gbrand

worst case-I've been there-twisted oil filter off until nothing but base plate remained-stuck of course. Got screwdriver, and hammer-scored a small notch in edge of said base plate and hammered until lossened-of course force was directed counterclock wise to unscrew. Not on a subie but issue the same.....

Check purge solenoid resistence-bet you find yours is infinite(open) To see if that is realted to your problem can plug the vac hose and install a 10 Ohm or so resistor to "simulate" a good solenoid. wattage rating needs to be 14.4 watts or better. prolly series-parallel some from RS will work. If you are ggetting multiple codes after clearing them, may want to check alternator if no obvious problems....

Soob or Roo

As far as the "oil squirt" not working on a horizontal engine i beg to differ 1) theory-the oil will "squish" around the rings as the piston goes up and down-and provide a better seal if the rings are worn.Think about it-by the same logic the "oil squirt" shouldn't work on a V8 or any engine where the cylinders are not vertical. And that is not the case. 2) practice-When the EA71 in my 80 wagon started running like crap one day, I limped it back home and ran a compression test. 20 psi in one cylinder, others fine. Not ever hearing the "oil squirt" won't work, I tried it and comp in the bad cyl raised to 60psi-grrrrrr was hoping for a bad valve.........Professional engine rebuilder diagnosed problem after teardown to rings losing thier tension/tempering from thier heat treating. Unfortunatley they couldn't ever get thier act together to rebuild the engine so I picked up the parts(no charge) and dropped in a crate engine.

They are never designed to be a good deal ON THE AVERAGE. My cars have all been boughtused so have no personal experience. And some warrenty companies have very bad reputations for actually paying claims. If you decide to consider one, read paperwork and check out warrenty company VERY carefully

Sedan. Gray , usually dirty, faded "University Missouri Rolla" sticker on back. Wifes DD, she had clients all over metroplex. I'm usually driving the Sunfire, green

Can't help you on diagnosis, wipers on my 91 never given me a problem. But for parts check out the market place forum, I just got stuff from BlackBart and Andrewp724 who were parting out early 90's Legacys. Also don't forget the W/W switch and motor contacts when diagnosing problems. But if one is working, and the other not then prolly mechanical. Let us know what you find out

Cool! post pix and I'll watch for you on the roads. If you see a faded gray Legacy it prolly my wifes....I just took a job in South Arlington so will be out and about more.

forgive my ignorance on this model, is this a hydraulic or a cable operated cluthc. Sounds like a slave or master cyl going out on a hydraulic clutch. If a cable operated clutch, is the cable hosed ? In any case, have a friend push on the clutch pedal while you watch the fork-bet you see little or no movement. Let us know what you find

On my legacy the noise turned out to be the idler pulley for I think the A/C belt. Pulled off, and let some oil dribble/soak in the cracks of the bearing while horizontal, made squeak disappear. Repeat every 50000 miles or so....

here is the text from the post..I had copied it in an email mtsmiths Registered User Posts: 1 (12/6/01 9:29:06 am) Reply Persistant 'Check Engine' light The check engine light came on in the '00 Lagacy I just bought for the Pretty One. Just after it rolled 100,000 mi the check engine light came on, she read the manual and found the she had failed to tighten the gas cap, which will send a fault signal. We disconnected the batterey overnight and the light went out. It came back a day or so later, so we took it to the local Subaru dealer and had the fault read. They say it's a faulty catalytic converter signal, but can't find anything wrong with the cat. Dealer says that even tho the cat seems fine, if the signal comes back the only way to get rid of it is to replace the cat to the tune of $600+. It's come ba-aaaack. Since I know the cat is OK I really don't want to pay $600 to turn off an idiot light. On the other hand - Now we won't know if anything else goes wrong that we *should* be paying attention to, since the light is always on. I'll hit the Subaru board, but anyone here got any ideas? THANX gbrand Registered User Posts: 177 (12/6/01 10:14:01 am) Reply | Edit Re: Persistant 'Check Engine' light From what I understand the way the ECu sees the cat bad is that the second Ox sensor , behind the cat, mointors thecat, not used for controlling engine I am told. So, Oxygen content in air past cat should be less than at upstream sensor(in manifold?) as CAt should be using Oxygen to burn up partially burned CO and HC. O2 sensors put out a voltage that gets higher as the oxygen concentration gets less, so typically read 0 Vols in air, and 100-200 millivots in normal operation. My truck downstreamsensor was reading well over 300 millivolts, saw at emission test there was 0% oxygen in exhaust. SO, if measure output of sensor and compare to up stream side, if same the cat ain't working, if higherthe cat is. Or downstream sensor is bad. Check after engine has warmed up, but don't replace blindly. The three or 4 wires are heater voltage, heater gnd(will be to case if 3 wire sensor), signal outut, signal gnd. So measure between signal output and signal gnd and see what you get. Of course diconnecting and measuring with engine running will set code for O2 sensor, so clear it later or someone will sell you an O2 sensor you don't need mtsmiths Registered User Posts: 9 (12/11/01 3:15:47 pm) Reply Check engine Light Follow-up Thanks for all the comments, especially to gbrand. I got the car registered with Subaru national, who promptly informed me that the car had not responded to recall WXW80 error reporting by front 02 sensor - resulting in *you guessed it* check engine light. I called the dealer that had diagnosed a bad cat and asked, "Don't you diagnose a bad cat by comparing 02 sensor read-outs?" he said "Yes". "If the car had a bad front sensor could that lead you to deduce a bad cat?" he said "Yes". "Did you verify recall WXW80?" ... slight pause he says "Is that the front 02 sensor recall notice?" *I* said "Yes", he said "No"; and scheduled the recall replacement. The moral of the story is ... the Subaru dealer was fully prepared to sell me an unneeded $800.00 cat converter, without checking a known recall, and of course during that repair they would have replaced both sensors, so I would never have known. I don't know if they are crooks or idiots, but I sure don't trust them either way. I sure wish my indy mechanic that keeps our '87 alive could work on this NewGen Soobie.

Need to check-some of the cats and/or O2 sensors were covered under a recall, cant recall the years or find the post-perhaps lost when the board was migrated.. ALso there is a 8 yr/80000 mile warennty ofn the cat by federal requirements

For some reason my 91 Legacy not nearly as bad as my 80 wagon was. Got the replacement techniquie on the 80 down to where I didn't even remove the axle from the car. Just pop the spring pin, disconnect the sway bar, tie rod and ball joint or A-Frame bolt. Then pull the hub outward until half shaft end would drop to the ground(or hang there). would take off boot and joint, clean and regrease on workbench then reinstall under the car.

check plug wires with ohm meter and visually too. If the set is old it can cause misfies as well.

Never had a sube as a rental-but they do exist. My brother came to Dallas in early 90's for a two week school, came over to visit a couple times and was driving a subaru rental-said it was what they gave him. Don't remember exactly what flavor it was. Also a good buddy who is a field engineer and travels a lot was complaining-on a trip to michigan or montana in snow season they gave him a rear wheel drive ford boat, a crown vic I think-and for his trip to far South Texas, he gets a Subaru Outback, AWD of course.

If it is like my 80 was you need to replace the cable assy. happened to me twice, in these parts is was an dealer only item, but at least they stocked them so didn't have to wait for a a special order to come in.

The A/C quitting first seems strange-would not be symptom of timing belt unless entirely curcumstancal. A compression check would reveal if tming belt was bad-prolly get close to zero compression in all cylinders if broke. Perhaps alternator is bad letting battery run down? Put voltmeter accross battery and see what it reads, 12.5++ OK, much less it may be too low to start. Hard to diagnose by remote control but that is where I would start. Let us know what you find out

air release hole in radiator? are we talking about the "air bleed" plug on the top of the radiator for purging air after a coolant drain and refill? If so I would check, the plastic ones can crack and leak like mine did-I replaced with a metal oil drain plug. Did your car overheat? FYI I did see yesterday at Autobone an additive to detect combustion gases(meaning blown HG) in your collant. Let us know what you find out.

Well, who here has ever thought about speaking up against a new idea championed by the bosses? and risk being fired or not considered for thier next promotion while having a family to feed? As bad as many ideas are they get ramrodded by high paid consultants, managers, six-sigma experts and marketing experts and out on to the market place. Regardless of what I think of the Tribeca, I have never been afraid to voice my opinion to my employer(s) but see many smart, educated, experienced people afraid to rock the boat. And the experts can be dead wrong-anyone remember the "New Coke"?

Even a cheapo propane torch from a hardware store does wonders.....thats what I use.

Long shot-is there any possibility that once you stopped and sank into the sand there was simply not enough power to get going, hence the wheels not spinning. But then were just fine when got winched up onto the pavement. My Nissan truck will bog out in deep sand, esp if I stop and then try to get going again. Once I put the Transfer Case in Low it then crawls right out, know the subes are only single range. I never had my 80 4wd in deep sand but on a sh..load of ice and snow

heat.then spray with liquid wrench/pb blaster. repeat. then ty to loosen when warm. I dont know about your car, but on many the nut part is solidly attached so torqueing on it can be an exercise in futility,

on OBD One cars (up thru 94 or 95) they can be simulated with a resistor to keep the check engine light off if the coil is burned out. If that is your reason for replacement

Tribeca? Seats 7, AWD, don't know it the towing capacity is what you need. But I agree, dump the Suburban if you can....

As 2000 MY is OBD2, you will most likely need a scanner to pull the codes. many autoparts stores(autozone, etc.) will pull the codes for you free. make sure you get the actual code number(s0, not just the parts monkey's description of what he thinks is wrong and you need to buy parts for. A careful evaluation of the cooling system should reveal the problem, hoepfully not the dreaded head gasket.