TomRhere

Gravityman; I'd put the Battery and fuel cell in front of the Radiator, don't need no extra heat on either of those. Had simular thoughts on location of radiator for the ER-27 swap. Me, I'm thinking more of putting radiator where the tailgate is, and fab a louvered replacement for the tailgate itself. Not to worried about use of tailgate, I have "other means" of transporting items that would need that function available. If I have to fab a scoop of some sorts to direct air into radiator, so be it. This is going to be a form/function type of retrofit, not looking to win any awards for purtyness.

(quote Turbone) One thing about black, it sure shows the imperfections of the body. I'm finding dents and dings I never saw before:o (end quote) Yeah, Black shows everything... I love a Black car or Truck, but I'd never re-paint one that color again. To much time spent on getting panels straight and smooth, only to find you missed a spot AFTER you do a color coat. Black shows everything, magnafied atleast 30 fold...... But they do look good all nice and polished..........................

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/X-members/ Above link is to pics of all 3 X-members. The EA-81 is the complete system, then the EA-82, and ER-27. Measurements are as follows; Hole spacing, front to rear; EA-81 = 5-9/16", EA-82 = 5-9/16", ER-27 = 6-3/8". Hole spacing, side - side; EA-81 Front = 31-1/4", Rear = 29-11/16" EA-82 Front = 32-7/8", Rear = 31-15/16" ER-27 Front = 33-1/16", Rear = 31-7/8" A couple pics were taken of the x-members on-top of one another, just to show differences better than telling the law of the ruler. All measurements are to the nearest 1/16" and are not to be taken as word to build from. Let me know if you need more/better pics.....

Gravityman,, I have all 3 x-members out in the garage. I'll get some pics taken of them and get them up on my photobucket page. Can tell you that the front/rear spacing in the XT6 x-member is much different from the EA-81/82 holes. It's also shaped somewhat different than the EA-82 is.

Here's a pic of the differences between the EA-81 and -82 manifolds. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/EA-81EA-82Manifold2.jpg Here's the EA-82 in my '82 BRAT, before the Weber. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/underthehood.jpg Here's how close the engine is to the frame rails. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/EA-82framerailroom.jpg To put the EA-82 engine into an EA-81 vehicle is as follows; Pull the dead engine out of the vehicle following normal engine pulling methods. After engine is pulled, you need to move the Hill-Holder valve towards the firewall the distance of it's mounting holes, (front bolt in rear hole). Or, get another Tee fitting and remove the H-H from the system. Your call there. You also need to tweak the front most brake line on the bottom of the Master Cylinder, towards the strut tower. Be careful, not to much. This is to help disty clear the brake lines and stuff located there. You can use the EA-81 flywheel on the EA-82 engine with no problem. Only thing you need to do is sit one flywheel on top of the other, align the mounting holes and bolt them together. This is so you can transfer the timing marks over to the EA-81 flywheel. Make sure you do both the ignition and T-belt marks, it will make your life so much easier down the road. Use the EA-81 clutch stuff with the EA-81 flywheel and bolt that all back together. Keep all of the EA-82 clutch stuff around, so you can do the D/R 5-speed swap later.... When you're ready to drop the engine in, loosen the bolts for the brackets that hold the motor mounts to the engine. This will help you get the studs thru the crossmember. Once the studs are thru the X-member you can re-tighten those bolts. Before you tighten the lower nuts of the mounts, make sure the engine is centered between the frame rails. Only about 3/8" clearence as you can see by the link above. You need to swap over the temp sensor and oil pressure unit from the old engine. It's much easier to install engine if you pull the disty out 1st. Helps it clear the Master Cylinder during install. Miles Fox pulled the MC when he did one. Either way works, but disty is easier. Just be sure that you have engine at #1 TDC and mark disty prior to pulling it. Then get engine back to #1 TDC and drop it in after engine is in. You'll need the EA-82 Y-pipe. Fits the rest of the exhaust like it belongs there. You'll need to lengthen the 2 small wires from the coil to the disty, and you'll want the '85-'86 EA-82 disty if I recall things right. You'll need to lengthen the fuel lines to the carb. The EA-82 lower radiator hose fits the lower EA-81 radiator nipple like it was made for it. And you'll need another EA-82 lower hose for the upper radiator hose. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/EA-82lowerradiatorhosePre-trim.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/EA-82lowerhoseasupperhose.jpg You'll have to do some trial and error with the throttle cable and it's mounting. The person that installed the engine in mine cobbled things together, and it really didn't work right. Or, you can spin the Weber around 180* and do it like I did here in my EA-82 manifold with Weber on EA-81 engine swap. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/Step9throttlecablemount.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/Step8throttlelinkage.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/Step7Altbracketmods.jpg I think that covers it. Feel free to ask questions.

Been thinking along this same line myself, and started doing the measuring of things. It's been 2 years almost since I started this little project, and I'm not sure of where all my notes are right now. Things I do remember are; The front/rear spacing of the crossmember holes are the same. Yes, the EA-82 x-member is wider, so is the engine, but engine will fit between E-81 frame rails. The side - side measurments of the EA-82 x-member holes is not concentric front - rear vs the EA-81 x-member. To clairify, lets say the front set of holes are 1-1/2" wider than the ones on the EA-81. The rear set of holes are like 1-3/4" wider. It may be the fronts are wider, just throwing the difference out there for info. Using the EA-82 knuckle is the best and easiest way to do it. The EA-81 strut will fit it with no problem. You can use the EA-82 strut, but you need to do some modding of the EA-81 strut top to fit it on the EA-82 strut. Miles Fox has made mention of this a couple times, but I can't really recall what he said. Using the EA-82 knuckle keeps the tie-rod ends and ball joints of the EA-82, otherwise you have to modify things to use the EA-81 knuckle, mainly the tie-rods here. There's a difference in the taper where they fit into the knuckle, and a difference in how the tie-rod threads onto the inner tie-rod on the steering rack. Best just to keep as much EA-82 stuff as possible. You have to cut and re-weld the renforcment area of where the lower control arm attaches, (pivot bolt) to the x-member in order to use the EA-81 arm on the EA-82 x-member. This is due to the control arms being straight vs bent.

Manifolds will swap, but you'd be happier getting the adapter kit to mount the Wber to the EA-82 intake. EA-82 will fit into the car, it's tight, but no pounding of metal is involved. Had one in my '82 BRAT. I'm a little short on time this AM, otherwise I could post up here all the steps in doing the swap. I'll try to get back on here after work tonight.

I've had to go "out State" to find mine, 4 drivers - 2 parts vehicles. You're right though, Older Soobs are a rarity around this State. I've seen a couple of them while driving around, but they're few and far between. Can't comment about any Sales media to look through, I've got all mine from Members on here or another Club I belong to.

I'd go with the intake gaskets too. Mine did the "white smoke" thing if I drove more than say 50 miles then let it sit a while, then start it. Short trips had no affect on it. I had made my own intake gaskets, just to get engine running after swapping intake and installing Weber, and had the proper gaskets on order. When I pulled the intake to install the new gaskets, the home-made ones had blown out between the water passage and the intake port.

I take it that the block has been "washed away" in the area that the HG blew. You may be able to save it if that is the case. Talk to a local engine shop. They may be able to heli-arc some new aluminum in and re-machine the deck surface. You may have to have the welding done at a welding shop though, as not all engine shops have the capability of welding. I had to do that on a Toyota head that washed away between cylinders. Couldn't locate a replacement head, so I really had no choice.

You are correct, 145 ft lbs on the axle nut. Check to see if the backing plate for the brakes isn't bent. Check to see if the wheel rim isn't rubbing on the brake caliper. This will happen if someone put the wrong rim on. The EA-81 rim will bolt onto an EA-82, but it won't really clear the caliper, causing noise.

No real need to pull driveshaft, unless it's got an Auto tranny. Then, you'll just want to disconnect it from the rear diff and tie it up out of the way, coat hanger works good for this. Need driveshaft in the tranny to keep the gear lube/ tranny fluid in. As for getting a dead BRAT onto a tow dolly. Disconnect the coil wires so it won't fire off, and use the starter to get it up on the dolly. Again, this will only work if it's a manual, and you may have to put it into 4-low to climb the ramps. I have used a floor jack under the engine crossmember to lift front wheels, then back dolly under vehicle. Doing it this way, you have to align dolly by hand then hook it to tow vehicle. Also need to block rear wheels so it won't roll backwards on you. Then push dolly under front wheels using tow vehicle. Need a good spotter to do it this way, but it works. For the racing engine speed. Sounds as if your ASV grenaded on you and there's pieces of it in the carb. Pull air filter lid and take a look down the bore. Also check the large vacum line that goes to the Anti-backfire valve, (located on the DS strut tower). I've had one of those break, causing major vac leak. Engine wanted to do a 3G idle if started cold with choke on. Rubber hose from the valve hooks to a steel line on the backside of engine, that's where mine broke.

Yes and no. Check the link in my above post. Has most of the things needed done to install EA-82 manifold onto EA-81 along with a Weber.

6'2" & 225# here, and I fit just fine in the 2nd Gens I have. All have/had stock seats except the '82. Those have been recovered, but I still fit easily.

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/ Don't know if I'm to late with this, but that's how I did mine. If you have questions about any of it, feel free to ask.

Judging by your other thread, the engine has been replaced in this car. I can't help with the vacuum lines any. But pic 4 shows the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge in the dash, won't work for one with oil light set-up in the dash.

A lot of DIYers over look that bit when doing brakes, even some garages will just to get car done faster. One also wants to clean the backing plate and apply small dab of grease at the shoe contact points on the rear brakes.

Okay, 6 weeks later and I finally have time to do things about this issue. Actually, I had no choice in the matter, seeing as I tried to start the BRAT using the XT6 key and locked-up the key switch. DOH!!! The key switch is stuck in the "on" postion. I did manage to get the XT key out and can put the right key in, but it won't turn, Period... Anyways, in trying to rig something up, I pulled the connectors apart that feed the Ignition switch itself. Seems there was some heat being made there as I could see signs of melting. Not much dis-coloring of the White feed wire though. Used one of my spare switches so I could start the engine using a screwdriver. Not!!! Starter just wants to click now, barely moves the engine. Okay.... Cut the connector off the switch and the car side of the harness, and splice the ends together. Same thing as above. Starting to get a little annoyed. Start checking wiring system over, and find the middle Fuse-link had gotten hot at one time or another. Still whole, but covering was burnt. Replaced it with a good one, and tried starter again. No worky. Been starting engine by jumping the starter terminals. Got home from work today and wired in a relay to run starter solenoid. It starts from the switch now. I followed the diagram that Skip posted up on here, but I got the battery power feed right at the starter instead of running a wire back to the battery itself, same with the ground wire for the relay coil, just put it to nearest ground wire connection point. Seems that the Pink connector for the ignition, along with the one bad fuselink was most of my initial problem. Alt gauge will hold right at the line between the 8 and 18 volt marks, which I'm calling good. Gauge will still drop to 8, then climb back up slowly when I turn on the heater blower, thinking maybe I'll look into swapping in another blower motor. So,,, the score is; 1 repaired issue with the alt gauge, and 1 FUBARed ignition lock switch

The distance from the motor mount stud (that goes thru the crossmember) to the front of the crank pulley of an ER-27, is 17-1/2". You'll need atleast 18" from the crossmember slot, forward, on the car it's going into, just to get the accessory drive belt onto the pulleys. Which means you'll have to re-work the bottom of the radiator support some, or cut it out, and build a different, stronger bumper to tie the front frame rails together.

Strange one indeed... The only time I've seen an engine not circulate coolant was when I poured the anti-freeze in 1st and topped it off with water instead of mixing it before hand. The engine over heated, and the stuff never circulated. Can't see how anything could get into the coolant passges to block flow totally. Although that rice thing sounds reasonable, I'm sure you would've noticed something like that when you pulled the old pump off though. Even if, say a mouse could've gotten past the waterpump and built a nest in the block, there's more than one passageway thru the engine for coolant, and you'd have some flow, or atleast I'm thinking so. And yes, I have pulled/flushed a mouse nest out of an engine that sat without a freeze plug in it, (Chevy V8). Just don't see that happening on a Soob engine though, myself.

Nice score!!! I really like those old tubs. As far as weight, I'm thinking you're close, can't really recall though. I've moved a few, and they are hefty. The BRAT will hold it. Tubs about 5' at the base, before the slope starts, and it should fit between the wheel wells ok. I can't recall how wide the base of the tub is, but thinking about 24", some are 18" though. I've hauled my riding mower in mine, older 8hp-36" deck, and it's hefty in itself. Had to pull the deck and sit it lengthwise in the bed. The BRAT carried it ok, but she didn't like steep hills any. Wife was driving BRAT, and had Son with her, 125# for the Wife and 165# for Son, plus mower = oooff. I suggest a couple rimless tires under the tub to help cushion it, don't want to break the feet off. Best to remove the feet though, but not always possible.

Would still look at flasher as culprit, even more now as it's both sides giving trouble. Could be a wiring issue or switch issue, but bulbs and flasher unit be the easiest things to check first.

http://www.discountconverter.com/converters/universals.cfm Scroll down to #8015. Hi-flow with O2 bung, dual 2" ins and outs. They also have cats that look like the Subaru ones, have to have all the pipes bent though, as it's just the cat itself. I've seen them on the above linked sight before, but now I can't find a pic of one.

Kinda looks like the system I had on the Black BRAT, don't it Fox?? I used Xcelerator Turbo mufflers on mine instead of Bombs. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/dualsfrontview.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/Exhaustsideview.jpg

I would look to the flasher unit as the culprit here. Can't say as I've ever ran into a problem as you describe though, so not sure. Turn signal issues usually can be troubleshot by how they flash, or don't flash. Rapid flashing of the dash indicator, usually indicates a front bulb is out. Dash indicator "on", but not flashing points to a rear bulb out, or the flasher unit itself if the rear bulb is lit. The system will, (umm should), work normally if the dash indicator burns out. With that said, corrosion in the bulb sockets should aslo be looked for, especially if the bulbs are known to be good. Bad connection on either the front or rear of the system will act just like a blown bulb would.