Qman

They are regrinds from Delta cams in Tacoma. They use your old cam and weld and regrind it to the proper specs. Good quality and very quick turn around.

Definitely 8mm. You will have to get a set of make your owns though. They don't make a set of 8mm for the EA series cars(at least that I have been able to find). So you found a rig did you? What did you end up with? You'll have to come by and check out my '85 Brat now that it's done. Ken

What everyone is missing here is the fact that Shawn is using a FT4WD trans. They are shaped differently then D/R's. I think you are on the right track with removing the sway bar for now. Getting everything lined up and then installing the bar. It may require some spacers at the crossmember mounts for the bar to clear everything. I would also do a little massage therapy to the tunnel. It looks to be hitting on the top corner of the trans as well. Those tranny's are a bit wider, if memory serves it's purpose, then any other tranny except the 4 sp auto. BTW, cutting and welding the sway bar will cause it to lose it's spring. Unless you re-treat it after welding.

Well, I got it back from the exhaust shop today. Bad news first. He couldn't do the dual setup like I wanted. He couldn't match my specs or requirements. Good news, he built a very nice well flowing system that seems to do it's job nicely. Accelleration is dramatically improved. Power to 5K rpm's. Still need to fine tune it with the addition of 8mm wires and a regap and carb adjustments. All the same though it is a drastic improvement over stock. I took Rob for a ride and he thinks it'll be a good race between the Brat and his EA82T wagon. I am going to make a few tweeks to the suspension and see how the handling is improved or not. I am going to install a T-wagon sway bar and new rear shocks. Then I am going to do some experimentation with a torque block spacer for the carb. I'll expand on the results later.

There are two 10mm head bolts that go into the block above the oil pump. Slightly loosen these and it will relieve enough pressure that you'll have better luck getting it out. Use Mick's technique or use a couple of small 90 degree picks to wiggle it out. Make sure that you do not gouge the inner area. When you install the new pump be sure that you retighten those bolts or you'll have leaks.

That's all I asked for to begin with. Show me results and I'd make a decision then. One other thing to consider when stiffening an EA series vehicle is the fact that they are uni-bodies. The stresses will have to be distributed somewhere. Let me know your findings and I'll make a decision from there. Ken

To add a bigger turbo to your EA82 you will need flanges for mounting and new downpipe as well. The EJ cross over will not work as it is a dual port exhaust vs single port exhaust. Ideally you want your restriction/backpressure before the turbo with almost zero backpressure after the turbo.

brat86, that is all true. My uncle built the first dual engine hemi dragster in the 60's. But... a full on drag car doesn't have things like dashboards and cd players that will take the excess vibrations to heart. Solid mounts and chains have been used in all aspects of motor sports. But the situation is completely different. 4WD launches tend to add to the abuse meter. I feel a little flex is good. Saves on the expensive parts. Mounts are cheap compared to axles, drivelines and clutches. Also, wheel hop is caused by the suspension and weight transfer not the trans.

Yeah, I saw that post. I am a little hesitant to go with a solid type mount for the engine and tranny in a Subaru. It will tighten things up nicely but where will the movement that should be taken up in the mounts go? Axles, U-joints, driveline or clutch components? Show me results of a field test and then I'll consider converting. Ken

This motor went into the grey '85. The silver Brat remains the same. Your gearing will kick me. But my additional power with less weight will help me keep up for a while. It'll be lots of fun though. I can't wait!!

:clap:

What kind of money? It is not as common but I believe it is right. I remember someone(Mick maybe) brought this combination to light. 87K makes it a good find. I remember someone was looking for an auto Brat a while back. So if you find you do not like it there will probably be a buyer if you wish to sell.

Just got your email. Glad Shawn was able to get it taken care of for you.

How's the power now? Seems a bit big for stock set up.

Good point Tom! Guy in a Suburban kept trying to pace me for some reason. So I just put my foot into it a bit. FWD is the only thing I've done with it so far. I need tranny mounts before I get to uppity.

You're in Greenwater? I love it up there. It was about 2:00pm that I headed to the shop. Sorry if I spooked the birds. Should get together and meet up. Shoot me an email if you'd like to check out the Brat. Ken

Well, I slept in today and started about 12:00. Within the hour I was taking the first test drive with Mikeys with me. Very loud exhaust leak but still ran real well. Drove down to the exhaust shop and left it there. Should be ready to pick up Monday sometime. Runs strong but will need to be fine tuned once the exhaust is finished. Some ingredients, *Solid lift block(1800) *Hydraulic heads(decked .020) *Stripped Hitachi intake(gasket matched for Weber adapter) *Removed all emissions. *Very large profile cam. I don't have to specs handy. The builder told me that when installed in aircraft it produces 150hp with small injection and exhaust. After explaining my set up he said 150HP easy. Maybe more. *True dual exhaust *32/36 Weber It has a nice little cam lope to it. Not really noticable but the trained ear will pick it up. More when I get the fine tuning complete. I may still need to upgrade the coil for a stronger spark.

I just picked up a EA82 flywheel that was shaved down to 20lbs. Noticably lighter than stock and about 3-7lbs lighter than a stock ER27. I am sorry that I can't tell what the stock weight was. It was a while ago that we weighed them and he told me he wouldn't sell the lightened one(until today, he, he).

I started the transplant today. Undid the first hose at 4:30pm. installed the last bolts at 7:30pm. Short 4 shorter exhaust bolts that I'll pick up in the morning. A visit to the exhaust shop in the morning should be the final piece to the 150hp puzzle. Report card tomorrow.

Fact. The wristpin location is slightly different between 1.6 and 1.8. 1.6 is slightly lower on the piston. Maybe .010 but it is different. I showed this to a long time Subaru tech once and he didn't realize it until he saw it with his own eye's. .010 across the surface of the piston could result in .5 CR?

Which direction did the clutch disc springs face when you put the disc in? Toward motor=bad, away from motor=good. Check the 4WD lever too. Also try to let the clutch out with the E-brake fully applied. This will tell you if the hub is bad or even an axle. If you let the clutch out and it dies not a problem with either but, if you let the clutch out and it doesn't die then get out and see what is turning and what is not. Make sure to have the emergency/parking brake fully applied. A helper wouldn't be a bad idea either.

No carrier bearing on a stock EA81 wagon!!

There are torque specs for this. I believe it is 145 ft/lbs. It sounds like a washer problem to me as well. Try Edrachs suggestion of cleaning the mating surfaces. While doing this you can check for grease amount and condition in the bearings. It may just need to be repacked or even just replacing the bearings with new ones and new grease may solve the problem.

Swapping to discs is often the best answer for any brake issue on a Subaru. To solve the problem you are currently having. How much travel does your brake pedal have? If it seems to travel quite a bit try adjusting the rears per a manual. Usually turn the adjuster until you can not turn the drum. Then back it off one flat. You'll understand when you do it. The adjusting bolt has four flat surfaces on it for adjustment purposes. The rear brakes are notorious for making noise because of the drum design. Dust and such can not escape and they are small enough that any material will cause them to chatter.