lmdew

I posted a 97 Impreza in CO for $300 with 148K. Drive it out and you have the complete car and a low mileage 2.2

Get a good hose clamp on the trans hose. Don't want that one to blow off and fluid poor out.

Yes a steep hill will work as well, if you don't have a floor jack. A couple I've had to run down the road a bit. No heat coming out the vents, temp would go up higher than usual. but then temp would drop and heat out the vents. Air block in the engine can be tough sometimes. Most go well and are easy fill and burp. Heat comes out, temp stays solid 1/2 way up.

I jack it as high as my floor jack will go. Yes pull the upper radiator hose and slowly fill the block. Once the block is full, put the hose back on and fill the overflow bottle and radiator about 1/2 way. Start it up with the heat on full. Once coolant starts to circulate squeeze the upper radiator hose to burp it. Keep on doing that until you have no more air bubbles in the overflow. I've had one or two that were very hard to bleed. I finally got them. Good Luck.

www.car-part.com I'd find one with lower miles.

Yes it's great to be in CO! No rust plenty of Subaru cars in the yards. Sweet!

Yes, I'd remove the bumper and take a good look at the metal around the support. See where it get solid and then cut one out at a self serve yard.

Why did you replace the radiator? If you have the DOHC 2.5 and have had overheat problems you most likely have head gasket leaks. It's common on these engine. Do you have black oily stuff in the over flow bottle? If so the HG are leaking. Drop in a 2.2 engine. Larry

3 parts to every circuit: - Load - Ground - Power Check out Load Pro on you tube. Was any work done before these stopped working? Did they ever work since you've had the car? Pull up the schematic and check for voltage under load.

Yes your paint is in great shape.

On a sedan they would be sort. Trying to think of the mid way brace on the wagon. Have to take some measurements the next time I'm in the yard. I don't get there very often these days, so I hope you're not in a rush.

What year and model do you have?

Just noticed your location. I love Palma. I was there many times with the Navy back in the 80's. If you need a good rack from Colorado, and help installing let me know. Larry

If you hit the yard and drop a headliner on an Outback you will be able to see all of the frame attaching hardware. The rack is mostly supported from the brackets inside. I hauled a 20 foot beam 6x10" over 200 miles tied to a 98 Outback roof rack. No problems. Stacks of plywood, no problem. Just have to tie it on well.

Look at your new pump and double check all the bolts. It's sealed on with RTV or the Subaru sealant and you have to pop it off. Look at the bottom of the pump. The 2 round extensions on the casting extended below the block. You can take a large pry bar or wood board and put it between those and the oil pan and pop the pump forward. Again check all the bolts first! Make sure you check and lock tight the oil pump rear cover screws if you are reusing the pump. Change the seal, Subaru recommended and get the oring seal. The one between the block and pump. I use Gray RTV to seal the pump on. Subaru does have a specific sealant to use.

USMB is Great! If you enjoy it donate! Keep it alive.

1+ good independent mechanic that knows Subaru!

I put a 2000 OBS on the list the other day, $3000. Low miles. Put Forester struts on it for a nice lift. That's what I've been driving for the last 5 years or so. Love it.

It's got the 2.5 DOHC engine which has head gasket issues. If the HG have not been done, expect to do them. Better to find a Subaru with a 2.2 engine in the 95-99 year range. Here's a nice one: https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-2000-subaru-impreza/6939205493.html

From what I remember there is a cam on the MC that is pulled way from the fender when the clutch is pushed in. There should be a spring on the MC that pulls it back open.

Disconnect the cable from the clutch fork and make sure the master cylinder cam is all the way released.

Nice.

Read voltage under load at the starter and going into the starter motor. Load Pro. Check it out on youtube. Great tool.

When you stay starting issues, you mean the engine is NOT turning over. At least that is how I read your post. You need to check voltage under load - key on, turned to start. Read it at the starter positive terminal and starter + lead coming out of the main contacts of the starter. Clutch pedal safety interlock switch may also be the cause. Ensure it's being pressed in when you have the clutch pushed all the way in.

I did the better half's 2006 Forster Clutch today. With the half shaft NOT having the stub shafts and roll pin it tough to get enough clearance to get the half shafts out of the transmission without damaging the seal. The exhaust was nice with the cats staying up on the engine. I had replaced the rear muffler a while back so I knew those bolts would be good. The 3 nuts coming off the cats came of without a problem. 95-99 are my favorite years. Larry