dragonwingsubaru

well nobody else bother to respond to this thread unless they want to help the next owner with this car because im done with it. went out to look at it today and when i cranked it up i noticed the crank pulley and flywheel were wobbling, they are both tight so im thinking crank bearings now. only wierd thing though is that it is running whisper quiet otherwise so i dont know either way im done with this. im gonna put in the marketplace as soon as i get the pics of it uploaded, its gonna be $600 firm or non subaru trade that runs and drives good (NO FORDS)ill put all the details in the marketplace post in about 15 mins, thanks for the help all u guys

poormanzimpreza i had pulled the motor back out the next day and unbolted all the clutch stuff to double check it all and granted i didnt see anything to tell which ay was the flywheel side on it, but just 2 see i tried it the other way and it wouldnt stay at all so i put it back the way it was. it will go towards the firewall the problem it is not wanting to come back very far from that direction and now im betting i cooked the clutch. all i know is im getting tired of messing with this car, im fixing to start a 12 hour day 7 day a week job so i am really not gonna have the time to keep screwing around with this thing.if it keeps costing me money im just gonna drop it on an s10 frame with a 4.3 and be done with it. i swear i never had any probs with previous soobs till i got this car and the sad part is it was mint condition other than a siezed motor

believe me im not a whole lot better on restraint i had to seriously hold back from putting my tire iron through the front windshield. as for what it did i noticed at idle after a cpl mins it started to make a funky noise that i cant really describe , then when i had lightly popped the clutch in reverse in 4 hi on my gravel driveway it suddenly made another noise and stuck in reverse the only way i could stop was to turn off the car. and the only way i could put it from reverse to 1st so i could get it out of the way was to change the gear with the car off and then crank it with it in gear and to stop i had to turn it back off since the clutch pedal wouldnt do crap. and yes the cables are still connected.

yeah i found out about the clutch disk when i pulled it back out yesterday, well put it all together and adjusted the cables and drove for not even a miles worth of driving and the damn clutch ************ out on me!!!! well this piece of ************ is gonna sit in the driveway till i decide what im gonna do with it! im tired of working on the damn thing

so can i take it nobody knows????

sounds to me like pretty much a new age copy of the pogue carberator, just made for fuel injection

ok finished resealing my motor today and bolted it back in was just getting ready to hook up all the hoses and whatnot adn noticed my clutch wasnt working like it should. when you push on the fork it just seems to sit there and not have the usual spring back. now i didnt loosen the cables at all when i took out the motor so i shouldnt have to tighten the cables but they still seem to be fitting loose, im curious if putting the clutch disk in backwards might make these symtoms. im not sure if i did since i was tired when i bolted it back on and forgot to check the direction it was in. if i can help it i would really like to avoid pulling it back out to fix this. any advice would be greatly appreciated , even if its not the answer i wanna hear lol also is there supposed to be a spring on the top of the clutch fork? if there is i seem to have lost it.

thanks for the info guys, so since its loyale i can prob assume it wont fit anywheres on my wagon then. guess ill put it in the marketplace a little later. anyone know what a new 1 of these would go 4, or meaning what should i ask 4 it? and is it for 2wd or 4wd?

does anybody know what this part is and where it goes if it is even for a sooby. i had found it in the back of my parts car i had, its brand new so im curious where it goes

glad to hear that he is making it ok, if he would have had probs by my place it would have been a real long trip for him

no you shouldnt have any probs doing a realatively short distance with a manual just pop it in neutral and your good to go. just leave it in 2wd if u can, and for leaks check out the crank seal as well which is just above the oil pump, im replaceing those on mine right now, the thing that usually takes the longest is ordering the parts and waiting 4 them.

if you get into any trouble early on and are going the i75 route im about 15 miles off of exit 49 about 20 mins north of cleveland tn. my number is 423-263-1972

lol raven nope nice try. im gonna keep it onroad because i wanna keep it, im just 1 of those offroaders that i need a strictly offroad and onroad vehicle. well i guess im not gonna get a response on the front bumper thing so im gonna go jy ing next weekend with the tape measure and see if theres something i like, of course 90% of the cars here in tenn get wrecked in the front so i may not get 2 far with this lol

well for me the numbers dont really mean much but ive found that different brands of distys (nippendenso and hitachi) are a completely different setup, taller or shorter, or at least they are on the ea82's your best bet it to take the cap and rotor in with you and make sure to match it up.

man i swear the parts store people are friggen idiots!!!! should have known it was too good to be true that they had a crank seal in stock. i told them nice and slowly what the motor i needed it for was a 1.8 and after looking at the reciept i seen that the moron punched in 1.6 instead ,went to put it in and noticed it was too small, apparently i need to start doublechecking before i leave since now i have to wait yet another day to get the motor back together. and btw the reason this is strictly gonna be onroad is because im getting real tired having to fix it constantly, its getting real old having to have the hood up all the time!

i wouldnt tow it with all 4 wheels on the ground unless its a manual. when i bought my 85 i had it towed 2 the house which was about 20 miles, with a regular front only type of tow truck, and had no probs from that. and when i broke my timing belt i towed it home with the hatch i had and my wife at the steering wheel for about 5 miles so you should have no probs with regular towing it unless it in an auto 4wd

well in light of recent and seemingly endless motor problems i keep on having i have decided that im gonna keep this strictly on road after i fix the motor. which i just pulled out this afternoon. when i got this car it was mint condition body and interior wise now im gonna have to scrub the hell outta the interior to get it nice again, and my rear bumper is all outta wack and the other day i hit a tree while i was offroading so now the front bumper is outta wack as well. it doesnt look to bad at first glance but when you really get to looking at it its all tweaked around the bumper area on the pass side. After close inspection my rear main, crank, oil pump, and oil pan gaskets are all leaking fairly badly, and the oilpan 1 is only 2 months old, im guessing that constantly packing the space between the skidplate and the pan with mud had really done a number on it has anyone ever tried to do a detailing type cleanup on a car that theyve been mudding with for a cpl months. god what a pita, i got some pics of how bad the mud was packed in there. i would have to say that cars 40 lbs lighter from all the rocks and mud i have sprayed outta it and im still not done!!!!! if i manage to have the time and money i would like to do a full out rebuild on the motor but i dont have that kinda time right now, and i just replaced the timing belts not even 300 miles ago so at least i dont have to worry about them. im probably gonna go ahead and paint the block while i have it out this time, just gotta decide on a color on the front bumper cover im curious if anyone has even modified a bumper cover from a different type of vehicle to fit???i was thinking about trying a 1st gen laser 1 since it has about the right angles to it, you would just have to extend the top back about 4 inches.

hell ide say fix it. i wish i still had the pics of my wifes 97 plymouth breeze when i bought it last year for $500. it looked way worse than that and the frame was swayed to the side about a foot back in the front. i just pulled the hell outta it with my van i had and got it almost straight and kinda counterset everything else so it looks straight.. i say fix it!!!!!!!!

well got it runnign today, but not exactly sure which thing did it, i readjusted the float in the carb, and moved the disty 1 tooth, and had noticed when i went to unbolt the coil to look at it that the wires had pulled out that lead to the disty when i lifted it up so it might have been a really loose connection. so i put new connections on that as well and swapped in my extra coil just to be safe. didnt have a chance to do the oil pump today so i still have no oil pressure on the gauge but did notice it goes up a little bit till it warms up, im gonna try to get that tomorrow. i do have another question what is that little metal tube that comes up from the head on the pass side and bolts into the intake? i just noticed that i dont have a single bolt in it holding it on, but it dtill seems to fit up to the intake pretty tight. is it something important???

torxx that was actually the first thing i checked the only way i didnt do it was checking tdc( although im not sure my memory is kinda crappy lol) didnt have a chance to look at it at all today since it was friggen pouring here most of the day today so hopefully it is decently dry tomorrow to look at it

replaced the filter about a month or 2 ago and looking at it, it still looks good, dotn have anything to check fuel pressure with but i do have a cpl extra fuel pump skicking around may give them a try after i start seeing some oil pressure again

sorry subaru dude but this wagon spend more time with the hood open that any ford i have ever owned, and i hate fords and would never own another 1 torxxx i left my timing covers off after doing my belt change so it should be easy to see. i wonder if maybe thats part of the prob? miles that was the first thing i checked was the electrical and all the vacume lines, and when i rebuilt the carb i left the float the way it was so i didnt take a chance of over adjusting it what do you gotta use to reseal the oil pump, just permatex or do you gotta get a gasket 4 it? all i know is if i keep having these problems this thing is gonna go up for sale with the carload of parts i got

ok this damn thing is still running like crap, i got lucky and the carb rebuild kit i order was the exact 1 i needed, so now the carb is rebuilt but is still isnt doing sh#%. i notice that it will idle pretty much perfect other than a miss that ive had 4 a while, but as soon as i push down on the gas it sputters and dies if i dont let off it, but if i rapidly push the gas pedal i can get it up to redline but as soon as i try to hold it down it doesnt wanna do anything but die. shawn not really sure what i was supposed to check on the hose but from what i can tell they are working fine, but i have below 0 showing on the oil pressure gauge inside and i made sure it was still connected. torxxx i gotta ask where is the oil pump on this thing? i cant seem to find my useless haynes manual right now im begining to get a little pissed off with this car i was bragging to people for years about how good subarus were and now that i finally got another 1 ive had more problems with it that any pos ford i have owned!!!!! im begining to regret even buying this car!!

shawn now that you mention that i better check that out as well, since i had absolutely no oil pressure when i limped it home the other night. i had thought i was just a connection that came off but hadnt look at it yet

dont have a pic of mine at the moment since i just recently moved and cant seem to find all my comp stuff yet, but i have a set of baja 55 watt rectangle lights from walmart ($20) mounted to the top part of the bumper on either side of the emblem in the center. and i have the switch mounted in the dash right beside where the radio goes, along with my toggle switch for my aux cooling fan.