lmdew

I have a good clutch pack for you if you need it. You need to drop the tail shaft to see what's up.

Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so there is a fault in the Trans. The C-Duty is energized to dump pressure from the clutch pack to release the rear wheel drive. If you put the FWD fuse in do you get the light on the dash? Most likely mechanical failure in the tail housing. Search Torque Bind and you will find some post with great pictures.

There are 4 sections to the typical Subaru Exhaust that are bolted together, so yes anyone should be able to hook them up. Y-pipe engine to CAT Cat Pipe, front and rear CAT and the O2 sensors Mid-pipe - Cat to Muffler has a resisnator in it. Muffler The Muffler you can get from the yards. Most of the other are trash as the yards cut out the cats. They cut the Y-pipe and Mid Pipe to get out the cats. I have most of these if you need them. I'm in Colorado.

I doubt the lack of a muffler will cause the O2 sensor reading. Is it the front or rear O2 sensor? Put the system back to normal and see what the codes are. If you have a good scanner or meter you can watch the O2 sensors.

If he jumped the car side of the wiring the switch was out of the picture! But, yes if the switch is in the circuit that could be it.

Auto? Torque Bind! Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start?

That's a nice one! I have 299K on my 98 OBS and love it.

Can you read the voltage with the lamp installed? www.brighterideas.com had the Load Pro. Sounds like you have a bad connection that will not handle the load, heating up and opening up the circuit. Check the grounds!

Just sitting would not cause anything to change. The spring clips holding the TOB to the fork may have failed and then the adjustment on the TOB to clutch.

I reuse them all the time without any problems or leaks. The fittings are easy to cross thread. I always take the little clamp off the flex lines.

Yep, find a good shop. You can do a lot of MX on your own but it's always nice to have a pro take a look.

If there is a Trans problem, the AT Temp Light will flash 16 times after you start the car. You can have torque bind without any codes. Drive in tight circles on dry pavement. If it chirps or fights going around the corner, you have torque bind. TB could be the C-Duty or the clutch pack. Put the FWD fuse in, do you get the FWD light on the dash? Does that take care of the TB? As far as the miss fire, make sure you have Subaru of NGK plug wires and NGK copper core plugs. Both are recommended here at the USMB. The ABS has codes as well, do a search and you will find the procedure to pull the codes after you have put the fuse in.

The front O2 sensor is necessary for the ECU to properly correct the fuel ratio. If you have a good scanner, you can watch the O2 sensor response and get an idea of the rich or lean condition of the car. The random bucking could be the cam or crank sensor going out, but that should throw a code, so should a mis-fire. Is the CEL working? Have you tried pulling the codes even if the light is not on?

You have a Headgasket leak. Pretty common on the DOHC 2.5. When cool, open the radiator cap, I bet there is little to no coolant. Cheap route, replace with a 95 2.2 with EGR. If it's been overheated for sometime, it's a gamble on just doing the HG as the bottom end may be damaged. Black, oily stuff in the coolant tank = HG failure on the 96-99 DOHC, at least most of the time.

No Cel back on as of now, I"m going to check the setting on the TPS and will run a can of seafoam through it. Thanks

Temp sensor was pretty close 2.73 ohms on the new one, 2.22 ohms on the old one. Adjusting the TPS back about 1/4 from where it was set seems to have dropped the O2 sensor to 0.72 - 0.45 with lows a 0.080. I don't have the TPS adjustment instructions with me in WI. Any thoughts on other things that could be causing it to run rich. I have a new O2 sensor coming. Thanks, Larry

I did a swap for my wifes brother. 96 Outback 2.5 to 2.2. It ran great in CO and all the way back to WI. Once I hit WI the Cel came on. It still runs fine but it has the P0420 low effeciency of bank 1 of the cat. I've swapped the 02 sensors with some good ones I had. The response times are good but it's running rich. Most of the time its 0.925-0.750 range some times dropping to 0.355. The coolant temp is at 190, temp gauge just under half. I'm going to change the coolant temp sensor today and clean the MAF. What else causes a rich mixture, the plugs are darker than they should be and with the O2 readings confirming it I'm pretty sure that is causing the CEL.

Grab a good used one, it will cost less and be faster.

It will run, but you'll have the CEL. The Head can be drilled and tapped, but you'd have to pull the engine to do it right. Some have tapped into the exhaust manifold but, I don't know if that is a good option. Live with the light if you don't have emissions.

Are you sure you timed it with the tick mark in the tooth of the crank gear!

OEM Diagnostics would be great. Lmdew@hotmail.com Judd got the are in a not running condition, Engine. The trans was good as far as the PO said. So it goes.

I was up to fix a furnace problem so I took a few minutes to look at the Subaru. The connector to pull the Trans codes has 4 terminals: 1 I I 2 4 X X 6 The #6 Terminal when grounded shows the ABS Codes, this is the one that is called out for pulling the Trans codes. I tried each Terminal 1, 2, 4, 6, and no of them pulled the Trans Codes. I might be because the TCU is continously flashing, very fast. I've not found what continous flashing means. Anyone know? It's not the 16 flashes after start, it just keeps on flashing. Thanks Larry

Yes, pretty common for the auto Transmission. I wish there was a simple fix. The only fix I now of is to sell the auto and get a 5sp :>)

The head port could be blocked. Can you pull the line off the EGR valve and start the engine see if you are getting flow out of the line.

The newest I've worked on is a 2002, but I don't think much has changed. Pop the hood, on the drivers side on the back of the engine you will see the starter bolted to the transmission bell housing. You can follow the positive battery cable if you need to. The soleniod is part of the starter, the round cylinder on the top. You can tap it a bit while someone tries to start the car. Make sure your off to the side and it's in park or neutral with the brake set. It's not to hard to pull off: Disconnect the Negative and the Positive terminals on the battery Disconnect the Positive from the starter Disconnect the start wire plug from the back of the starter Remove the bottom nut Remove the top bolt Pull the starter out. You can then bench check it or have it checked.