Qman

Morgan, then take a week or so and come out to WCSS6. It will be bigger and better than all before it. Should be some notible members in attendance. Details are getting closer to being solidified and then we will announce the date and location.

You will need to mod the engine crossover to accomodate the turbo's up-pipe. You'll understand when you go to put it in.

The turbo back exhaust is a piece of cake. You have to modify the cross-over(front side). If you are planning all of these mods then one more isn't gonna be a big deal at this point. It would have been benefiacil to know this the first time. It sounded like you were just going to swap turbo's.

Facts about EA82 model vehicles, The wheel bases are the same. The U-joints are not "replacable"(yet). All drivelines for EA82's are interchangable if the trans is the same. If the trans is not the same you can swap the rear half but not the front(thanks for the memory trigger Miles) As far as the joints not being servicable. They aren't as they sit. You will need to go to a driveline shop to get this done but they will remove the stock joints and install a new servicable joint with zerk fittings. This probably won't be cheap. But the benefits are that you can now lube your joints(longer life) and replace them yourself if they ever go bad again.

Not the disty screw the rotor screw. This is a small copper/brass colored screw that keeps the rotor from turning inside the disty. Pop the cap and see if the rotor spins and then if that is OK try to start the car and verify that the rotor turns with the motor.

Corky is right on all statements. That price is cheap. They get a G note to rebuild them for you. If you can get the parts and are comfortable doing the rebuild your self you could do 5 + and still not have spent what some charge for one. Converting to a WRX turbo is alot of work. Been working/watching Tex on his conversion. You can't just swap exhaust it has to be modified to accept the turbo.

Do the repair, DO NOT BEND THE TABS!! The air gap is critical to performance. Fix the one you have or get a suitable used one.

Make sure to either pull the rear axles or unbolt the driveline from the diff if using a tow dolly with a 4WD.

All GL/loyales share the same wheel base. It will work fine. The deciding factor is that they share the same trans. You can't mix auto and manual drivelines.

The difference is in bore size. I believe all the rest is the same. I'm sure you can use the larger one in place of the smaller one. It is only 1/16" difference in bore.

Corky used all EJ gear. No adapter was used. Jerry has the only adapter that I know of currently.

Do you log in to post or do you log in to the board? If you aren't logged in you can't see the marketplace. Log in and then check the menu's and you will see the marketplace. I know your post is there. I'm sorry to say but there just isn't a large following for the Justy in the states.

The return line goes to the stock location. For the vent line from the canister I just left it open. The line comes out near the fuel filter. I'll get another pic or two later.

The gen1's can be lifted. They can become very capable off road. They can be a bit more expensive to maintain. To do it right the rear suspension will need to be upgraded. Easiest would be to use a gen2 rear torsion bar setup. The 1600 will work but it takes a lot to do it.(right Jared?) Sounds like to perfect candidate to me, rusted and neglected. It will require more funding then doing any other generation Sube but could be a very unique vehicle. I would upgrade to the 1800 and D/R 4sp. Then add a Weber after you get it road worthy. 10" lift looks cool but is it really neccessary to offroad with? 6" will get you almost anywhere you want to go. Sounds like your budget is going higher every time you post. The bigger you go the more tire you're going to want to stuff in there. As the tire increases the power will decrease unless you start upgrading the motor. This is read as more $$$$$. Try taking smaller steps with your modification ideas. Work your way up and you will find the right size lift and other modoifications that will fit what you will be doing. Much easier to go forward then backward.

+ = black wire - = yellow wire

Block heater plug. 3 wire connector with a boomer-rang shape?

Perfect steps. The only thing to add is; drain the fluid first.

Better yet... Mike leads one. He plans the time and place. Then he has to be there. May tends to be a good time for camping and access yto the snowy areas. Higher elevations like Evans and Naches will need a few more weeks to thaw usually. OK Mike, give us a plan!!

Why must we push our own opinions onto others. Why not ask why instead of busting his balls? Why didn't people have the same response to Brian when he stated he was going to "carve up" a turbo wagon? He isn't carving the Brat, only the motor. I have owned EA81 Turbo's and they aren't power houses but stronger than n/a EA81's. These aren't big $$ collectibles and if he does do it, it will only make the remaining ones a little more valuable. Let's cut people some slack.

Did the rear placard state GL10? I believe the '83's had the options available but didn't have the actual GL10 label. You could order the power options without the digi. I have an '88 turbo wagon here right now that is a GL with out the digi. Different model but same idea.

Mine has done that before. If you can roll in either direction try that. If not, you may want to try raising the front to take pressure off of the drive train. If neither works try starting it and attempting to move it. It will probably try to die but just give it a little more gas to keep it running. Then put the clutch in and try to force it out. It may take a few attempts but one of these should work.

Thanks for pointing that out Caleb. Stock tires are only 23". You can run any size tire you want on your Sube. However, the larger the diameter the worst your gear ratio ends up being. Example, a stock ratio with stock tires is 3.90. By adding 185/70R14's you change the gear ratio to 3.75. The idea behind the transfer case mod is to lower the crawl ratio. If you are not into REAL hardcore off-roading it will not do much for you except drain you bank acct. It will add more pressure to the rest of the drive train. But it allows you to basically get out and walk next to your rig on the trail while it is running/driving.

That's what I'm thinking. And it could be the clutches binding and popping that he's hearing. I don't think it would slip enough to not bind the drivetrain.

The main difference is the angle off the cross member. They point more forward. I believe the length is the same.