ericem

yes, definitly a good investment, and as a suggestion, pickup some bridgestone blizzaks.

My dad had to get mine out, you got the timing cover on or off? my dad did if while on, he got pliers, and didnt come out, then we got a hammer and flat screw driver, and made it aim more up. Remember its shapped like a banana, so it needs to slide up and out. Then we got it aimed up enough, and pulled REAL hard came out but dropped it in the timing cover So we got a magnet that we extended in there timing case(didnt want to remove timing case to lazy i guess ) and got it, then we got a new key for few bucks from dealer and spend a few hundred on a new pulley. Now all is good. Also remember, when you go to torque the front crank bold do it to 140FT-LBS, yet everyone is going to say thats wrong, but in my mind its right, because Subaru Canada, Subaru Of America, and my Subaru dealer said 140ft-lbs, and i did it, and it DOES NOT strip the threads. At 70ft-lbs( as stated in the haynes manual i guess) it isnt enough, and the bolt loosens over time, and then your pulley wobbles, and the key way, and the key shreads, and everyone, including me gets angry. To torque it down to 140ft-lbs i let subaru do it, because i didnt feel safe, i torqued it to 100ft-lbs(thatts all i could do with a pulley holder(thing with belt that wraps around pulley) ) so the guy did it for free, and did it right infront off my, with no issues. This is my experience, good luck!

Oh noo!!! if that broke, then? is that engine interference? Hopefully there is no internal damage, i wonder if doing a compression check on the pistons would determine whether the engine is worth your time, and/or the valves are bent. Wait do i see the crankcase cracked? or no lol, i dont know what im looking at.

Till it impossible to fix it? lol, im never going to sell it. Im to close to this car(meaning i have spent to much that its not worth selling.).

everything is original except the strut(lol, ya didnt think, thinking about my rc car) Next time im ready to work on the car, new struts with bushings and new top hat, total rebuild will be done from and rear. Should i replace the springs as well? There is maybe a dot of rust on them.

+1 basically any off the never ones are very good, ask long as there is no metal frame, that seem to freeze and cause streaking in the winter, the elastic type wipers seem to be the best.

agreed, but i dont see tire manu/ recommended is.

definitly.

Ill run by what subaru recommends and that all, i think its 29 rear normal pulling, and 31-32 front? ill check it later.

oh, because i went 4psi over the recommended, so ill try that out, thanks, i think ill go for OE struts, just because mine lasted SO long.

lol, i don't even know what im asking what im asking, is do cheaper struts create more noise, when you hit a bump, compared to OEM struts, and the GR2's. Oh, and i was wondering, should i go back to OEM struts? i can get them, but do the GR2's make the car more controllable and smooth, or are they the exact same, just OEM lasts longer. Why did i get my struts, because off my noobie mechanic, and me not searching up how much GR2's cost.

thats the best thing to do, but they usually replace the entire casing, and everything, well atleast here they do for the same price converted, i should have did that instead of going to a dumass tranny shop with crappy MF's!

I was wondering if cheaper shocks make the car more louder when hitting bumps, because its pretty loud inside, like after i have my shocks changed(front ones) i notice a difference, but they were cheap ones, you think the KYRB(can't remember the name) shocks are good, overall like what i mean mostly is noise wise, and OEMness and mileage. And id being doing all the bushings, top hat, what ever around it, but im not sure if i should do the springs as well, and of course ill get alignment done. Thanks guys

oh, well i think your right on the mark here, because this started now that its cold(-10?C) Should i give Subaru a shout, you think im covered?

you must have blown a whole lot of fuses, because i would think if the TCU werent gettings power you would need to shift manually, altough im not sure if it would work, but i guess it does.

it was a hot car man! to bad you its totalled by the way, you look EXACTLY like my cousin, if he were a little older, and if you had a italian background:-p Anyway, i dont think at 70mph you would have just lost it, you much have had a tire blow out, i can't see you just loosing it on a dry road, ive cornered at 90MPH once(please don't do this, very unsafe, but i was angry) and the car was very controllable even with the 14" steel rims, and no rear sway bar. :-\ I guess you should pick up another legacy JUST like that one, maybe just not turbo, and swap everything, and your good to go. However your probably a little dramatized now, don't worry it will wear off. Good luck.

oh, well, wouldn't that be more in the lines off the battery if it can't hold its charge overnight? If im near a shop, ill get a load check done.

no, it does it when u turn on the car, not driving.

voltage at idle, 14.10V highest 14.2V lowest 14.08V, alternator is giving 14.2V battery was at 14.08V, now im guessing this is a battery issue then. Right after you shut off the car, the battery goes to 13V right on, it might have been dropping a bit and caused that issue. I don't know, what do you think? Must be the battery right?

well ill definitly clean them before baking, does a heat gun work by any chance? I think i got the ok, because my mom and dad LOVE the clear look. YAY!! But ill probably mess it up, hopefully not

well for 300 bucks can't be perfect, but i know everyone is going to say do a couple transmission oil changes, which ill say as well. OR get the AWD unit replaced,because i guess if the clutch wears down so much it can't engadge at all, also possible the drive solenoid can jam, its unlikey, but i guess it can happen. Another test i would do is jack it up while in the air and give it gas see if all four wheels turn. There is also a post around here to you can make the AWD run when you want it to, so check it out, if i find it illl add the link, so this way you can choose 4WD or FWD and if it works in 4wd, then i dont know:-p

OK, lets find a scrapped WRX STi shouldnt be to hard to find? Then we will have our own STi right guys? Well i already know everyones subaru is a STi

i definitly wouldn't want the solar panel around my engine bay or front grill, i think your better off hotwiring the front or rear lighter.

Oh yaa, your correct, how would you get around this? Anyway you can disable the alarm? unplug it something?

possibly its a simple system, maybe all we need is the TCU, and controller which adjusts the split between front and rear diffs. But then again the STi can do 40/60 so more rear wheel drive power. SOmeone with more experience is hiding some where