88SubGL

What about taking a long drive, where everything gets hot and then trying to remove it. You mentioned trying to heat it up, but you would have to heat up all of the diff fluid as well. Just a thought.

A wiring diagram would be extremely helpful. You tested the fuses and fusible links, not just by looking at them correct? You used a meter or test light?

That was what I was thinking about as you described the process.

I replaced the front axle on my son’s 2017 Legacy and it’s super easy. No alignment necessary if you undo the lower ball joint from the control arm and then just pop it out. Probably the most difficult thing is separating the ball joint from the control arm. YouTube removing lower ball joint and you’ll see what I mean. It’s more difficult for me to describe it than for me to do it. That’s weird. I’ve replaced rear brakes and a rear hub on two 2017 Legacy’s and never had a problem. I wonder if the 2018’s are different?

Most only know how to replace parts anymore. Hard to find someone who really knows their stuff.

You can use a cereal box to make those gaskets. Done it many times with no problems.

DMV always seems to be a pain. Glad you got it worked out.

The best way is to compare the wiring diagrams for both distributors. Of course, if you don’t know if ‘87 distributor is off a carburetor or fuel injected car, that might make it more difficult. But I don’t know if there was a difference between the two.

If you’re going to flip the engine, shoot carb cleaner in the holes. It should wash it right out.

You could try using a shop-vac.

I love the technical terms used in the illustration. Haha.

You may have to backtrace your wiring to find out where you are loosing power to the distributor or coil. Check the fusible links, both ends, power going in power going out.

First thing you need to know is why was the car parked, sitting for 20 years. Second, distributor cap off and try starting, to if the rotor is turning. If it isn’t, then you have a broken timing belt.

I, personally, would not worry about the temp gauge. To me, that’s where I would want it to be, about the middle. I have never owned an EA81, but my ‘04 Nissan, my daughter’s ‘02 Outback and my wife’s ‘17 Legacy, all run in the middle.

Glad you got it worked out. To hot not to have a/c.

Was the air in the cabin getting cold? If so, it sounds like something in the wiring or possibly a low pressure switch, but I’m not an a/c tech by any means.

What! I can’t believe everything I read on the internet? Haha.

From what I can see, that car looks surprisingly solid. Nice find!

Have you taken this thing to a muffler shop and let them take a look at it? They’re probably going to be in the position to tell you what’s going on.

Just me personally, but I run the timing at whatever the engine like’s best. To me, the factory gives you a starting point. I’m sorry, I know that doesn’t answer your question.

Just a guess, but you probably need to look at ones for, perhaps ‘82-‘84, to make sure you get gaskets for an ea81.

Both ‘17 Legacy’s have eyesight and all 3 have electronic parking brakes.

I’ve done front and rear brakes on my ‘15, ‘17 and my sons ‘17 Legacy’s and I’ve never had any issues afterwards. Maybe an Outback thing. On these 3, I replaced pads and rotors.

I don’t remember the ‘02 Subaru’s having drl’s. I know you can leave the headlights on and they turn off when you either turn off the ignition or turn them off at the switch.

You’re in NJ, how much rust?