BlueTrain

hey try pirate4x4.com.. they have a bulletin board where some folks might be able to lead you to some better stuff... but beware, as those cats like to flame.. especially anyone who drives a rig that gets more than 10 mpg. they also have a section "trail report" where folks have written about various trails... cheers...

thanks guys... will do...

well, was out playing in the snow tonight and noticed i have a little electrical quirk. when i put my signal on, headlights dim, when i use power windows headlights dim.. voltage pegs at approx 13 whist driving with no radio, heater, rear defogger etc running.. if i turn on the heater goes down to a hair above 12. is my alternator crapping out, or is it something else?? thanks....

yep, we're gettin more as i write this,, we only have about 3-4 inches on the ground, but its comin down nice and heavy at the moment.

ahh.. just throw one of those disposables in the glovebox..

lol..was going to add a few things but alias beat me to it. good aadvice. high mounted tweeters not only give poor imaging but sound pretty harsh, as all the high frequency sound is aimed directly at your ears. and if you are going to add/replace speakers anyways, go with something that doesnt come from the factory. usually much lower in quality for the price than anything you'd find at a car audio shop. a decent alpine head unit coupled with some nice JL speaks should make your ears happy..

oops, almost forgot the toyota owners. have had a few of those guys stop to help me out at times.. not the newer ones, but usually the older pickups, cruisers and 4runners.. cats drivin those are usually pretty cool too....

yep, soob owners are definitely stellar. before i bought the loyale, i had the chevy truck from hell with waaay too many gremlins. Every time i was stranded on the side of the road, broken down, it was ALWAYS a soob owner that stopped first to help me out. ...

had to reply to the post above which suggests using dex-cool antifreeze...there have been many problems regarding dex cool, as it will over time turn to sludge and plug up all sorts of fun stuff.. do a search on dex cool and you'll see what i mean..

got kind of a weird interior light thing going on.. well, it used to go off once the doors were shut. now, it only goes off when the key is turned to the on position. (so, headlights come on, interior light goes off). its now as if the doors no longer control the dome light, but the key does. any ideas?/ thanks.....

ya, but if you lose a glove you know you always have that extra one "stored" where the oil filler cap used to be..if you need the glove just slap a piece of duct tape over the hole....

thanks.. went out and put the mag light behind it, and its a mere breath below the max line.. shoulda known that there had to be fill lines on the reservoir..sometimes i still forget how practical the designers were..wheras the designers of the chevy p/u my new soob replaced weren't.. i'm still amazed daily at the sheer common sense in designing this thing as opposed to many of the newer vehicles out today.. thanks again...

ok, when i go to start her up in the morning, brake fluid light stays on for about 2-3 minutes.. i checked fluid level, and its about halfway up in the reservoir and fluid is not dark at all. what is the recommended level to fill it to? thanks...

yep, i agree with keith.. manual does state that pressure may drop to zero at idle when engine is warm... don't fret..

thanks for the responses folks.. i think he's probably going to purchase one this spring, this'll give him some time to nose around at a few dealers until then..cheers

ya, there are deinitely no sub dealers in flint.. actually my dad worked for the general for a bit over 30 years and has always owned gm cars.. nice discounts, but poor quality cars/trucks. both his and my moms vehicles have been giving them fits (dads 2001 pickup various gremlins and moms 1999 caddy has gone thru 4 computers) so he's thru with gm vehicles. so, now he's lookin at subs. i'll give him the info for williams auto world in lansing. iive also heard that hodges in ferndale is pretty good thru the nasioc forum, so im giving him that addy aswell.

howdy.. my dad is looking at getting a new outback or legacy wagon. he live in the flint area and i'd like to turn him onto a good dealer. so, any advice on a dealer in a 100-150 mile radius?/ thanks...

On the way to work today came across a super nice 82 4wd wagon. only about 130,000 on it, very little rust on it 'cept for a small spot on the tailgate, and a wee bit near the mudflaps. interior clean as well. if only i had an extra $1000, which is what theyre askin.. Darn....such a nice ride....

good to hear ya got yer brakes workin.. i hear they come in useful sometimes.. cheers..

well, we've gotten about 3 inches in the last couple hours... way too fun coming home from work. tis my first winter with the new soob, so permagrin for sure this evening. ya'll were right about how ell they handle in the white stuff. roads were wicked icy, but no slip whatsoever. the yota 4wds in the lane next to me, well thats another story.

lol..and now ive got a wicked case of carpal tunnel afta typin it all out..

1. remove any residual vaxuum from the brake booster by pushing the brake down several times with engine off. 2. remove master cylinder reservoir cover and fill with brake fluid.. reinstall cover.. check fluid often while bleeding to prevent fluid from getting too low and allowing air bubbles into master cylinder. 3. have someone there to help, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, empty plastic container, rubber or vinyl tubing to fit over bleeder valve and a wrench to open and close bleeder valve. 4. beginning at right rear wheel, loosen bleeder screw slightly, then tighten it to a point where its snug but can still be loosened easily. 5. place one end of the tubing over bleeder screw fitting and submerge the other end in brake fluid in the container. 6. have assistant push down on the brake and hold pedal firmly depressed. 7. while pedal is depressed, open the bleeder screw just enough to allow a flow of fluid to leave the valve. watch for air bubbles to exit the submerged end of the tube. when the fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds, tighten the screw and have assistant release brake pedal. 8. repeat steps 6 and 7 until no more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten bleeder screw and proceed to left rear wheel, and the right front wheel in that order and perform same procedure. be sure to check fluid in master cylinder regularly. 9. dont use old brake fluid. 10. refill master cylinder after you've finished.. 11. check operation of brakes. pedal should feel solid when depressed.

this is according to haynes manual... 1. chck fluid..add if necessary 2. if vehicle has air suspension..lower it...disconnect battery ground 3. raise and suppoert front of vehicle with jackstands 4. turn sterring wheel from lock to lock 2-3 times and recheck fluid level 5. start engine and let idle. turn steering wheel from lock to lock 2-3 times again and recheck fluid level 6. lower front of vehicle to ground. run engine, and again turn steering wheel lock to lock 2-3 times.. recheck fluid and position wheels in in the straight ahead position... 7. bleeding is complete if fluid did not rise from the full mark..more than .200 in (.5mm) and if no foaming is observed when engine is stopped.. hope that helps...

ya, its a snowin here in montana as well....

if it isnt bled correctly, it will foam up..