Legacy777

The low pressure valve should be on the ac line coming around the back of the firewall. You should be able to buy one of those recharge cans and check the pressure the system is making, and add anything if needed.

That guy doesn't know what he's talking about. Basically, all they would need to do is cut the bolts off with a torch or grinder. If they can't get enough room to replace the doughnut gasket, they can remove the bolts that hold the mid pipe to the muffler section, or cut them off. They can then remove the mid pipe to get enough room to put the gaskets in. All you would need new is the bolts that they cut off.

Hey Dan, It's very possible the speed sensor could have caused the duty c solenoid code. What symptoms/problems are you getting? Or just that those codes are displayed? If you're not having any problems, I'd just clear the codes, pull the egi/tcu fuse, and just keep an eye on things.

Not sure if the test connecters being connected would cause your problems, but it's possible about the alarm wiring being ripped out poorly might be causing your problems.

Yeah, I'd lean towards the MAF sensor. I had very similar issues. Turned out to be the MAF.

Yeah, sounds like you don't have a tstat or you have an aftermarket one that causes hell with things. Replace it with an OEM one and you should be good to go.

Unfortunately, diagnosing something like this is rather difficult. I'm not sure where I'd start with things. Have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like? It sounds electrical. What about coil pack or the ignitor....or possibly even the ECU.

Next time you're feeling the surge, pop the shift lever into neutral and see if it goes away. If it does, it could be transmission related. If it doesn't go away, then I'm not sure what it is....might just be not as good brakes.

In whatever injector you use or size, you should really not exceed 80% duty cylce.

Does the SVX have a variable voltage pump? I know the legacies of that era just have a single voltage pump, and only have a fuel pump relay. If your setup was the same the legacy, I'd look at the ECU or possible the ignition switch being the culprit. Here's the wiring diagram for engine electrical, and you can see the fuel pump there http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical1.jpg The factory manuals should have all the info you need. Not sure if you have them electronically or not. If so, I don't mind taking a look at things to help in troubleshooting.

Jason Grahn over on www.bbs.legacycentral.com did it. Do a search over on the bbs, and you should be able to find info on it.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Legacyradiodiag.jpg

You could have a poor running pump, or the pump sock could be plugged. You can get at the pump via an access panel in the trunk I've heard good things about smart service

Excuse me? I said nothing about my car in this thread, and I don't recall bragging about my car in general. Regardless, you will treat ALL members with respect, which includes moderators and administrators. If you can not or refuse to do this, you will be removed!

This is the full subaru part # 22611AD57A You should be able to give that number to the dealer or Jamie, and they'll be able to tell you where it came from.

let us know what you find out. I want a plasma cutter

Are you talking about the blower fan for the ventilation system or the radiator fan? And can you be more specific on how it's not working.....

You would need to pull the switch out, and replace the bulb inside. You can buy bulbs that fit at radio shack. I don't recall the part # off the top of my head though.

Please only post in the appropriate forum.

I believe the newer RS's might have had VLSD's in the rear and 4.111 final drive ratio.....but none of the older legacies did.

You don't need to run any additive in the fluid, in fact, running an additive will do absolutely nothing because the Limited slip portion uses a sealed viscous coupling, just like the center diff.

www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

If the engine seized due to overheating....I wouldn't even bother with it. It's possible just replacing a head gasket would fix things, but there's no telling what other stuff got warped. At the worst, you'd need a new engine. If you don't mind that option, and price is right, go for it.

It'll look like this http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyswapparts/DCP_3009.JPG

I'd say contacts too....except for the fact he said it grinds......