Sasse

Depending on how old your bulbs are, it may be enough to just replace the bulbs. You didn’t tell us what your budget is, or what year Brat you have so offering part numbers is tough. try rock auto, they have a few options.

Stock, new and perfect the rig on had hp in the 80’s. That’s maybe as much as 1/3 the WRX hp. it is slow - someone described it once more lime driving a tractor than a car. Embrace it.

If I read your missive correctly: Overheating is likely either: bad head gasket (or worse a bad head) or something wrong with cooling system. Water pump, radiator, collapsed hose, etc, but, oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil points to a head gasket or head issue. my $0.02

CV joints in the front busted?

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ fsm has some diagrams I think.

Glad you got it figured out.

Get the electrical issue that causes all the dash lights to stay on figured out. My bet is that will solve your fuel problem. Good luck.

I’d follow-up on the power to the fuel pump. The fuel pump un my 82 Brat is always on. I am pretty sure it should always gave power when the engine is running…. my $0.02 good luck

If memory serves, the one on the top of the filter is the return …. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.

Consider rebuilding yours. The process is not too complex.

Thanks

Why is the insurance company “taking” the car? They don’t have to take it to do an estimate. Sounds SUPER shady to me….

Hi all, been slowly making progress w/ my Brat. It is now safe and roadworthy. My newest issue is the transmission is leaking badly at the shifter shaft seal. my questions are; can it be replaced without removing the transmission? and any words of wisdom or advice before I dig in? So far I have: replaced a head due to a previously botched helicoil for a sparkplug. Replace h2o pump, hoses, radiator. Installed new 32/36 (it runs, but not quite right, but that is a later project). Redid all brakes that need immediate attention. Fixed the leaking t-top. Replaced a bunch if wheel studs. Entirely replaced exhaust. And, additional sundry repairs and maint. thanks in advance.

I am pretty sure the methods of testing hp in the US vs Europe were different then. It isn’t always an apples to apples comparison. That said, I have no idea if there was any difference in the vehicles.

What are you running for T-stat temps? Doesn’t make sense to me to look at one w/out the other....

Leave it, cap it, remove and recycle/dispose of it. Doesn’t make much difference. It isn’t really needed anymore. My $0.02

Possible a tire is bad. Tread separation or defect.

Installed. All went pretty easy. The cat-back muffler/pipe will be installed next week.

Thanks all. I went with a Magnaflow. The mounting point on the tail end of the unit matches stock better (to my eye). Now welding, or mods needed. So far, so good.

Yes. It is a filter and vapor control and should be replaced periodically. I am guessing you still have the original carburetor. The vapor line is often capped/removed if an after market carb is installed.

Is there anything other than a failure of the wiper motor that will cause them not to park? they just stop when I turn off the switch. Thanks in advance for help/ideas!

Nice. Sounds like you have winter projects. Spauldings might have some parts. I am working on a Brat - if you are interested in selling a set of seats let me know. I am in Billings, but get to GEG every few months. Have fun!

Thanks. Sounds easier and better.

Hi all, putting a weber in my winter project Brat. It’s an 82. Will the aluminum from an old license plate be stout enough to fabricate an EGR delete cover plate? It’s all I have around the garage. Hoping not to have to go out just for a small chunk of aluminum or steel. Thanks in advance.