TomRhere

Your wheel well looks good compared to what was under the side trim of that Wagon. Why the strut didn't rip out is beyond me. They had filled the whole side of it with foam, totally borked the seatbelt retractor. Floor repair looks good from the pic.

Been a few years ago, but a Member on here was having issues with blowing out the axle cups. Sort of remember his fix was putting a sleeve over the cups, welding it together, having them re-heat treated.

I should've gotten pics of what the parts Wagon looked like when I stripped it. It would make the rust holes on yours look good. Work so far is looking good. I so need a welder here... Liking the snorkel.

Specs for the pump appear to be in range for use. Cap off any vac ports that you pull a hose off and you can run engine with out the air box installed.

I am not convinced that the carb ones do the 'key on prime" like the FI ones do. Owned 4 BRATs and never heard the pump prime in them when I turned the key to "on". There is enough fuel in the float bowl to start the engine.

The oil pan can be dropped with the engine sitting in place. There are holes in the crossmember to access the rear bolts using a long #3 Phillips screwdriver. Welcome to the Board!

They will run with coil wired backwards, just not as well as they should. Going by the pic of the coil, I only see the disty's Black/White wire on the coil, along with the condenser lead. Is another B/W wire attached that's not visible in that pic angle?

Ok. Was out in the garage, un-buried my '82 BRAT to look at it's wiring. The Black/White wire from the harness goes to coil +, along with the Black/White disty wire. (That is the loose wire coming from your harness.) The Yellow harness wire goes to coil -, along with the Yellow disty wire. The condenser wire also goes there.

The Black wire attached to the air filter is a ground wire. I would move it to a more favorable spot. The Black/White wire is an ignition "Hot" wire. Reason you blow the fuse when it's grounded. Can't say what it should be attached to, but definitely not the body.

I feel your pain. Had my own issues with that tube wanting to leak.

NCA = They don't know what color the wire(s) are. Got to agree with GLoyale, what a mess.

The crank sprocket with dished area goes on first. The dished area is for seal clearance. Check the tensioners for trueness. I had one that was bent slightly, caused the belt to ride off center.

Haven't gutted one myself, just read of it being done. Had a few Hitachi carbs where the wires to the valve were in bad shape, right at the valve, no easy way to fix them from what I could see. I'll look around to see if there may be a good one around here.

Drain port location doesn't fit with the EA81 radiators I've been around.

Check for vacuum leaks to start with. I had the vac hose going to the canister behind the PS strut tower come off. Thinking I swapped out the hose, but not sure. Check all other hoses for cracks, splits what have you. 2nd guess would be the Anti-diesel Valve on carb. Wires for it get frayed near the valve, cause to do funky things. You can remove valve from carb and gut it, reinstall the shell. Not sure of it's condition any more, but I do have a Hitachi here off an '86 BRAT. Still have the Weber on EA82 manifold also.

You can remove the tube and plug the hole. I did so on one of mine, and also removed the tube just below the carb mount. Ran a new length of hose from top of engine to where the other hose attached.

go to subaruxt.com You can find the downloadable manual there in the tech thread. I so miss my '88 XT6. But I have most of it under my '88 GL Wagon.

13089AA010 is the Subaru part number for the reinforced O-rings. I've used that number on a few different orders, got the proper ones each time.

There is a spring on the lower part of the shifter. I've lost said spring a couple times, makes the shifter way wobbly.

Well, it seems the '82 has the later dash. But,,, I do have the earlier dash sitting on the shelving unit. Was out in the garage today, remembered this thread. Found all of the clusters I have. 2 are White ones out of the '86 BRATs I had. '82's cluster is still in the dash, it's the later style, but it is Orange. Have an Orange cluster like the earlier one in the pic, just don't know where it came from.

My '82 BRAT has the Orange cluster.

Thinking I like the look of the DS better. Maybe redo the window crank in Black though, just for that extra "pop".

Other than the hubcaps, I like it.

I'm liking this a lot. Will be looking into it myself for the '82 BRATs interior.

If you install the EA82 flywheel and clutch on to the EA81 engine and use the EA82 5-speed trans behind it, you are good to go. No issues with any of the components not matching. Use of the EA82 flywheel on the EA81 engine moves the ignition timing marks by 6*. 0* TDC on the EA81 engine will read as 6* BTDC on the EA82 flywheel. Use of the EA82 carbed intake under a Weber carb just lets the engine respond better to throttle input due to the larger opening it has over the EA81 intake. I've done a few EA81 engines with the EA82 flywheel, both manual and auto trans. Ran both a Weber and the SPFI on them. Info above is what I have found doing those swaps.