TheSubaruJunkie

HAHAHA Rob!! THat is pretty ghetto, but it does the trick. And doenst look half bad. -Brian

PK your a life saver!! Speaking of shipping stuff, your lug nuts are on the way! -Brian

No extra here, and i doubt PnP will have any either. Theyre EA82 selection is slim, and you need to make sure you get the ECU from another MPFI EA82, dunno if it has to be turbo or not, but i'd suggest finding one. I dont think its your problem, and alot of mechanics in this area have no clue how to work on a subaru. believe me, ive schooled a couple mechanics in our area. if you want to take it to a mechanic who knows his shiz, look up a guy named Barsotti, he has a shop up in Newcastle and all he works on is subaru's. I'd suggest you listen to what the others here have said. -Brian

Matty, thanks... but i need these bolts asap, cant wait 6months for shipping from Oz Every internet site ive searched doesnt list anything long enough. Tomorrow when Im at work I'll start calling local supply shops, but doesnt look they even make them longer than 120mm. -Brian

Not if he doesnt come in this forum. Not everyone scans every forum, if you PM'd him he'd get it as soon as he logged in. Just trying to help. -Brian

Here's his profile Corky, last time he logged in was the 3rd... maybe you can PM him incase he doesnt see this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?find=lastposter&t=60886 -Brian

Mike, i removed the bar from the stock subie strut, and in the meantime ovalled the hole on the side i was pounding from. So needless to say, that bar wont work any longer. If i slot the stock bar, i will be left with very little material left on the mount itself. -Brian

ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not even McMaster Carr carries bolts long enough. All the have is 120mm, which is what im holding in my hand. -Brian

Thanks scott... just went to yet another hardware store, and they didnt have anything. Im about to measure this bolt, and then place an order with McMaster Carr. -Brian

SUBIEMAN COMES THROUGH YET AGAIN!! Thanks a million Jeremy!! From this shot, it appears the wagon and the hatch are the same in the way they bolt... meaning, the frame appears to match that of my hatch: I guess im just gonna go do it... Still wondering if any other hatch guys have had this problem at all. -Brian

Smaller? Then wouldnt I want to go with 9/16 which is near identical to 14mm? -Brian

Well, i dont think removing the bushing is gonna work. I went and looked at my frame, and it seems the rear of the frame is tucked up an inch, and that bushing is there to compensate for it. I wipped up alittle pic to show what im talking about: So, if i remove that bushing, and place a 3" block there... the torsion bar will sit 1" higher in the rear and im sure its going to tweak something in the near future. Have you hatch guys had to get a different kit from PK when you lifted your rigs? I cant be the only one to have run into this problem, and i dont remember PK mentioning anything different between hatch and wagon lifts. Im about to contact him, as I need to know what the thread pitch is on the bolts used. Looks like im going to have to order some new bolts. -Brian

you gotta love standard sizes... wtf 35/64... why cant everything just be metric!! Oh well, 35/64 it is with a 3/4 countersink. -Brian

The metal is so thin, i'd be affraid the block would collapse without the center bar as a support. I want to thank Jeremy (subieman) who went and took these pix for me. These are the same bushings on a '84 Wagon... i guess they are different for hatches! and I think im just going to remove them alltogether and see what happens. -Brian

Yeah rearward side... i got a buddy checking his '84 wagon to see if they have these bushings or not. If anything I could just wait till tomorrow and find a supplier through work. But i'd really like to get them today so i can get this lift done... and feel like ive acomplished something. I did take the day off to do this, would hate to have wasted a perfectly good 8hr working day on nothing. If anyone else is readin this, could you mind checking your torsion bar assembly for these bushings? -Brian

But these are the same bolts i used on my wagon... everything worked fine back then. Things havent changed, i made sure when i removed the lift, i kept all the bolts that were used. -Brian

Got some pix of some stuff. There are 2 rubber bushings bolted to the front of my torsion assembly. Not sure if this was there on my wagon or not, but there are bolts I can use to remove them. I know if I remove them, it will make the clearance i need to use these bolts. Im wondering if this is something Subaru added for hatches for some odd reason... here are the bushings in question: and One bushing is mounted to the underside of the torsion bar. That im not worried about... but the bushing on the rear of the torsion bar is bolted to the top. Im worried if I remove that, i will loose the inch it adds and will screw up the mounting of the torsion bar assembly itself. Anybody have any insight on this? Here's the problem im facing: -Brian

Ok, so i pulled one bolt from the front block... and there's no way I could have mistakenly used the rear for the front. The front bolts are only about 4" long, whereas the rear bolts are like 6 or 7" long. So now im stumped... why is it these worked on the wagon but not the hatch? Both are '84 model years, i cant imagine things would be any different. -Brian

So i put the front half of my lift in on saturday, started doing the rear on sunday and got fed up when i found my new shocks need modifications to fit. That, and it was 120 in my garage, and i didnt feel like roasting all day. So today, i called in sick so i can finish the rear of the lift. I drop the rear suspension and put the lift blocks in place, come to find the bolts for my lift blocks (the 4 front, not the 2 for the diff hanger) are too short. WTF!! These worked on my wagon? Im wondering if maybe i used the bolts on the front that I should have used on the rear. But the front has 6 blocks, and im almost positive all 6 bolts were the same length... all 4 i have for the rear are... and they only stick out of the block by maybe 2 or 3mm, clearly not enough to thread into the frame. So I drove to Ace hardware, found a bolt I thought would work. Bought 4, came home to find out they are standard fine thread and are a hair too big. ARRRGH!!! Took them back, went to O.S.H, they dont have 12mm metric that are long enough. Neither did ace, and neither did Napa. Just great! Now Im gonna go out and remove the blocks from the front of the car and see if maybe i put the longer bolts on the front that I should have used on the rear. -Brian

car revs fine, there's no lag on acceleration. Its a good thing I have high comp pistons in this block, or else my car would be a real dog. I seriously doubt theres restriction in my intake... i just pulled the intake a couple weeks ago when i put this turbo in (last turbo fried its bearings and oil seals). And since the car does make boost, im not sure if its my wastegate. Im not able to move the wastegate by hand, but ive never been able to on any of my cars. I think the spring in the diaphram is too strong... not sure, still fighting with my hatch and the RX is on the back burner. -Brian

Does the thing just flat out stall? Or does it sputter and die? If it kills the motor, then I would suspect an electrical issue. If it were fuel, the motor would probably sputter alittle before dying. -Brian

They dont differ. Same suspension. -Brian

They should have mounted the wagon facing forward so the kids could sit in the driver/passenger seat and pretend like they're driving, while the buss is in motion. That would have been fun -Brian

Yeah checked earlier to see if maybe my exhaust was just hangin. all the studs are there, gaskets look to be in good shape. If it werent 190 degree's on the pavement, i would have started the car and checked further for exhaust leaks. Maybe i'll pull it into the garage at work on my break tomorrow. -Brian

Just imagine what you could do to your wagon with $3000. Your talking about buying a $3000 car cause you dont want to do $250 worth of work on your wagon? Doesnt make sence. Sure the toyota is newer, sure it will run forever.. but if you do a good job of maintaning your Subaru, it will too and you'll have saved $2750 since you didnt buy your moms toyota. Now, if you can get it for $3000 and turn it for $4000... then go for it, that gives you $1000 to fix your wagon. -Brian