMB. It has a ton of potential, the intercooler should not hamper its smogability.... it didn't here in sacramento. Anyhow. The motor he blew up wasnt stock, if you replaced it with a stock motor it should last a while with propper maintenance. However, with this heat... DEFINATLY GET AN INTERCOOLER! and a bypass valve because they do not come with one stock.

Does it still have a huge TOOL sticker in the rear window, or did dude remove that after he bought it? If this is the same car I am thinking of, it used to belong to me. And used to have an intercooler installed. And would have looked alittle something like this:

Good luck running an air compressor for long off a power inverter. Unless you buy a real expensive inverter. A/C pumps are the easiest way to make alot of air quickly. And cheap. You should look for a York air compressor. they have a piston pump with an enclosed crankcase that has the oil. The air traveling through the pump does not need to be lubricated, but it does need to be filtered. You can find these pumps on ebay fairly cheap. Might have enough room to mount em somewhere on a EA81. Right now, I use a portable pump that plugs into my cig. lighter. Im about to convert it over so it clips to the battery itself instead, and wire up a second battery. This is all for my 4Runner however, which I air down quite frequently. And airing a single 35" swamper from 8psi to 35psi can take quite a long time! This is why I cannot wait to rig up a better onboard solution!

Dude... are you in Yuba city CA?? Does that RX you have, have a boost gauge mounted to the left of the steering wheel? Where the rear defrost switch would usually be mounted?