Petersubaru

can anyone explain to me how to set the idle speed on '86 GL /Turbo/2 wheel Dr./automatic

does anyone have any advice from where to purchase a carb rebuild kit for the EA82 motor/1986

could somebody please tell me if my heads are turbo or non-turbo...both have dual ports...one of the heads have a tube going into the oil return section of the head and also visually, the exhaust valves seems to be of a thicker material (the part that sits on the valve seat)

thepartsbin.com sell original subaru clutch parts etc.

most street carbs have vaccum secondarys like the subaru does which adds to smoother driving....but the weber does not

John..I am back at the library again..I need to correct what I said earlier....they have 2 intake ports each and I automaticly Assumed they were for a turbo...is there any difference between a Turbo and MPFI...I know that the carb and spfi are the same....anyway the heads are in excellent condition,slight surface oxidition on a couple of springs since they have been sitting around for over 10 years, valves cleaned etc. and resurfaced with no cracks between the valves...I bought them early this morning in Florida and I need to figure out a price for the heads....(any ideas)...if we agree to a price, and instead of sending them to you....maybe we can meet on my way back up to Port Huron Mich. if where you live is not to far of the I/75... Peter....email me .....PCOTUL@hotmail.com

I have turbo heads with NO cracks between the valves...on speculation I bought these heads from a machine shop that is closing its doors...the shop owner said the heads have been sitting there for 10-12 years since the car owner didn't want to pay the price for the cleaning and resurfacing of the heads..they look A1 and I would keep them for myself but I don't have a turbo....If you should write back ...be patient for a reponse since I don't have a computer

no re- torqueing neccessary with the new fel-pro gaskets,,,make sure every thing is clean and the torque wrench is accurate...3 0r 4 lbs.of extra torque wouldn't hurt either

I had the same problem driving up to Alaska from Detroit..changed the thermostate 3 times .....then drove the car without the thermostate with no over heating...once I installed the correct thermo with the jiggler..no more problems.... the air lock in the cooling system can be next to impossible to remove without the correct thermo.

I don't know what you mean by sealing up the motor...but if you mean to be putting the two block halves together....RTV is not recommended...it does not mix with oil,...is dangerous if a small piece gets into the bearing etc....I know in my gasket kits that the black RTV is always supplied, but I never use it...call up the Permatix people and have them recommend something other and better for your application

I have used Por15 for the last 12 years plus 3 other companies in various situations and for experimental reasons...but no One rust fighter fits all applications....Por15 is excellent if proper prep work is done...but if the metal Flexes like a fender or the frame of a car, rust starts to develope under the coating(s) and you won't even see it...for restoration cars that never drive much,it's great, but most appl. call for the coating to be able to move...what you really need to be concerned with, is the ability of the rust fighter to prevent any air/moisture from getting to the rusted area and to have the ability to stay there

Mitch..would appreciate if you could also tell us the brand name and from where you had purchased the fan...Thanks

does any one know where to buy the exact fitting little air filters which fit on the valve covers of my EA82 motor..Thanks

for what it is worth, my subaru made enough lifter noise to stop traffic (no kidding) and my mechanic of 35 years said that the main bearings where gone...thats why all the lifters made noise at all times and the weaker ones made more noise....after replacing the "O" rings on the cam carrier and replacing the seal on the front of the oil pump, the one behind the timing belt pulley....it now runs quiet even after driving 25000 mi. with it....I told my mechanic about the repair info given to me thru this site...he was amazzed that such a simple cure actually took care of the problem

don't buy Federal Mogul crank bearings..there standard size involves turning the crank to get the proper end play....in other words ,the centre thrust bearing will not fit using the standard size unless you first turn the crank to accommodate the wider bearing....ACL bearings form Australia are exact in every way and come in different sizes....both federal and hastings rings were .004 over the max.allowed for the end gap..needless to say, I returned them also....I am using Nippon Piston rings standard size....the end gap is within the specs subaru calls....you can live with a larger gap...but if you're going this far, might as well do it right......I don't live in the States, so as to get the parts I do not know....the proper parts listed above can be purchased in the States

I forgot to add..after dealing and repairing the carbs check the distr. with a "back to zero" timing light at around 3000 RPM's to see if the mark stays steady

4th. carb being bad.???...maybe all the carbs are poor to start with....generally speaking;.. back firing thru the carb is an indication of wrong timing (to retarded) or the air/fuel mixture is running to lean, or a combination of both....I tend to like staying with original carbs (rebuilt if neccessary) with org. jetting and timing to match your motor....your distributor can cause back-firing and sputtering if its got to much play in the vertical and horizontal axsis of the shaft

if you can afford the synthetic oil..go for it..it really depends if your driving is in the extreme ranges of very cold or very hot weather...remember, oil still gets dirty, so the filter interval change must remain the same....mobil oil did the million mile challenge with regular dino on a contast driving machine with very little wear on the rings etc....my own experience with highway driving on my 86 has 250,000mi./compression 165lb/cyl...oil/ filter changed every 3000 mi. with 10/30 castrol all year long....the heads have recently been rebuilt ..take care

thanks guys for the gold mine of info..up in northern Mich.information can get a little tight

subarus use a chrome top piston ring...never , never use a synthetic oil for the brake-in (however long that may be)??

the distributor is off a 86/GL/1.8/carb/with the ignitor/..does any body know if the distributor will it work if the Rotation is changed...I would like to put this (minus the drive gear ) into another make of car

Could some tell me the difference if any, between a starter for an automatic vs manual...in front of me I have the starter for the automatic, but I am unable to get a good close look at the starter in my 86 loyale that fits on to a manual transmission to make any real comparison

Thanks for answering back with tour experience....with new heads,wires, plugs,etc., the motor at various times during idle has definite miss and again at the 5000rpm range it misses every once in a while, and in between that range nothing...when useing the "back to zero" timing light at the 3000rpm range, the timing mark stays rock steady...so at least I know that the distributor has no slop...it would be nice to handle this problem in a more professional way then just having to resort to the old saying.. "change it and see if it works"

does anyone know how to test the module inside of a hitachi dist...I have not been able to find any information on this item in any of the manuals