Qman

Have you done a voltage check at the alternator and battery? It may still be charging system related.

Sorry to keep asking the same questions. But, if it was performing well at driving RPM's then I would say check the connections at the battery and alternator. But you say it is not. What are you using to clean/spray the wiper motor with? You may have some bad solder developing. You may need to scrape and clean or even resolder. Do you have access to another wiper motor? If you do you may want to test it in the system to take the system out of the equation. Good luck!

Not completely untrue. Most ground wires are too small. Just enough to ground the system. The newer cars seem to be more ground sensitive then even our cars. 15 HP I doubt, A couple of HP could be gained by all the electical components working at peak performance. Still, at first glance it is quite funny to see.

They make KYB's for Subes. The air suspension is on the '85 and newer EA82 models. Mostly found on the GL10's and Turbo's. You may want to just save some money for a while and buy the kit instead of spending alot of money to get little or no results. This is simply my opinion.

Does it act normally at higher RPM's?

Fuel filters. Change both of them. Chances are that the rear filter hasn't been changed in a while. It starts as a little bog or hesitation under load and gets progressively worst.

Are they slow at idle and at higher RPM's?

Dante, the easiest way to do this is to get a roof rack off of the same style wagon as yours. Attach it to the car using the original bolts and Riv-nuts. Then using all thread you can build a locking device for it and it will be safe. Never had anyone mess with my spare when it was on the top of the Hatch. It really is the easiest solution other than strapping it down inside the car.

Done. I have been having battery issues but will try to get it sorted out before hand.

I'll check with the post office. I don't know how it will work sending an aerosol can across the border under an "Orange alert". We may be able to work something out though. Ken

Just couldn't wait huh?

Night time? Did you have the heater and wipers going by any chance? How's battery/alternator? No relay for the tail lights but seperate relays for the headlights. Sounds like maybe the headlight switch is going out. Are you near any of the other board members? Maybe you can find a junk yard on Friday. Try the switch and see if that helps.

Jon, he's got an '88, single port injection. Unless of course it's been modded. Besides, no MAF on a carbed model.

I would just use the 4WD D/R 5sp. The RX trans is a 3.70 and the gear ratio makes it more for highway then for rally type driving. The LSD can be changed to a 3.90 ratio. Again, just my opinion.

If this is for your rally vehicle then the high end HP from the turbo is the ticket. If it's for an offroader then the webered EA81 is the way to go. EA81stock=73hp EA81T stock=90HP EA81 with weber and exhaust=est. 90HP EA81T with airbox mods and exhaust=guess110HP The thing to consider is the torque curve. If you are running wide open rally type driving the turbo will stay in the power curve and produce power there. If you are running off road where the RPM's are lower then the the Weber is where you will see the most benefit. Trying the search function brought up quite a few topics. Some relevant and some not. But it should make for interesting reading. These are the posts that Weber found. And the EA81T*

When the waterpumps were replaced did you replace the o-ring on the pipe that fits into the pump?

Read the article I posted. It will answer the questions you have.

All or most batteries made today have date stamps on them. Is there any branding visible on the battery Mick?

2 members have H-6 Brats. I see them do the sort of rallying he wants to do and they are not as competitive. I know that the original WRC cars were Legacy's. But, did anyone notice how fast they dropped it when the Impreza came out? If you put the Legacy and Impreza side by side and compare there really is no need for this discussion. The XT6 is a good option. The 2.2 turbo transplant is also a good option. You can turbo a 2.5 N/A motor. It is being done here Rallitek The car will aid you in performance but only seat time will make you competitive. If you go with a stock Impreza, even a 1.8, you will be able to run in the lower classes and gain experience before you force yourself into an open type class.

I just dealt with this exect thing at the junkyard yesterday. Bolt broke off inside the manifold. Penetrating oil doesn't work well because it does nothing for the rust that is holding the bolt in place. I exposed some of the board member to some stuff called "Yield". It actually eats/dissolves/removes/softens however you wish to describe it. Edrach found a distributor and his company bought some and he resold to a few board member. Back to the point. I spray the solution into the hole of the offending bolt. Let it sit for a few minutes. The slowly began to twist the manifold back and forth. Then, gently placed a pry bar under the manifold while twisting. It came off with a little work. Now I didn't mess with the bolt after words because I was just after the manifold. I'm not sure if anyone from your area got any of this stuff. I have a couple extra cans. But it is expensive by what you are probably used to. $13.00 a can. It lasts a long time. I have two cans that lasted almost three years. There are a couple less destructive ways to remove a broken/frozen bolt. Small propane torches work well. They don't get hot as fast as gas type. Heat-cool-heat-cool approach can give good results. Cutting it off flush with the block and drill out then use an E-Z out also produces good results. There is enough room in the block there to install a Heli-coil if neccessary. What ever you decide to try go slow and be patient. Otherwise the results could be catastrophic.

Just keep this one. I forgot to check, sorry. I'll get it this weekend and post it for you. I think I can take pics of at least three of the drivelines. I don't know what it would take but I have a custom driveline that was from my Maroon Hatch. Shipping would probably be very expensive a long waiting. Plus, I need at least $200.00us for it. Ken

They could have also installed the axle 180' out. The hole is off-centered. If that is the case it will be a biatch to get ot out. Take Ed's advice and try the other end if you haven't yet.

Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-trans swap

If it is a Loyale then yes. Contact PK Davis at Ozified.com

They've been running the EJ22 since '90 in the Legacy and since inception of the Impreza I believe. The EJ22T will take the most abuse but I don't think they ever put it in the Impreza. And the Legacy is kind of big/heavy for rally. At least to compete with the Imp's and WRX's The 2.5RS Imp's are starting to come down in price. There are ton's of aftermarket support for those.