lmdew

OEM Diagnostics would be great. Lmdew@hotmail.com Judd got the are in a not running condition, Engine. The trans was good as far as the PO said. So it goes.

I was up to fix a furnace problem so I took a few minutes to look at the Subaru. The connector to pull the Trans codes has 4 terminals: 1 I I 2 4 X X 6 The #6 Terminal when grounded shows the ABS Codes, this is the one that is called out for pulling the Trans codes. I tried each Terminal 1, 2, 4, 6, and no of them pulled the Trans Codes. I might be because the TCU is continously flashing, very fast. I've not found what continous flashing means. Anyone know? It's not the 16 flashes after start, it just keeps on flashing. Thanks Larry

Yes, pretty common for the auto Transmission. I wish there was a simple fix. The only fix I now of is to sell the auto and get a 5sp :>)

The head port could be blocked. Can you pull the line off the EGR valve and start the engine see if you are getting flow out of the line.

The newest I've worked on is a 2002, but I don't think much has changed. Pop the hood, on the drivers side on the back of the engine you will see the starter bolted to the transmission bell housing. You can follow the positive battery cable if you need to. The soleniod is part of the starter, the round cylinder on the top. You can tap it a bit while someone tries to start the car. Make sure your off to the side and it's in park or neutral with the brake set. It's not to hard to pull off: Disconnect the Negative and the Positive terminals on the battery Disconnect the Positive from the starter Disconnect the start wire plug from the back of the starter Remove the bottom nut Remove the top bolt Pull the starter out. You can then bench check it or have it checked.

Yes, it can be caused by the neutral switch. I had the same thing happen on a 98 Forester. There are two switches on the trans one neutral, the forward one if my memory is correct and the Reverse Switch. Both of them plug in to the harness up in the engine compartment close to the engine trans flange. You can check them with a meter, they are just open close switches.

Nice picture of the plug. I pulled that down for him last weekend and showed him the ground pins. I was picking up an Impreza for a friend and hit the road. I should have stayed a little longer. He'll figure it out. Hope its an easy fix. If not, I have a good auto trans ready to go in. Larry

Yes, search does work. I found your link the other day, but ask the question anyway for some first hand information. I'll make sure he has the link. Thanks, Larry

Yes, he said it had the external spin on filter. I guess we need the newest code process.

My son has a 99 Legacy Outback. He picked it up not runing, redid the HG and put the engine in. The AT Temp light flashes continously. With the trans in park, the engine revs fine. With the Trans in any forward gear about 2000 RPM is as much as you can get, 10 MPH or so. With the Trans in Reverse, the engine will rev higher and you can gain some speed. He tried getting the codes out by jumping the black connector, but he only got the ABS codes. Is there a difference in the procedures for a 99 vs an older Trans? The diagnostic plug has different pins.

Start it and put a dollar bill in front of the exhaust. If it get suckec back to the exhaust pipe you have a bent valve or valve timing issue. Could be off a tooth or two.

Yes

Check the socket. Lot's of times they are not as tight as they should be and cause high resistance. I've seen the plugs melted.

What CEL do you have? The lack of the ground wire is should not cause this, but you should swap that gound wire over to the new Trans. The Trans is also grounded through the engine connections. Did you get the same gear ratio trans so it matches your rear diff? Did you unplug the engine harnes when you installed the trans? Any other things you did at the same time? Check the CEL Codes and let the board know what they are!

Voltage on the downstream side of the load (the light) should be 0 vdc if there is only one load in the circuit. If there are mulitiple loads in the circuit, you are reading the voltage drop across the single load. There are mulitiple grounds in that harness, I'm not sure which one is the actual ground. - Main ground up front on the radiator support in front of the battery - Ground on each side of the lower frame rail, towards the front - 2 grounds on each front strut tower.

One or more of the half shaft axle boots are torn. If you look under the car at the axle ends you will see the boots and most likely lots of grease. MWE Axles in Denver CO has great rebuilt axles. Larry

It will depend on the aspect ratio. 215/60/16 should be fine. If you go to TireRack, and plug in your car, they will list all the available sizes.

I'd check all the connections and the battery ground and connections. If you have the TCU Part # I may have one for you.

Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so the, the trans computer has a fault stored. Getting the fault is complicated and you need to follow the instructions exactly. They could always have a trans shop take a look. Many will do a free diagnostics.

Remove the after market alarm system. I've seen the same symptoms with others. If you look under the dash, you will see the large wires which go to your ignition switch are cut! The alarm is spliced in. Remove that junk and but it back to original and your problems should go away!

I don't know if it's the same on your's but a friend's college son put in a radio in his 98 OBS. The lights all grounded through either the radio or ash tray light. With the wires disconnected, he saw 12vdc sitting there looking for a ground. He thought it was a power wire and hooked it up to the radio power wire along with the correct power wire. He lost all of his dash lights and blew the fuse. Sounds like you have the same thing going on. Did you use a adapter plug or hard wire the radio? I'd disconnect what you think are the power wires going into your new radio and then check it again. I bet you find one of them is a ground wire with 12 volts looking for a ground.

I just ran into this. I have a 96 L. Outback that had a 2.5 DOHC with the canister up front. The 96 Legacy 2.2 had it in the back and no lines for the canister. Two ways to go, if you pull both intakes, you can swap the fuel lines over, which have the canister lines. You will see the difference. Another member recommended just getting a 95 2.2 intake with the correct lines. That would work as well. Another member recommended putting the two diagrams side by side and then tracing the lines connecting them to the front canister instead of the rear. You 2.2 must be a 96 or later, I'd say.

I'd be happy to send you 1, 2 or more pumps that could use a rebuild. I should be up in Portland in December, near the airport. If you are near by, I could get them from you then. Larry

Amsoil Redline D4 ATF Royal Purple Max ATF I know everyone will have their own preference but any significant differences?

I have a good Auto out of a 96 2.5 DOHC Legacy Outback. I have the chance to pick up the 95 svx at a reasonable price. I believe the trany should bolt right in but will it plug and play? I do have the rear diff to swap over as well. Thanks, Larry