ericem

LOL, these guys said the torque converter kept cracking, and they replaced it 4 times, then they replaced the TCU, and they claim it fixed the problem, guess it didnt eh? Isn't something suppost to be torqued to the correct ft-lb's? might i add, i don't feel any difference in performance, or do i ? Doesn't seem to be working perfectly, but my dad thinks this is how the car felt when it was new, i think he is loosing his head, i remember when i was young, and that is NOT how the car felt.

Thought it was a noise from the heater core, but i tried all settings including off, and it still makes the knocking noise, its not a steady noise, its very inconsistent. one time is was VERY audible, i mean i can have the radio turned up and i can hear it. What can cause this, the car drive, well, lets just say the engine, and the rest of the drivetrain is solid, minus my transmission, that i spent $3000 on, to let a bunch of newbs fix, and screw me, tonight or tommorow ill do a test. Ill listen under the hood while my dad revs the engine, seems to do it, as the rpms drop in 1,2,3,D,N,P, after driving over 80KM/h. Just want to fix this, and not expierence sudden failure. Thanks. -Eric

I also recommend a dealer, i got screwed real good by a unexperienced shop, that just changed the solenoid and clutch(got a nice $3000 bill, because they were total idiots there).

isnt dextron 5 the latest? ANd works with dextron 1,2,3,4?

only comes on sometime eh? Had the same symptom when i need a new CAT, and O2 sesnor. If it runs fine for you leave it, hopefully it passes inspection though(emission wise). When u removed ur glove box(if you did) did u see a plug going into the heat core, like it was going into a small(what the heck can i call it) It was plugged into a while plastic board? When i unplug that i dont have heat anymore. But all it looked like after i removed it was a thermostat:-\(that was rusted heavily. guess moisture builds in there).

be sure to look at the fluid levels, leaks, check out the transmission fluid and make sure its red, not brown, or smelling burnt. Look around the vehicle for rust,and such. Inspect all the CVD's for broken boot. But its a good suggestion to bring the car to a mechanic to inspect the vehicle. There is much more, like make sure there is no CEL(Check Engine Light) or trans oil temp light, and make sure the car does not over heat at all. Also ask for records of timing belt change,and/or oil changes or repairs, and be sure to do a VIN number check.

Loud eh? Do you mean the engine is loud? or the exhaust:-p Just because it has high mileage doesn't mean it will run rough, ill tell you what, these cars could probably run like day one for ever. Do you get a check engine light? l

Well i think this is a simple issue, when i was expirementing behind my glove box, i unpluged a connector attached to the heater core of course, and on heat mode it wouldn't work but all other modes work, then when i plugged it back in heat worked. Its on the passenger side, behind the glove box. Good luck.

never knew there were legacy's with EJ18's.

Wow? never heard of such a thing happening, are you just kidding, or telling the truth, but that sound awful,i mean it MELTED!

can you pull the rear driveshaft, diff, and CVD's?

wow, and i was about to go to AAMCO, and get my tranny fixed, but instead i got screwed by a private tranny shop for $3000, for now on, the only place i take my subaru to is my dealer, and thats all, i dont care anymore.

I test drove one, and they feel really solid, not floaty, i feel like i could corner at 90mph:lol: This sounds like camber and strut, and sway bar issue, id bring it to the dealer, things definitly don't sound right, and make sure all 4 tires are inflated properly.

that was a small amount of snow if you ask me:lol: My legacy went through snow higher then that, and didn't get stuck, i even stopped and it kept going,didn't slip either, but i did have blizzak snows.

same question, probably wouldn't fit properly, but doable, guess we should wait for a reply.

yay!!!! but you should not say a legacy can't handle like a EVO, im 200 percent sure it could! (snaps fingers) If you really want the car to be a EVO, get a STi sway bar, but measure it first, or just get a heavier sway bar like lets say, if yours is 18mm, then get a 20mm up front. And the rear, well you cant just get make them both 20mm well you could, but i guess it effects handling aspect a bit. If you still want to make the car a EVO, get a strut bar front and rear, and get a thicker/stiffer front sway bar, and then see if it oversteers, then work with the rear if your not satified.

you were being a good guy by telling them, but there idiots, and don't care, oh well, they still shouldn't tow awd vehicles likethat.

i did mine like this, filled it through the rad, and turned on the car without the cap, then put on the cap, and then topped the resovior then loosened the air bleeding screw, and voilla! Air free system, worked perfectly with mine.

The old ones looked like a normal car, that wasn't abused. But a car with steel rims is just looks like a beater, but still looks pretty good. The old rims looked good still IMO, i mean Possibly a repaint in a aluminum colour,OR black? Nah aluminum colour

i used a belt tool like that, and torque it to 100 ftlbs then drove to my subaru dealer and they torqued it to 140ft-lbs, free, since im a good customer. Im guessing the chain has rubber around it, so u dont damage the pulley correct?

Be sure to invest in a torque wrench as well and do 140ft-lbs, with blue locktite, and the tool porcupine is speaking of, is the one with 4 bolts on it, that holds the crank pulley correct?

Sounds very much like torque bind. Just to test, try putting the FWD fuse in, its beside the right strut tower.

To tell you the truth, i would think all four struts should be replaced at the same time, with the same ones. Also i would use STi springs as well, im sure there much more stiffer and work with the strut. Also some people experienced the front sway bar snapping, but i guess it would be more serious. How quick were you going around that turn? LOL, it looks like your about to flip!

do you mean its clicking? Do you see a broken CV boot? Or grease all over the wheels? Does this happen when your going straight? Or turning? If going straight, check front diff fludi dipstick. If turning, torque bind. but torquebind can sometimes cause the vehicle to shudder after a LONG time of driving with torque bind.

Im sure you could get up to 500k,but not with the original tranny If there is no check engine light, theres no codes, or the light it burned out. But to check its very easy, its a matter off connecting 2 wires i believe and flashes a light, and you just number how many times it flashes, and you get the code. Heres the website legacy777 has that tells you everything, about reading the ECU codes, and ETC. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html