dragonwingsubaru

problem is there comps list 2 different hitachi carbs, im guessing 1 for the ea82 and 1 for the ea71 but thay cant tell the difference, i ordered the little cheaper 1 it will be in today, im hoping its the right 1

well im posative it didnt even touch the exhaust since not 1 part of the body touched, and its 2 in from the cat back and still has plenty of air flow through it. im really starting to think its the carb since last night i took my wife to work and me and my kids decided to hit the dunes, (a bunch of hills and mud) and on the way home it would idle ok but as soon as i tried to give it any gas it would sputter real bad, no matter how much gas i gave it.i ended up having to limp it the 5 miles home. i will recheck the disty today to make sure i rule that out as well, i do know it has no up or down or side to side play in it. does anyone know where the hell the # is on the carb??? i know its the stock hitachi carb on an 85 and it has no idle air adjustment screw at all on the front, the auto parts places have 2 different carbs listed for that year and cant tell me crap about it, they give me some long #'s that i cant even find anywheres on the carb.

okay so about a week ago i had my timing belt snap so i fixed that and for the rest of the week it ran beautifully, then on sat i was taking a friend rallying around my property and hit a small jump type spot, meaning about a foot straight dropoff while going downhill doing about 20, onto a flat area. and ever since then it wants to keep sputtering, and the only way it seems to want to drive is to put the pedal down enough to open up the 2nd barrel. i double checked the belts to make sure it hadnt slipped time and checked all the vacum lines and both are still fine. my carb was a little rough and was kinda needing a rebuild but could this have broken it more? also engine was running quiet before this happened, now it is ticking like a bi&%$. and missing as well. dont have a compression tester but when i pulled the plug wires off 1 at a time on each 1 it made it run crappier when i took them off so i assume all the pistion are still working ok.btw its the pass side head that is ticking real bad. any thought would be greatly appreciated, i tried to figure this out myself but cant seem to.

well mine never had a chance to bend offroading i managed to bend mine up when i was pulling my motor after i bought the wagon., forgot to unbolt it and pull it completely offjust left mine bent though wonder if thats why mine is a pita to get outta 4 hi to get into 2wd sometimes. got another 1 in one of my parts boxes maybe i should dig it out and put it on an see

miles writeup will help you through it, i was unsure myself when i did mine last week but following it helped alot. as long as you line up the marks before you put on the new belts it will all come out right

mine like to stay up while its warming up , fast idle on mine seems to depend on how much i push the gas its anywheres between 1500 and and 2800 depending, on mine i gota tap the gas pedal just right to drop down the idle and it will go down to about 500.check and make sure that little coolant tube the the right side of the carb isnt snagging the throttle, i had that prob at first. gotta love the fullsize spare gotta 185 70 13 under mine with about 1/2 tread on it, 85sub you gotta gently wedge it in in the back then squeeze it by the air cleaner to get it to fit, it does take a little effort to get it in there just make sure not to put too much pressure against the aircleaner side when ur getting it in

i really dont think there should be any difference in the years, especially with the preloads set up a bit it should make it ride stiffer than a regular coil car, and you did say ur 85 was well used mine was almost like showroom condition except for the motor when i bought it and it looked like it had never hauled anything ever so maybe thats why mine seem so stiff.

ide have to say the suspension might be a bit worn out i have mine adjusted all the way up and mine was in like new shape so it made my ride very stiff really too stiff with still running stock size tires, i would say just switch the coils themselves over that way you could keep the adjustable part

ummmm didnt noticed i mentioned those 2 things till they were pointed out, well lets just say this site doesnt have a section to go into that lol, and believe me it doesnt have a thing to do with tennessee ive only been here a cpl years! after driving it for about 50 miles today the ticking stopped and is has run whisper quiet for the last 100 or so, so maybe its done with it for a while, did a little more adjustment since i had the disty a little too advanced yesterday, it was fully retarded to make it run and any more advancement on it by turning it was too much and made it die. so i have it set now so its dead on where it is supposed to be. subaru dude lol on the tennessee thing, really dont know how i burnt the tires in 4hi but i can say a new fuel filter does wonders for any car and no its not supposed to be brown lol its supposed to be white lol, unless its covered in mud like mine lol

it was just a fun weekend, first on sunday morning i had to have my gf pull me outta my back yard since i got stuck going mudding in it (d%$# creek) which was real humiliating since i had to get pulled out by a ford!!! then on monday on my way home from running some errands about 5 miles from the house i busted a timing belt and after getting a ride to my house had the wife steer the wagon while i towed it home with the hatch. the hatch did real well considering it was 5 miles on a hilly twisty mountian road. i did find out though why it was lacking power, the previous owner had the damn timing belts off by 180 degrees, im amazed that it would even idle decent before now that i have it set right with new belts(thanks miles for the excellent writeup!) and set it to 8 degrees btdc it will smoke the tires in 4hi on pavement now(not that i plan on doing that again!) still ticks like a bi#$% though

dropping in a motor is a simple thing really biggest pita is lining up the tranny and clutch stuff. when i dropped in my motor into my 85 it only took me about 2 hours tops,and i think i spent a good portion of that time drinking and talking lol.

you know i was gonna post about putting atf fluid in the other day and forgot, my hatch was running real low because of an axle seal and the only thing i had around at the time was some dextron 3, so i put about a 1/2 quart in and have had it in for about a week and a 1/2 now and it is shifting great now, it is even shifting easier when its cold. rooinator nice find that wagon looks really clean, i wish i could find the freebies lol

yeah no title though, would only be good as a parts car, or strickly show car after fixed, i wanna find 1 and actually drive the thing!!lol

ide check and make sure you didnt snap your axle if its pointed in that much. probably want to check the lower balljoint as well

hopefully you put the paint on thick enough, i did something almost exactly like that to a plymouth laser i used to have and when i had the lights on at night you could see the whole thing through it, only prob was you could also see real clearly where the thinner and thicker spots were, looked really goofy.

yeah i bet those rotary motors give out 1 hell of a noise with straightpipes, stopped good enough just had to push the brake just a bit harder to do so

well thankfully after about 15 trips back and forth finally moved into my new house. i used the hatch with a 7ft trailed bolted onto it to move all my stuff, only prob i had the whole time with the hatch was found out after the cooling fan wasnt turning on so it wasnt cooling too well, other then that it handled like a champ. really impressed me with the low end torque, had the car pack full and my stove, fridge, and completely full chest freezer in the trailer at 1 point and on the extreme incline at the end of my road, even after a dead stop it went up the hill like it didnt even have the trailer on it. little fun stopping on a decline though with all the weight and no pb on it. course it sounds like a bumble on steroids with no muffler and just a piece of pipe there.lol

i guess i do it the old fashioned hope i dont break something way. i just get it pretty well lined up ad then take a screwdriver cna carefully pry the axle downward so it is straight then give the hub a few good kicks while im sitting down and then make sure it is still lined up and give it a few more till its out enough for the castle nut on to get it in all the way.btw i grease the hell outta the inside of the bearings and the axle, it will go in so much easier if you grease it well. and the only thing i take apart is the lower balljoint and the outer tie rod end when i change an axle

my 87 had them in the cowl and not on the hood.

im not looking ot do a motor swap in this car, the ea71 runs real strong and can burn fairly new tires in 3 gears, so i think it ould be kinda dumb to swap out the motor, besides if im not beating the crap outta this car offroad ill prob just beat the crap out of it on the road, i just prefer to make it a mud fun car.

im sure its a ea71, since i just had to go through trying to track down a disty 4 it. ill double check today to make sure the starter is in the same exact spot as the other 1. but im pretty sure it is yeah i found those links, morgans especially was very informative, but i didnt see anything rellating to if ea82 stuff would fit

ok i did a search and found soem threads on this but in some ways they were a little vague(sp) ok im thinking about 4wding my hatch and make it my offroad toy now i have i believe what everyone calls the fat ea71, with the starter in the same spot as my ea82. now 1 of my questions is will i have to keep the 2wd clutch and flywheel or can i put a 4wd 1 on it?also can i go with a 5spd dr or am i gonna have to go with a 4 spd dr? also will i have to get a ea81 rearend hub or can i use an ea82, as well as a ea82 rear dif?, and can i basically use half of an ea82 wagon driveshaft or am i gonna have to get a hatch 1?and i know ill need to make the brackets to bolt it on and yes i do plan on doing a lift while i got everything apart. sorry if this stuff was covered and i just missed the thread that covered it. and i knwo someone will answer with the enough time and money you can do anything, im just wanting to do this with a little smaller amount of money spent, if its gonna take an outragus amount of cash ill just go buy the nissan frame and running gear i seen for sale and slap the body on that, its complete with tranny and t-case

yeah i know they are pretty cheap but its just not in the budget right now since im about tapped out because of paying the money for the new place and keeping all my bills current here now. towed the trailer loaded up with a couple hundred pounds today over to the house and it didnt wobble too badly so it will work for gettign the moving done but then im really gonna have to fix it after i get settled, prob do it about the same time i do the lower balljoints on my breeze. gotta say though i was really impressed with how much pick up and go it had going from a dead stop up a steep hill with the trailer loaded behind it.the trailer itself is fairly heavy, its only about 3 ft by 7ft but its an old 30's military frame, thats made out of a whole lot of solid steel

thought of that but the parts stores are complete idiots about soobs around here, guess ill just have to take the time to pull it apart and check it out or just say the hell with it till after i move, the place im moving to is only like 6 miles round trip from here so it might be ok. just had wanted to be sure it could hold up since i live up in the mountians and seems to have go uphill at least 1/2 the way every no matter where i go lol, btw thanks for taking the time to respond pyro

im hoping so pyro, im wanting to do a R&R on this in a hour or so and not have the car sitting there as i need it to move in the next week, i just dont think the balljoint is gonna hold up towing my trailer for several trips