Qman

There is a plug that rests behind the glovebox. A blue or white connector(can't remember exactly) But you can unplug it and work on it where it's warm. Chances are it's just the solder as described above.

Most dealers, big or small, will never buy into a "lifetime" warranty. If you are looking at a loan for this purchase you may be able to get extended warranty through you financial institute.

11.8 gallons in the 4WD model.

Tim, welcome to the board. You have picked something that has been happenning quite a bit lately. By clicking on the search button and searching for EA82 conversions you'll find this Search results Here's one of the lengthier posts on the subject. EA81 to EA82 swap Lots of reading but it should answer alot of your questions. If you find any questions unanswered give us a shout.

Pull the grill back of. Check the alignment screws. If both are pointed down it may have just popped of the screws. If that is the case it will be easy. Just slip the screws back into the slots of the headlight bucket. Otherwise it may have tweeked the front sheet metal under the bolt-ons, ie, lights, grill and bumper. If this is the case then you will need to remove the grill headlight buckets(4 nuts per light reached from the engine compartment. Then you will be able to see where the bending occured and then pull it out a little. It shouldn't be that bad. Check it out and let me know what you find.

Actually, I have never seen a EA81 hatchback with cruise. The hatch's were more of the entry level car. Never seen one with PS either come to think of it. That is definitely an EA82 alternator. Pretty good shape considering it was in the JY. The effected areas will probably be best restored with fiberglass after removing the bad spots. Disty shields are really not that rare though Rory. Not trying to undermine your sale though. Your price is good if someone can't get one. I have a couple of them sitting on the wall.(but they're not for sale, sorry)

Is your mileage straight off the odo or is it adjusted for the bigger tires?

Very nice Dave. Is it going to end up 4WD or will it remain 2wd?

$1050 for a '90 in Ct.(east coast) We all know the story from the east coast. Salt water or salted roads = bad mojo. Even if you have to do the belts and some other major maintenace. It still sounds like a decent investment.

The actual term for your car is "LE Touring Wagon" or "Sport sedan". I know what you mean by no listing for it. Check for the LE and you'll find what you need on it. They aren't extremely rare but are getting harder to find. I believe the only option they didn't get was leather. They have everything else that I am aware of.

A cracked distributor cap or wet ignition will also cause these symptoms. A large vacuum leak will do it as well. When is the last time you changed the fuel filters? (Especially the rear one) Does the carb look like it is dripping when you look down the hole while it is running? When you apply the fuel does the stream look like a fine squirt from a squirt gun or does it look more like a faucet? Have you checked for the loose carb(most comon problem with Carter/Webers) as the base plates will loosen over time? When was your last tune up in general? Ken

OK, I'm good now, at least feeling better. I'll be there, just don't know about a free seat yet.

Recheck your wires. Sounds like you have the wires backwards on the drivers side. 3...4 1...2 Firing order 1, 3, 2, 4 Which I am sure you know. Make sure the wires are correct on the cap as well. Nothing controls side to side firing of the plugs but wire location. Good luck.

Same issues apply to those as well. The '80 may have a 1600 and single range though. Certain panels can be found. I know they have rockers for some of the Brat's. Used sheet metal is always floating around. I am not sure where to find floor boards.

LOL Probably the most critical is the front frame/body mounts. They're uni's as we discussed the other day. If those get too bad nothing left to hold the car up but the cross member. I had a Brat once that the drivers seat was actually falling through the floor. Basically, just crawl around under the thing and check it out. Also, look for paint that is bubbling. Always a sign of hidden rust growing unchecked. Ken

You're welcome, any time. Rust areas on an '84 and older wagon... Rear wheel wells, rocker panels, floor boards, front fenders, body mounts under and behind the front tires, front frame rails, rear hatch area, bottom corners of windshield. These will work for any model from the same era. Let me know how it goes. Ken

You have mail.

It's about time they closed Walker for the winter. Last time we were there it was all torn up.

OK

Chances are it is the diodes in the alt. Sort of a tell all sign. It will read good voltage at first but the amperage may be slipping. What model Subaru do you have?

Greg, call me and I'll give you directions to my place. We'll talk and I'm pretty confident I xcan answer most of your questions. I can even show you a few examples. I also thought of a wagon for you. Ken

The clutch forks crack at the ball socket(pivot point). It is very replacable but does require moving the engine forward or the trans back. Don't have to completely remove but you may want to depending on any service that you may want to do.

Zaps is off the market for now. Heep, I replied to the PM. Also, you have mail.

Interesting thing happened today. I went in for an emission test on the '85 Brat. In the desription screen of their computer it stated that the Brat was an SUV. I kid not. Maybe I can get some documentation from the DMV and put an end to this issue once and for all.

EA82 flywheels are the most plentiful. Clutches should run $100.-125.