88SubGL

Wow! That’s a pain.

Were those NGK’s from Amazon? If so, they may not be genuine NGK’s.

What about the fusible links? Are they good?

You really need to figure out where you’re losing power. Did you actually test the fuses? Are you getting power to the fuses? If you’re getting power to the fuses, are you power out of the fuse box? If so, are you getting power to the switch? Is power coming out of the switch? Check the various connectors, especially the ground.

I agree 100%. Still haven’t started it. My daughter’s car, so I’m not in a big hurry.

Run diesel grade oil, it has the higher ZDDP levels. Example: Shell Rotella.

Do you have emissions inspection’s where you live and if so, does it include a visual inspection? My thought is, take it and get it inspected, because it’s old enough that the kid doing the inspection is not going to know what to look for on a car that old anyway. What’s the worst they can do, fail the inspection and then you can worry about it.

Not the answer I was hoping for, but it’s the answer I expected. I’ll give it a shot once it warms up. I’m not sure I’ll have enough room to between the heater box and steering column. This is a concern as well.

I guess Moosens got lucky back in 2022, in 2025 I’m not so lucky. My daughter’s ‘02 Outback’s heater core is leaking. I know this is probably a dumb question, but is it possible to replace it without removing the dash? Can the screws holding the pipes on be removed and then be able to slide the core out? I really don’t want to pull the dash out.

Here’s a shot of pump setup.

That is one clean engine compartment! While I have never done the conversion you’re wanting, I will say, probably the hardest part would be removing and installing the rack. I just looked back at the pictures I took when I changed the clutch on my ‘88 and the rack is buried.

It’s a good possibility that the throttle shaft has play in it, which is causing the throttle to hang open. It’s a 40 year old carburetor and no doubt worn. You can try hosing down the carburetor, especially around the throttle shaft, with carburetor cleaner. It might help it.

Yes. When the idle mix screw is turned in, you richen the mixture. With vacuum leaks it leans out the mixture.

What’s it doing or not doing?

Is it burning it or leaking it?

Replacing the bumper cover may hide most of the damage. You really need to know what you’re doing though, when you start cutting and welding on a unibody car.

Time to break out the test light. Turn the key to the position, accessory or on, that you’re wanting power and find the fuse that is powered when it’s in that position. I don’t suggest hooking it to any of the engine related systems.

Nice car. Vintage looks with EJ power, awesome!

That sounds like an awesome build. It would be nice to see pictures of the rest of the car.

I did read it and it was not clear. Maybe adding the words dash or instrument panel would have made it clearer.

So your 4 ways flash but your turn signals, the lights come on but don’t flash? If that’s what’s happening, I would suggest taking the 4 way flasher unit and swapping it with the regular turn signal flasher and see if it works. It won’t cost you anything if doesn’t make a difference.

Of course, that could be a non-interference engine and in that case, I have no idea.

Did it run after the new timing belt? Was it running good before the timing belt was changed? If it was running before the timing belt change, I’m guessing that the belt was installed incorrectly and it bent a valve on each of those cylinders, thus no compression.

Without pictures, it’s hard to know, but it sounds like most of the damage is to pieces that bolt on. If the radiator support is bent, you might be able to use a come-a-long and a tree to help straighten it out.

Wow! I wish I had a garage that big.