calebz

Also, www.ausubaru.com .. the have more JDM stuf there.. for obvious reasons

Actually, part of the reason I posted was so he would see my sig.. combined with 88's sig and Brads sig, he should be able to get enough Ideas to keep him too busy to put one of those nasty rump roast traveties on his car..

Pick me up on the way

As far as I know there hasn't been a complete write up about the SPFI to turbo swap. Brad recently did exactly what you are talking about.. Its a lot of work. The smartest way to do it is to have a complete turbo car for parts.. YOu will need the ECU and complete engine harness, as well as the exhaust and crossmember. Lots of other stuff too.. Like money and time.

No, the part numbers are different.. This came up a while back and I actually posted the part numbers. It is 100% the pistons that make the difference between the ranges of compression in EA82 motors. IIRC, I posted P/Ns for 1987, as it was the only full production year with all three fuels systems in the US. Basically it is like this Piston tops: Turbo - concaved carb - Flat SPFI - convex

A little clarification The turbo stuff will NOT bolt on to a carb long block. It will however, work on a carb shortblock. You need to use the turbo heads and associated stuff.

Any of the 3AT trannies from cars with the same bidy style will fit. I have been told the turbo trannies are stronger, but no hard proof to back that up. Its hit and miss buying a tranny from a yard that everyone knows is already problematic. Check the governor, smell the fluids to make sure they aren't burnt. Personally, I would put in a 5 speed. Thats what I did with my 87 GL-10 TurboWagon.. it used to be an auto too

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23535

There aren't really any benefits to doing away with the EGR system on an SPFI system. In fact, it would probably do more harm than good. Confuse the computer, raise combustion temps. Personally I have never seen a code 55 on an SPFI car ( I had to go look it up) and without consulting my FSM, I don't have a quick fix recommendation for you. Standard troubles are the 34 and 35 EGRS and PCS What I would probably do to begin with is find the sensor in question and make sure the contacts are well maintained. That seems to be one of the biggest sensor issues on these old cars. I would follow that up by resetting the ECU and seeing if the code reappears. If I get some time later I will see if there is a more specific recommendation in the FSM.

Hmm. Never heard someone recommend against deadheading in short bursts. Thats what they taught us in school and thats whats been recommended by some of the best mechanics I have known (one or two of them here) as the best way to determine fuel pump pressure on the car. I have never seen, nor heard of damage or safety issues resulting from 3-4.5 seconds (2-3 diagnostic cycles on a subaru) of deadheading.. But then again, thats the beauty of this board. There are a lot of people that know a lot of things and a lot of different ways of doing them.

OMG!! Russ drove around without his cats !! You sir, are going to hell Seriously, Good work. You didn't say so, but am I to assume its pulls better at stock boost than the VF7?

The Snap-On man is your friend I think AutoZone carries them as well.. I like my Snap On though.. its old and still works great

HEY!!! You stole my car!!

Theres no other filter. 61-72 is the right pressure for an MPFI turbo car.. I am not sure if MPFI N/A is the same.. wouldn't surprise me though. When testing the pressure, be sure to pich off the return line going back to the tank . Without the return line piched, mine sits at about 32-35 psi.. with it pinched, I get 60-65 1: Pinch return line 2: connect green diagnostic connectors 3: Turn key to 'on' position The pump should cycle every 1.5 seconds or so.. after a couple of cycles, it will reach max pressure.

Not nearly as much as your safety inspections

Disconnect the coil wire.. pull #4 spark plug.. crank motor and see what shoots out of the hole.

Only in NaziLand... No safety inspections in Washington.. and Ebrake isn't part of the safety inspections here either.

Thats what my 87 and 88 injectors look like..(the ones with the restrictor cap still attached)

Based on the quality of the rest of the work, I would bet its a FWD 3AT But then again.. weren't there a few 89s that came with an AT?

Details on coilovers please.

Yes, same boost levels will still net better flow.. There will be some modifications required that would normally improve stock airflow anyway.. Exhaust mainly.. Not to mention doing the turbo upgrade involves some pipe rerouting, so theres no point in doing all that without an intercooler.. those two things alone will help a lot.. in combination with a better turbo, you will have a happy car.

Dammit That is all, Just Dammit

Yeah, thats weird.. Maximum idle is 1100, minimum cruise is like 2200, with 2500 being the norm...Was the test performed under load?

85 degrees here:banana:

Jackstands are your friend. Rubbing sound could be due to a mangled wheel bearing or a bent rotor.. possibly a bent backing plate.. For your sake I hope its a bent backing plate.. Scissor jacks are intended for side of the road tire changing.. nothing else.