dragonwingsubaru

well took it out today again and found a good mud spot to test out the front skidplate thingy, and it did great, it dented a little but held up and kept 2 much mud from packing up the radiator. im not sure when i did it but apparently i managed to bend the front unibody a little bit by catching the tow hook on the drivers side on something and yanking it back about 3 inches, oh well all part of the fun i guess i did manage to get the respect and bragging rights with a few of the wheelers today, there is one hill at the place i usually go , that most people cant make it up, and i made it up with my little stock sooby, course i had to get a good running start, but so did they and they could only make it about 3/4 of the way up! and these were blazers and toyotas and whatnot more setup for offroading..

well if anyone cares heres the pics

i tried my damnest to keep it on the road but i swear this car gave me more crap since i stopped hitting the mud holes than i had when i was before. among other things it seemed every time i fixed 1 oil seal another one seemed to start to leak, and of course it had to land right on the front cat, and make the car look like it was on fire. well i was about sick of it by yesterday, so this morning i made a couple small mods and re-raised up the front struts back up and hit the mud hole up the street and now the motor has a nice mud reseal again and no more leaks and no more smoking lol!!! one of the probs that i had before that i didnt want happening again was mud getting packed very tight in between the oil pan and the skidplate to the point that the oil pickup tube would barely seem to get oil, and give the car the TOD, well as a fix i took a piece of sheetmetal (ie bottom of a screen door lol) and bolted it onto the inside of the skid plate to cover the 4 big holes in it. and today when i took it out i took through a spot that had some huge ruts to the point my tires barely touched and no mud got in between the skidplate and the pan the other thing i did to hopefully cut down on the mud that gets packed on the rad, was take the other 1/2 of that piece on metal and run it from the front plate bracket down to where the front of the skidplate bolts up. its thin metal but im hoping it will hold up a little bit. ill have to wait till it rains again since the good spots to test that out are dried up and it would be like hitting a rock right now. i meant to get a pic earlier but i forgot to, i get 1 taken tomorrow and post it in this thread. i guess it could be considered a ghetto skidplate setup but it works lol,

on mine thats where the rear gate lock and unlock button is

thank god that pic link brad did was just a really crappy photoshop job because they really looked horrible on the sooby, the big thing to put them on around here is, 70's and 80's caprice, 80's regals and 70-72 chevelles and they look even more retarded on them in my opinion!!!!!

i just did mine a couple days ago, and i used my cherry picker to lift it up about 4 inches after unbolting the exhaust and the motor mounts. just used an extension and socket on it and it pretty much comes right off. for me my gasket was still solid since i just did it a cpl months ago,and it was gonna be a 5 day wait for a new gasket to come in, so i just permatexed the crap outta it and put it back on and now no leaks

i just trimmed mine over a little bit over toward the blank space on mine and slid it right in, as for wiring it up it was a little pita but using the crappy haynes manual and the connector from the stock stereo, i got it all wired up and even with my aftermarket cd player there was no problem with the common ground speakers either, followed the wireing diagram exactly and had no prob at all. it does stick out about a 1/2 inch though but i think thats because i forgot to pull that screw thing off the back. ps i did have to run another ground and constant power wire though

well i am running 185/70-13 stock size tires at 44psi(max for those) and the timing set somewheres around 14btdc, and just straight mountian driving im getting about 33mpg, ive never even had my sooby on the highway. im gonna have to agree with ballitch and say its prob the auto tranny thats killing your milage, is it a 3 or 4 spd??

thanks for the torque info bill, i think i really need to get a torque wrench soon since i have a real bad habit of overtightening stuff or breaking bolts. the old gasket shouldnt be anything to get off since its only 2 months old, sounds like a real good idea to snug it down with the phillips head instead might not overtighten it that way, hopefully ill get around to it in the next few days

yeah pyro i have for the most part got it going right now, and as for when i had it for sale it was only 4 a couple days then put another post saying it wasnt anymore, the screws are about as tight as they are gonna go and thats was probably part of the problem, probably put them 2 tight and split the gasket somewheres, im just really not wanting to pull this whole engine out again if i can get away with it, ill try jacking it up in a day or 2 and see if i can get to it enough to work that way subyrally the annoying part for me is that i just put the motor back in a week ago after doing the crank, oil pump, and rear main seal in it so it is really frustrating that its pissing out oil now. i dont really have a big problem with a car leaking a little oil but when it makes the car a smoke cloud because of it thats when i want to definatly fix it

well after replaceing most of my seals of course one of the few i dont replace ends up pissing out oil. i hadnt bothered replaceing the oil pan gasket when i was doing my motor and of course now its pissing oil out over the exhaust now, looks like the cars on fire when i stop it. i know i should have done it especially since i was dragging the motor around a little bit on the oil pan, just didnt wanna do it since i had just done it 2 months ago. is there any way to do it with just jacking the motor up a bit, i really dont want to pull this motor out again if i can help it.

man you need to come to tennessee, no vehicle inspection or emmisions here, i have seen many cars that make great misquito killers lol. it makes it so much easier if you dont have to worry about a car passing inspections, especially in a place with no rust!!!

sounds about right steveman, you can probably modify up a power doorlock motor to do the job, not sure right offhand how you would go about it though since i havent tried it myself though but i imagine it can be done since i have rewired a power doorlock motor before to shave the handles off a vehicle before, and made the motor work the actual latch instead of the lock part

hey roundeye ummmm hell no!!!!!! lol that was way to much effort to clean this time, basically this is what happens when you go through really deep mud with a stock height sooby, what the pick couldnt show was i had mud solidly packed between the skidplate and the oil pan to the point it was actually lifting the motor up a little bit, hell i had to repaint the skid plate since it was almost all bare metal from scrapeing it offroading looks so nice now lol ill post up a pic tomorrow now that i got the motor back in

man cleaning that engine bay was a major PITA took me about 3 or so hours to do it but it was worth it.my kids had fun throwing all the mud out though lol!!!! i still gotta do the whole under carriage and get a little better in the wheelwells to make it perfect but i think its a definate improvement in the engine bay.and btw the motor is all back in now just took me a few days to gettign around to posting these. well heres the pics!!!

you can usually get an after market system for it, though most are remote start with keyless entry. im not possative about it but i believe most systems need an actuator to make it work on a older sooby, i had looked into it on 1 of the remote start with keyless entry systems i got kicking around and it told me that, basically i believe it is because the part of the system that tells the rest of the doors to lock in the drivers door is just something that you push down adn not something motorized.

yup the other guys are right undo the 4 nuts and things will come apart, you may have do use a little muscle if it has been a long time since it was last taken off. i know with mine i had to put a flatblade screwdriver between the fan piece and the pulley to pry it apart

a problem i just ran into was, well 1 i apparently didnt tighten the flywheel bolts all the way but thats prob not ur problem the other problem i ran into was i needed to adjust the return spring up a bit, it was liek it was sitting right on the piece with the fingers(PP)?. could only put the car into gear if it wasnt running and could crank the car till it started but the only way to stop it was to turn it off. have you tried to start it while its in gear???? adn i couldnt shift at all since it was like the clutch fork didnt wannt work at all. of course mine might have been a dual problem because of 1 of the flywheel bolts touching the disk. good luck on ur brat whoops maybe i should have clicked on the 2nd page first lol, well glad u got it going!!!

yeah i learned something i just know im not gonna do it again!!!! although i can have my motor completely pulled in about 20 mins now, since ive had to pull it so many times.

i just dropped my motor back in after a reseal on most of the major stuff, and im having mine where the oil pressure is only reading 45 or so after i redline it on the tach. and is below zero on idle but the car runs perfect so i would say just keep an eye on the oil and ear out for motor noise till you can get another sending unit for it. i know from previous offroading in mine my sending unit is a bit bent in the front and the whole front casing will spin around by hand so thats prob my problem 4 me. adn from the experience of packing mud so tight in betwen the skidplate and the oil pan that it cuts off the oil trying to get up the pickup tube i can definetaly say that is you werent getting the oil moving through it you would definately be able to hear the clatter.

well i tend to think it was more dumb luck, dumb because all the problems i had were because of me not paying attention when i put stuff back together and luck that i didnt screw anything up in all of it. still got really crappy oil pressure showing but its running good so i guess it doesnt matter

well got everything figured out and fixed, had a cpl other probs that i had to get fixed but i got it all now.

cougar the thread locker sounds like a good idea, the clutch disk has a little groove the size of the bolt head but its pretty much just a surface scrape so i think it will be fine, and as for a manual i have the ever useless haynes manual, and we all know how much help those are i did find that there was only 1 way to put it on i was just hopeing maybe soemthing more simple i guess, caboobaroo yeah the hump piece is the 1 u said i just didnt know how to describe it otherwise. still trying to figure out the return spring part though any info on that????

almost forgot i also have 0 oil pressure showing on my gauge but i did switch my sensor over from my bad motor since the 1 that was on it was bent and the front would spin so i was thinking it was bad. gonna try to switch them back b4 i put the motor back in. btw i had just done the rear main, crankshaft and oil pump shaft seal on it(could find anywhares with the actual oil pump seal around here.

well yesterday evening decided after 2 days of not touching it i was gonna crank it up initial thought was i was annoyed enough with it i was gonna go run it into a tree in my backyard. well anyways went to crank it up and it started on the first 1/2 crank without even touching the gas at all, so since i seem to have the motor tuned that well i decided to give this 1 last try. anyways after having the motor out in 20 mins first thing i did was pull the clutch assembly off and noticed that 1/2 of the damn flywheel bolts were loose 1 so bad it was touching the clutch disk. si i tightened them back up and im gonna snug them up even better b4 i put everything back together. my questions are 1: which way is the clutch supposed to face? with the hump type side facing in or out? 2:where is this clutch fork return spring supposed to be??? i can see any on top or bottom. if some can a pic would be great, or a very good description of where it should be. also is the cylinder piece thats in the middle of the (throwout bearing)? supposed to stay in 1 spot or move? with the clutch in its regular pulled forward spot it is about an inch out from where the bearing rests. also could the flywheel bolt touching the disk have caused the problems i talked about in my previous thread?? any help is appreciated hopefully have this back together in the next day or so