Qman

'84 was good but the hydraulic motor w/ 4sp D/R from '85+ has to rank there as well. Besides, you can't tell them apart by sight. Only by color really.

1985 was the last year they were in the back, officially.

It used to be!

This is a good post! It shows the passions are still alive. It also shows we can disagree without going overboard. All is good.

It was an out and out blast. That trail was a combination of Evans, Walker, Rubicon and Elbe. A little bit of everything. We're gonna be smelling more burning dirt on that run. You guys better bring spares, lots of spares! Here's a pic of the guys we ran with. The one on the ground has 42" tires!!

I know it was E. Neccessity sometimes outweighs reason. If he does it with stock parts he can make it right again.

Unrealistic expectations? I heard those same words when I talked about lifting my Subaru and making it into an off-roader. Things like it can't do that to what a waste of time to it'll never be able to climb anything. I heard the same words again when I said I wanted to hop up an EA81. You can't do it, it'll never work, blah, blah, blah... I bet Delts cams in Tacoma is real glad I didn't listen to any of that either. Because I built it, it runs great and because of that Delta has sold quite a few cams to board members who are also really glad they did it. $1500.00 for a 14 sec. car? Maybe where you are from but around our area you'll never touch one of those for that price. As Caleb said, true performance is not based solely on straight line speeds and times. That's why they test 1/4 mile, skid pad, 0-60 and 60-0 and slolom. Many things make up a good performance car. Handling is the most significant thing. And it is also a good idea to do some of these things to a Subaru. Why you ask? Because it sounds like he is younger and looking to learn. What better to learn on than something that isn't costing him an arm and a leg to start with? Like I said, let the guy experiment with his car. You don't have to like it, you don't have to drive it but you should let him be.

I would offer up a tranny but you can't get much further away. To make the auto work will require the auto crossmember plus the strut rod plates. The manual plates will not work for an auto. Do you know what the trans came out of? Give the guy a little slack. At least he didn't scrap it because the trans went out. It's still motoring down the road(or will be) and the original 4wd can be put back in at a later date. Don't modify it, just get the correct automatic parts and you'll be able to put it back to "Stock" eventually.

I might be available. It just depends on timing. I have a few irons in the fire at this time. The one thing is you'll have to come to me. I don't do mobiles any more. And as far as the mess goes. We got it running and adjusted except for a small timing issue. I work graveyard and it was waaaaay past my bed time when we got done. So, Greg cleaned up the hoses and lines when he got home. We had already disconnected the vaccuum sources so there were no vacuum leaks. Just kind of messy.

A KIA huh? Try answerring his questions instead of beating him down. And if someone doesn't know how to improve the performance then they probably shouldn't reply to this post. Blacklabel, There are many things that can be done to improve on what is a very reliable and economical design. Telling someone to not give their car love is just plain wrong. This is not the first time I have seen this. The Hitachi carb is designed to be an emmissions device. A simple addition of a Weber and ignition upgrade of NGK plugs, 7.7mm wires or better, upgraded coil are good starters. The exhaust on these is critical. Exhaust leaks rob power. It also effects drivabilty. The average exhaust shop won't do modified exhaust. Look around and don't get discouraged when someone tells you no. I have a guy local to me that will upgrade your exhaust but it's not cheap. Heep just had is done by the same guy and can tell you cost if you PM him. If you can get the parts that have been desribed above I can assist you in the installation of them. XSNRG is in the Olympia area and he may be able to lend you a hand as well. Try not to let the negative responses detour you. It won't be a 14 second 1/4 mile racer but it can be improved to give you mild performance and get you where you need to go. Mind you, you can improve the performance to be much improved but it requires alot more money than it sounds like you want to spend. Good luck and contact one of the local Puget Sound guys to help you out.

I know a guy running a Hi-Po XT6 running about 240HP. To my knowledge he hasn't exploded a tranny yet. The XT6 may have a HD trans compared to the EA82's.

To be as nice as possible the adapter set up for the EA82's is under engineered at best. But the DFAV(VW application) is definitely a good fit. Zero problems with the power steering and other components. Another pic

I need any info for these sites. Does anyone have any leads to share?

I have done the rear wagon before. I used the string method and it worked quite well. I found that it is much easier to have an assistant when doing it though. Same installation instructions but using a string around the bead of the gasket. Have your assistant apply light pressure from the outside.

Sideways, I just looked the parts up to veirfy and they call for the same part numbers for 91-92. While your information may apply to Canadian models or whatever. I am of the understanding that the 2.2 turbo's are all closed deck engines with forged internals and oil squirters. That is why they seem to last so long and there are not that many for sale. They just last.

Scary ain't it. Oh, I remember the dent from the "Shark tooth":eek: Also remember the look on people's faces when we went up the trail. That was a fun run. The maiden voyage of the Hatch.

What? Ask any of the people that have followed my '92 Turbo Legacy. BTW, mine is a wagon and auto. I have no problem keeping up with my buddy in his Impreza. Corners or straight aways, doen't matter. The clutch can be expensive, there are many different types to choose from. You may want to suck it up and buy a higher end clutch kit. A sport clutch is a good diea with these if you plan to drive it hard. If you are going to pull the motor make sure you do the T-belt while it is out. Unless you got somekind of documentation stating that it has been replaced I think it is a good bit of insurance. Good snag Brian. I noticed that the craig.list had stated the price was $1200. Brian, make sure to use the cruise on the highway. They seem to have a soft spot for 80 mph. I find mine there all the time.

Hmmm, mine doesn't have a dent? J/K

I have 14 1/8" under my diff. It's like I tried to teach you at Reiter. Finesse and patience, and checking the area before you jump in. Be glad that whatever you hit was round and not sharp. You'd be looking for a tank now if it had been.

Don't hit shtuff!!

Nice picture :-\ The answer to your question is 1, 3, 2, 4. If you follow the wire back from #1 cyl in the drawing you'll see where the rotor will need to point. I would suggest picking up a repair manual for your vehicle. Basic info can be gotten from any of the published repair manuals. Factory Service manuals will be very precise but will cost alot more. Good luck.

Yep, three years on my design. Not even a hint of bending.

I've probably got one in the tire pile. Full-sized or space-saver. Email me if interested. You pick it up and it's free.

That wouldn't have happened if the cable had been routed correctly. It should have been routed under the column and hoses. Very common mistake though. I have seen it done that way a couple dozen times at least.