calebz

Kevin. Upping the pressure doesn't really change how much is coming from the injectors.. It may help to push them closer to max output, but UNfortunately, I have a feeling you were pretty much already there. As far as differences in boost.. Humidity, temperature play a huge part in how high your car will boost.. 3 psi difference in different types of weather isn't really anything to worry about.

YOu have to use one that matches your motor. If you have an EA81, you must use an EA81 flywheel.

As long as they are both EA82 axles with the same spline count, you are good to go.. some are thicker than others beacuse of various drivetrain differences (4wd/2wd, auto/manual, Turbo/NA) Mixing and matching is ok as long as the spline count is right

I have never gotten new nuts or washers with reman axles.. and only once did I get a new roll pin. If the washers and nuts aren't trashed, theres no reason to not reuse them. Good luck trying to get new ones anywhere but the dealer. I tried a year or so ago and had no luck anywhere As far as the cotter pin, autozone or home depot should have some the right size.

EA82 - 25 spline - 4wd 5 speed turbo, 4EAT Turbo 23 spline - ALL 3AT (2/4wd, Turbo/NA), N/A 5 speed (2/4wd) Assuming you aren't using any turbo stuff, your EA81 axles should fit the EA82 transmission IIRC, you use the flywheel that matches the motor and the disc and PP that matches the tranny.

Someone here did it a year or two ago.. Archemitis maybe? IIRC, most of what was involved was a lot of pounding and swearing.

There are 2 sizes for the EA82 7-7/8th 2wd 8-7/8th 4wd and all turbo

If he/she is wanting to use as many new parts as possible, I have a set of springs from a 4wd wagon sitting in my garage. I pulled them off so I could use a different type of springs. They are in good shape and will pop right on to a new set of struts.

Don't think so, but I have been wrong before.. I think

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17562&highlight=GL-10 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12826&highlight=GL-10 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10932&highlight=GL-10 Search is your friend;)

1 - no one is going to abuse you for posting. Its nice to have you back;) 2 - the EGR code from te computer doesn't tell you whether the EGR itself is bad, it simply refers to the ERG control solenoid. If you ordered the actual valve, you may wanna rethink that.

Check out an older soob some time. No adjustment in the rear.. 2 wheel alignment;)

This should be a sticky.. Even I got stuck by this trouble with my first wagon:lol:

Absolutely.. if your tires are well matched and you're in a straight line, you shouldn't experience any binding and the difflock will help with traction from a launch quite a bit.

Tell your wife no 5-6k clutch dumps and the tranny should be fine. Clutch shudder and nasty fuel smell when it gets cold out on the other hand.....well.. perhaps they fixed that stuff by the time the 04s came out. Time for you to start spending some time at www.nasioc.com

Got a running car to put it on yet?

Might try Delta Cams in Tacoma WA.. Betting they have something. Hell.. they even have 2 different performance grinds for the EA82

86 = Part time 4wd Just pull the front axles and leave stubs in the front hubs. Keep it in 4WD from then on. You can weld the rear diff to.. enjoy your wheel hop when you go around a corner.

You bought an OEM sending unit for it? Just pull the hex plug mick described and screw the sending unit in. The hex plug is 8mm. should take about 5 minutes to accomplish the task No, the fact that the car was an auto is not why your check engine light is on. Pull the codes from the ECU to find out why the CEL is on. The transmission is not connected to the CEL at all. EDIT.. unless the auto was a 4EAT in which case, the VSS may cause a CEL Weird.. I did an auto to manual digidash swap and it was straight plug 'n play... even came from different year cars.. Time to bust out the FSM for whatever years of cars the dashes came from.

That may be true, but notice the qualifier "with easiest availability" TD04s are a dime a dozen here in the states. VF11s are quite a bit harder to come by.

That pretty much sums it up right there. So far from what I have seen, the TD04 is still the closest to a straight swap with easiest availability.

I have also used a similar system on aluminum heads and blocks. Never had one blow afterward, so it must work ok;)

Since it hasn't been answered yet, stock timing is 20BTDC

0 - Cluster swap - Thats easy.. takes about 45 minutes if you're lazy and have never done it before (Like me). 20-25 if you're in a hurry and know where everything is (like the rest of the world) 1 - TCU - No idea. Never seen one 2 - Neutral safety switch. Not connected to the ECU. Its a simple on/off starter kill switch wired into the shifter. As far as a 'nicer way' to deal with it. I suppose you could bring it chocolates and tell it what a wonderful thing it is, but I'm betting a jumper will be more effective. 3 - Pedal cluster. Be prepared for this to be the hardest part of the swap. The easiest way to do this is to completely remove the steering column. Also, beware of the little bracket that sticks off to the side with TWO 10mm nuts on it. 4 - Dunno about your car, but my car didn't have any of the right wiring to make any of this stuff 'plug n play'. I never bothered with the 4wd/difflock indicator lights *shrug*.. I know when the difflock is engaged and thats all that matters.. there are 5 wires on the difflock switch. You only need 3 of them to make it work . One is power in, two are power out to the switching solenoids. As fas as the solenoids themselves, each has two wires. One wire is power from the switch, the other is a ground.

if it has that many holes, and hasn't been inpsected in a long time, you have to wonder if it will pass inspection. Being the cheap skate I am, I would offer him $100 if it really is mechanically sound, or I would pass and lay down the cash for something you don't have to mess with.