88SubGL

If you don’t feel any play in the hinges, then it’s probably the door adjustment. Long doors can be a pain that way. I did paint and body work for years and when I first started, my uncle who started doing bodywork when they still used lead, taught me how to adjust them. Take a short piece of 2x4 and place it 6-8 inches from the front of the door jam, between the rocker and the door, and kind of push up as close the door against the 2x4. Do it two or three times and check and see if there’s any improvement. Don’t go crazy with the pressure. Used to have to do this on ‘70’s Chevy’s, there hinges were welded to the body, no bolts to play with.

Do you have power to the small wire on the starter? Start there and work your way back. It could be the ignition switch, not the part where key goes in, but the electrical connection.

What’s with the funky spare tire? It’s not a Bronco.

Awesome job! No wonder your daughter wants to claim it in 6 years.

Nice work! I never thought of New Zealand as being a rust prone area. Shows how much I know.

The machinist that I use, told me that on a Subaru, all you have to do is look at the valves wrong and they bend. At the time he had about 6 sets of Subaru heads sitting there. He also said that the valves are not expensive and he charges $250-$300 to recondition a set of heads.

Can’t wait to see this finished. Really cool project.

That engine is so easy to pull, there’s no way I would do it in the car unless I had no other choice. Kudos for getting it done.

I guess it would depend on how solid it is. If it’s rusty, I wouldn’t even consider it.

This may be a dumb question, but is the bulb burned out on the BMW?

I don’t know about the XT, but my 6 cylinder 2005 Outback had a 5 speed automatic. I’m pretty sure all n/a 4 cylinder cars had the 4 speeds.

I would say, if you’re wanting to do the EJ swap sooner than expected, go with the nitrous. At least you should have some fun before the swap.

Nice looking DL! Especially with 250k on it.

Just my opinion, but the first thing I would do is replace the fuel filter. I assume it has the external, under hood filter. According to what you wrote, it hasn’t been replaced in 200,000 miles, not even when the fuel injection service was done? It may not help your problem but it won’t hurt it.

Any possibility of having a new core put in the original radiator? I’m sure it would last much longer than most any aftermarket radiator.

I think Subaru gave you the wrong part. It should be a direct replacement, that’s why they ask for the vin.

WOW! Never seen anything like that.

Unless oil is running out the timing cover about as fast as you pour it in, run it till it dies. As big and heavy and as many bolts as that cover has, I wouldn’t mess with it.

I’m guessing that Subru’s don’t use brass synchro’s in there transmission’s, otherwise GL5 mt oil wouldn’t be recommended, would it? I know that for my Nissan truck transmission’s, it’s only GL4, because it does have brass synchro’s. What I use is Valvoline Syncromesh Manual Transmission Fluid. Works great, smooth shifting summer or winter, even in single digit temperatures.

Does that car have the cvt transmission, if so, could it have hurt the transmission when it cut off on the interstate?

Hey, I was right for once. Glad you found the problem.

I found that had happened on a Nissan engine I was rebuilding and I was able to get one from the dealer. I don’t know if Subaru is the same but the whole piece is replaceable on the Nissan, the ball and spring is all in a cylinder that comes out. If it is, I think it could have been used in the EJ’s as well.

WOW! I think the next time it’s fixed, I would drive it straight to another dealer and trade it. To many problems with this car. I don’t mean to be negative, but wow!

I don’t see any pictures.

You could take it to a radiator shop and see if they can clean it for you.