Qman

Yes, you did read about 27's without a lift. However he beat the hell out of his wheel wells so he could turn. He had to beat enough that he actually put a couple cracks in the rear of the front fenderwell. It took awhile but I managed to convince him that he needed a lift also. You can only beat these things so much.

First, without the lift it will require more trimming. The best fitment is with steel pugs. A lift and a come-a-long will go a looooooong way.

It has been doing that alot. Must be something with the new upgrades that were done in the gallery. If you click on the album name and then the pic shows up fine.

They are not servicable as they sit now. They can be removed and replaced with an aftermarket u-joint. Can be spendy depending on the driveline shop that does it. If you keep blowing the rear joint I'd look at the rear diff Might have pinion issues.

They also sell wiring diagrams for the conversions.

There is also a campaign from Subaru. It requires changing a hose or two and adding a piece between the hoses.

More research reveals that it appears they were available in 1987 only.

Has anyone seen or know of a 2wd Turbo 3dr? I have seen sedan's, wagon's and XT's but never a 3dr. Just another off the wall thought that runs through my brain.

Well, surprisingly, I am starting to feel better. So, I should be there. I don't know if I'll have a vacancy yet.

Jeff, what year is your Hatch?

I am sure that the diameter is different. But I don't know if the overall length is different.

Sounds like it may be stuck on the pins. They can't really be seen from outside. Also make sure that the flat washers are removed on the lower bolt/studs. I have seen them stick before. Are you getting any separation of the engine and trans? There are 2 nut/bolts and 2 nuts that bolt the trans to the engine. The crossmember shouldn't need to come off the trans to drop the trans. Have you removed the starter? It will need to be removed to get the trans back far enough to clear the clutch assembly. Once you have everything off and loose you may have to wrestle it around a little bit to get some separation. Once you get it to start to come apart you can assist it by GENTLY placing a flat screw driver or prybay between the engine and trans. Slowly work your way around the bellhousings and it should slip apart. Make sure to have it well supported by the jack. Also make sure the clutch cable and speedometercable are disconnected and that all electrical connections are unhooked. That should give you enough to get it loose and out. Good luck.

I know for a fact that it has been sitting for a while. It may just have bad gas in it. Also pop the distributor cap and check for moisture. I know it was on 277th for at least 4-6 months.

I forgot to mention. Use only Factory Subaru PCV's. They work best. Others have a tendancy to suck oil. Don't ask why because I can't answer it logically. But all Guru's I've ever talked to about this have stated the same thing.

Good guy and he does know his stuff. Spends most of his time with the new stuff. His turbo'd n/a 2.5RS is the baddest.

You didn't buy it from Corky. He sold it some time ago. That buyer/owner got laid off from Boeing I believe.

Vice... Are you familiar with the Justy? Not much involved in replacement with a used engine of that size. It's an inline 3 cyl. Knowing the history of a car is invaluable, in my opinion. Besides, it sounds like she doesn't have room to part it out anyway. Given that fact the value for scrap or whole is next to nothing. Looks like you got a decent car with a newer drivetrain for an additional $400.00 investment. Do you know what that's worth in the long run? Engine replacement is more work than replacing an alternator. However, it is not that difficult with the proper guidance and advice.

No, it wasn't actually. His wife made him decide over projects. He chose the EA82 Turbo sedan over it. He did the 1600 to 1800 swap. You should contact him for the history.

The reason I asked about the ladder was how much room it took in the wheel well. You may or may not have issues with it and the larger tires. Mostly when the suspension is compressed. Cool set up.

Yep, same location. It just looks like a pipe fitting before you take the hose loose. Word of caution though. The hose will more than likely be brittle. If you unthread the valve first you can usually get the hose off without breaking it.

If time is a concern I think the fastest way to remedy this prblem is with a used motor. Where exactly is high wycombe? I'm assuming England or Scotland. That motor is a cross plant I believe. At least the block anyway. The fuel system may be different. All you really need is a good long block and a day to swap parts and install. A weekend would be a good idea just incase you have a problem or two. It would be much less expense than another vehicle. Anything reliable will be much more than the repairs. Depending on your location we may be able to find you some help and support. Ken PS, Hey John, there were alot of them sold. But, the biggest problem was the auto. Once people learned the cost of replacement they usually ended up in the junk yards. Except for those that got converted to 5sp's.

I'll do my best to get there. At least to say hi/bye.

After a small back injury I am a maybe at best, right now. I'll update if things change. Ken

Yes, Caleb is right. Blue Hatch is Mudrats and the maroon Hatch is mine. There's also a shot of me and Eric("Bob"). I didn't realize they had pics of us from the "Taste".

'81 is an external regulated model. SOunds like a bad regulator. But that doesn't explain the stop running condition. Although the fuel pump may run off of the charging curcuit. Kind of a failsafe, if the vehicle isn't running the fuel pump won't continue to run. I'd say replace the regulator and see if that cures both problems.