ericem

very risky id say, very likely for it to start leaking. I would stick to OEM. But im sure the aftermarket MAY suffice. When mine died, it just leaked like crazy, but i dont know if my T belt was damaged, because i changed the t belt and water pump at the time.

(Eric: Calling Subaru Missisauga ) ......... Edit: The guy i usually talk to wasn't there so tommorow........

LOL!!! Well, have fun taking a drive to the city, or just go to ur auto place and get a new one jeese :lol:

Try reseting the TCU as well, by unplugging the battery for 45mins.

All i did was drain it once :-\ Can i try out that transmission fix stuff?

No, the car was brought to subaru to get the problem inspected, but he said these things, and said to bring it back to where it was serviced, but i don't want to, and over there the guy wants to charge me $120 for a transmission flush, when he didn't even know what was wrong yet. But the guy who did the work hass no clue what he is talking about. And i what i mean by delay, is if i gun it in snow, takes time, then it engadges smoothly. But When the car is up in the air, you can oviously see that there is delay, and its not just the clutch slipping

Main question is should i remove the rear housing? I was told by subaru that there is a filter in that area above the solenoid. And it can get clogged, and the fluid gets trapped in that area. But its like a 5-10second delay. Once warmed up its 5 seconds then the more i keep trying the sooner it kicks in. Then after driving for a few hours usually about 1 second or less. Seems like whenever its cold outside clutches just won't engage. The guy also said when the clutch was replaced he may have not shimmed it correctly(jeese forgot what he told me, i have it on paper somewhere) the fluid can get trapped in the clutch. He said he could remove the rear casing and for 2-3 hours of labour= $150-$300. For me he would probably do it for $200 and clear out the screen or properly shim the clutch, or both. And it will work he said. They did several tests with there computer(watched them) and all sensors are operating 100%. What should i try next? Before going ahead and let him do the job? Maybe that transmission fix stuff? Thanks. PS: CLUTCH AND SOLENOID were replaced.

listen to the expert But im serious

I have no clue, but head to ur dealer, and test drive another Legacy.

Yup, but there should be only one code, but there is one sensor behind the dashboard that dectects the speed shown, if it sees one sensor pulsing and and not the other one, it will think they 1 or the other is dead.

Check out the 91-94 legacy wagon's they are truly solid vehicles! I prefer 92-94 design over 90-91 but thats just me, the 90-91 can look good for others. But overall very very very reliable solid cars! with very good safetly ratings(like most subaru's )

Maybe the timing belt skipped a tooth or 5 But then that interference engine might be damaged, because i think it is interfernce engine=bent valves :-\

i go through automatic car wash with brushes, scrubs real good, and i use the points that build up to get me a car wash once a week for free, heck it cost me 10,000point and i have like 300,000

Not worth my time, if im in there, why not just replace it Because it seems more like if the CV has been contaminated its just garbage, and after driving through salt and crap. I think ill just get the CV frm the auto parts store, anyone try them are they OKish quality?

Transmission had a full rebuild and all seals were replaced, and it has been tested not a SINGLE leak at all. Im dumping in my normal ATF screw it $10 is cheaper then $40 for synthetic.

hmm, im thinking about getting the aftermarket shafts, i can get them from my autoparts place for 50 bucks lifetime warrenty, and i guess ill get a haynes manual, think it will be a simple unisntall and installation? Is there something i need to worry about in the proccess of doing this job? I also have a impact wrench(my fun new tool ) and a torque wrench, and enough tools to build a house and heat and cool it

WOW, that muffler sounds SUPER cool! and powerful! Never heard one like that, im used to hearings those ricer exhausts You know the ones farting? This one has a reall!!!!!!!!! nice sound! Now you need to go through a car wash

This is why i ask, becasue i heard the new gen subaru's use sythetic. So why not use the same stuff in my tranny

Well i found my knocking noise problem, and harsh take off, problem, its my front left CV the boot is is PARTIALLY open, and grease is all over everything, but its not ticking, its knocking? Possible? Can i just put some grease on it every so often and it will keep it going? My budget is kind of tight, so i need to strech out the CV replacement. Any ideas what i should use to lube it? Thanks.

Does dextron IV work in my particular year vehicle? But i thought synthetic fluid came out A LONG time ago, just a little expensive. And Dextron III must have been available at the time, because subaru recommended it.

nice :cool: Notice any better performance?

Just wondering if they used Synthetic in the first gen Auto Legacy's. Can anyone confirm this?

What he said, and try some high octane fuel(91 octane or higher) as it does clean out the engine in a way, and does increase the engine performance, even though the compression ratio isn't neccesarily for high octance fuel, but higher octane fuel does give me better fuel economy and performance. Also dump some seafoam through the PCV valve(AKA crankcase) and then dump some in ur oil, and then do a oil change after driving for 10minutes. Should help in difference ways. My 93 legacy i find is VERY fast if u ask me, its my little reliable rocket, that can go through 4ft of snow P.S: Its a automatic by the way

OEM for sure.

ya thats our canadian stuff , meets warrenty specs according to label, so should be alright, but later ill get full mobil1 synth next oil change, just thought id flush out with normal fluid, if it doesn't work this oil change, is it ok to try the transmission fix stuff?