Qman

There are a couple sensors that control height. I have had them not want to go to high settings before(GL-10 sedan). Try jacking on side then the other with a floor jack and see if it will self inflate. Do you hear the compressor working or is the light on with no noise from the compressor? Sorry about feeling taken. But... a used car is just that. It can last for years or minutes. Unfortunately there really is no right answer or solution to this type of thing. Good luck and let me know about the above info.

I don't have hard numbers for you, but... I have physically seen the difference in the height of the EA81(1800) and EA71(1600) pistons. The difference is in the pin height in relation to the top of the piston. There is a difference but it is slight. It will increase chamber volume but I think the fact that most also deck the heads this may lose some of it too. I am running two different hi-per motors with different cam profiles. One is more torque and one is set up for higher RPM and horsepower. Most of you HP is going to come from your cam regardless of which pistons you use. I will try to find the numbers for you in the FSM but it may be a while before I can post that info.

A little history. The first hydraulic motors appeared in 1983. US Open market anyway. They were mated to automatics. The EA81T's were also hydraulic. In 1985, these hydraulic motors were installed in all EA81 applications, ie, Hatches and Brats. The first benefits are that you do not need to adjust the valves every 10K miles. Other benefits include bigger valves in the heads(better flow ?) (Less maintenance for the owner). All of the parts are interchangable. I have built motors using solid lifter blocks and hydraulic heads and big cams and pure hydraulic set ups with big cams. EA81 weren't the only hydraulics though. JDM 1600's also came with hydraulic lifters. I don't know what requirements were but I know some had them. Solid lift tends to be better for pure performance but the technology has come so far in the last 10 yrs that anything can be made to perform and be reliable.

Hmmm, I have also heard a rumor or two. Word has it that there will be a WCSS6. It is in the planning stages and no mention of site or exact date has been set yet. This will be interesting though. 2 shows in the same time frame, scary.

Holy crap!!! I just did a quick tally and figured you guys have a long way to go. I've been at it a little over 5 years now and figure it to be over 50!! with 8 on the property right now. Parted, bought, repaired and resold, kept, modified and transformed.

Rob, not all were turbo's. Remember my '84 beige wagon? Back to the question, what are the rpm's while in gear and out of gear? When was the last tune up done? When was the last time the fuel filters have been replaced?

:clap: :clap:

How's Jareds status? I'd fly down to him if I could get out of work but it's a zoo right now. Someone has to be able to get to him. Which hubs does he have one the roo now? Maybe someone can get a set of used hubs to him to get him to the base. Ken

Should be from an H-6(XT6). You will need the XT6 clutch for that one. The major components are engine-trans, exhaust-turbo. motor mounts, all vacuum lines, fuel lines, water hoses. The radiator will have to come out as well. Do you have a manual for it yet? That should be the first purchase you make. Read it through and familiarize yourself with the components and methods in the descriptions. It will make it easier to have it on the fender than having to get on the computer.

I don't know of any complete kit for them. I think you'll have to piece it together. Rings and bearings aren't cheap though. Have you contacted CCRinc in Colorado? They build Subaru engines to factory specs and ship to your door. They do short and long blocks. CCRinc

It's not the HH. They leak and fail but I have yet to see one bind up. It is in the pedal. You need to lube it. The pedal has two springs on it I believe(if it's a turbo)(one if not). Squirt some sort of lube around the pedal pivot and see if it helps. If it does you may want to disassemble the pedal assy and use some lithium grease to lube it all up. Make sure the clutch cable is routed under the steering column in the engine compartment. That is one of the most frequent mistakes I see on Subarus. People route them over the column and they wear out prematurely.

Well, two people can move it around OK. Being that it will have all goodies still attached I wouldn't recommend it. The two hour estimate is a bit off in my opinion. I am very versed in the mechanicals of these and I can have the turbo engine out and on the ground in 1-1 1/2 hours. The first timer will take a bit longer. Either way is ok, it just depends on the equipment you have access to. Do you have a larger hydraulic jack or an engine hoist? This will determine which way will be easier. Time wise you have to take a few things into consideration. You have to get the flywheel turned(machined) to make sure you don't get any clutch shudder. There's clean up of the parts and such. If you are gonna pull the motor then I'd recommend doing the rear main seal as it will be out in the open(either way you do it actually) Maybe valve covers or any other leaking gaskets or seals. More work now but less later. You will also take into account the time needed to fix any broken bolts in the exhaust system. They don't always like to come out after they've been untouched for long periods. Being new to this I would say plan for a weekend and hope it only takes a few hours. Another option is to get a flywheel from a junk yard and have it turned ahead of time. Will save an hour or more waiting for the shop to turn it.

There are a few ways to do it. Depends on if you want to pull the motor or trans. Make that decision and then we can give you pointers.

Excellent point!

Going strictly by engine and suspension set up would be boring. This why they call it racing. You take the set up you feel comfortable with and go from there. I enjoy seeing how I stand up against other vehicles and drivers. Besides, most of us that run do compare our times against eachother for bragging rights so to speak. Sometimes depending and track conditions the times vary alot but that's OK too. It is mostly for fun ayway. The option to higher fees is to join the SCCA. The first year is rather expensive but the following years is just a renewal fee. You will enjoy lower entry fees and possibly an extra run for SCCA members. I believe there are discounts set up for members at different places as well.

Looks good from the pics. The transfer case gearing help push those big ol' meats ok? When is the tentative date for being back in Washington? Ken

I believe the cost at WCSS3 was lower because we had already retained the venue. It was just covering insurance, ORG and SCCA costs.

Well, at least you can drive at night again.

The cheapest I found was $300+

After reading the entire post again, I see that we have gone off track. Yes, octane was brought up. And, yes, different opinions have definitely been discussed. But the point that has been forgotten is this... We should be trying to answer the question of the poster instead of arguing octane ratings and perceptions of such. This has been debated(low vs. high octane) since inception. It is fine to discuss/debate and even argue about it in the appropriate forum(Off-topic). The EA81T is not carburated. It is a computer controlled engine management sytem. Two of them actually. I think the problem with mileage is not relative to octane as much as it is to connections of components, electrical part failure. It could be as simple as having the injectors professionally cleaned. Changing the O2 sensor or resealing the motor. Any number of things can attribute to poor mileage. Good luck

For Mike and Mick. FYI, I used a mount from a Kawasaki 4 wheeler. Modified for the receiver mount. A few options,

Numbers sound right. Use the circle method to torque everything down. Also, use steps to tighten pressure plate to iron it out. Do not go to torque on one bolt before they are all snug, not tight just snug. Then, go to spec in a couple of steps to make sure you do not warp the plate.

They are both, seller and buyer, Nucking Futs

It wasn't that bad. We ended up outside of Index. Couple feet of snow and a complete blast. Almost lost one over the edge on a corner. Had to dig a couple out of snow holes. Snowed most of the time while we were there. Funny thing is is that it took me 6 hours to get home from Reiter pit. They closed 410 east for about 5 hours due to ice and an over-abundance of stalled and stuck cars on the hill. I ended up going around which was lots of fun with a 2wd 3/4 ton Suburban and a trailer behind it. I came home to 4 more inches of snow yesterday. That gives us a total of about 8+". Can't even imagine what Monday's storm will bring. I haven't seen this much snow around here since '91's inaugural day storm.

Jeff, is it a manual choke?