TomRhere

Wheel seals for the rear of the EA82 4WD are, National Seals numbers; Inner 224015 Outer 225005

Not my color of choice, but....

I can email you a pic of the manifold if you want. This here laptop won't do things necessary for me to post pics or links. Time for new 'puter. Email me, tomrhere at yahoo dot com, put manifold pic in subject, and I'll send you pic of where the coolant passages are in both the EA81 and EA82 manifolds.

Worn throttle shaft will do it too.

There is a small coolant port in the intake, under the carb. It's to help warm the carb faster. If you look at the intake, there is a hose on the right of the manifold, just under the front of the carb. The port is centered under the carbs front, and connects internally to the water jacket in the manifold. There's less than 3/16" of gasket between water port and intake port under the carb. Once you do change the T-stat, let the engine run to burn off the coolant still in the exhaust system. Unless,,, it still wants to get hot, then it looks like head gaskets. Depending on how much coolant is laying in the exhaust system, it may take some time to burn off.

I know that at the connector; Green and Green/White are the backup lights. Making the switch feeds power to the backup lights. Black and Black/Red? are the 4WD light. Black is ground, Black/Red? is from the ground side of the indicator light. If you ground the wire with the tracer on it, the light will lite. If you have another 2-wire connector on the trans harness, that is for the Neutral switch. Works the same as the 4WD switch. How many switches are on your trans, they changed over the years. 2, 3, 4?

Possible bad T-stat comes to mind. Engine got towards the hot side, intake gasket or carb base gasket blew. Coolant gets drawn into engine and burned. Intake pulled and gaskets replaced, gaskets looked somewhat iffy, but it's still getting to warm when running. Nothing out of over-flow tube on radiator. By the way, EA-81's didn't have a recovery bottle for over-flow. Sounds to me like bad T-stat. You will still get the steam cloud out of the exhaust after replacing a blown carb/intake/head gasket until residual coolant in the exhaust system is burned off.

Think you could do a BRAT tailgate trim piece out of 'glass ?

All 5 of the BRATs I've owned have had the "2 pane slide to center" ones. '82, '84, '85, and 2 '86's. The one TSB posted pics of might be an after market or dealer installed one.

May want to remove the control unit from the dash mainly to get a look at the back of it. Really sounds like what my Wagon was doing after I got it all back together and running. Had to play around with the buttons to get it to change modes. Found that if I left the screw out that hold it to the dash, it would work, sort of. Finally pulled it out of the dash completely, found the back of it was broke into several pieces. Swapped in the control from the parts wagon and all is good.

WOW!!! Pulled the arm right off the bushing. Remove the three bolts holding it to the swing arm. Remove the bolt holding the bushing to the mount bracket on the crossmember. See if you can find someone with a press to put the bushing back where it belongs. Weld a flat washer to the bracket where it ripped out, so there is good metal to hold the bolt. You want the washer on the outside of bracket. Reassemble everything. I would take a good look at where the crossmember bolts to the body on that side. See if anything has been shifted any. I have straightened bent "B" pillars before. It can be done, but is a lot of work to do so.

Spring end of T-stat towards engine. I put the jiggle-pin at the top. Try filling system with front of Wagon up on ramps, pointed up a hill, or similar. Get it's nose in the air.

Trailer tires are designed to hold up a determined load, AND,,,, follow the tow vehicle. They are not meant to handle the "LOADS" that "Street Tires" see. I used Street tires as a cover-all for automotive tires. If,,, you just hit light trails, Baja around the farm, don't do any freeway driving... They "may" suite the cost. Other than that. not worth the risks....... Consider if you will, house trailer/modular home tires. Lot of people buy the axles to build what ever type trailer out of, but never consider the tires that come with them. Those tires are made for a, "get it from here to there", short life. Not intended for long-term use. Then they want to complain that they got ripped on the tires because they failed in someway. TRAILER TIRES ARE NOT MEANT FOR PROLONGED USE!!!!! PERIOD!!!!!

Check all of the grounds actually. Basically nothing more than, breaking the screw/bolt holding the ground, loose,, and re-tightening it helps. Also, just un-plugging/re-plugging connectors help. Any and all you can find, just do it. It does make a difference. Found problem on all 5 BRAT's I've owned with the fuel gauge reading funky was the connections at the tanks sending unit. Major corrosion there. Have just cut out the bad, soldered the wires together on those. Your method may very.

And you can go places he can't go.

Starter contact kit; HELP Brand # 02349

I would say from your description that the vacuum canister is shot. One should have 4 - 5 assisted brake applications on a power brake system with the engine not running. Varies by make/model... But one will still have brakes after depleting the stored vacuum, it just takes a bit more leg input. Point of brake actuating rod attachment is closer to the pivot point of the pedal on power brakes than it is non power brakes. The fact that the vac canister doesn't hold vac, and that the engine wants to stall if brakes are applied at idle, surely points to bad canister.

Not going to say it's impossible, but I will say it's highly improbable that you installed the clutch disc backwards. Just can't see the raised center portion of the clutch disc fitting the flywheel recess enough to allow one to get the pressure plates bolts started with out some serious arguing going on.

@wagonist Now that you mentioned it, I recall an issue from years back of new clutch kit installed, wouldn't release. Car in question belonged to a customer, he supplied all parts needed. I had the flywheel machined. Many attempts at getting it to work, even pulled flywheel back off and had it checked by the shop that did it. Gave up and bought another clutch kit, installed it, and no issues. Something wasn't right with the 1st kit. Customer was able to get that money back. So all was Happy.

Welcome! Nice Wagon... If you've been driving vehicles with a hydraulic clutch, the cable clutch will feel stiffer. At least it does to me.

Only thing I can add would be bad pilot bearing. But it would really have to be buggered to stall the engine with what you just tried.

White=Battery feed Black=Ignition Blue=Accessory Black/White= Starter

Finally had time to do a bit of wrenching. Got her up in the air and pulled the wheels off. Front rotors and pads are still in good shape. rear rotors are done for.... Pads are still good however. Chirp is from high spots on the rotors, highly evident just looking at them. Get a bit of rub rotating them by hand. Rotated the tires around. Did a check on most everything else I could think of to do. And yeah, dealing with the Mi. S.O.S. is getting to be a pain, even though they say the have improved how things are done there.

I would be interested in one for the '82.

Been driving it for the last 2 weeks. Seems to be "Happy" being back on the road. I know I'm "Happy" to be driving it again.. Got a few things to check on this weekend. Got a chirp coming from the PS rear brake. Fairly sure the pads are still good, but have new here if needed. On hard right turns, I hear a rub coming from the DS front, like tire is hitting fender or the like. No way tire hits fender, it's not even close. Rub sound is real short in duration. We shall see. No more signs of the afore mentioned coolant leak, been keeping an eye on it. Got a rattle coming from the back, sounds like it's inside and trim related, so I'll be looking around for that.