Legacy777

So you adjusted this screw? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tb/DCP_1512.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tb/DCP_1511.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tb/DCP_1513.JPG Not the stop screws.... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tb/DCP_1510.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tb/DCP_1508.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tb/DCP_1505.JPG If you're ok with wiring, you can get a generic one from oxygensensors.com and wire it up. The 89 dollar one would probably work just fine. Yes the O2 sensor can be worn out and still not throw a code.

As it's already been stated.....go get a subaru OEM t-stat. I had weird overheating/engine temp issues with an aftermarket t-stat. There are some threads out there with more info. Just search.

Just post a new thread over there linking to this one. Tell them to try and keep all the technical replies/discussion in this thread so it's easier to follow. I'd also recommend waiting on getting the tranny fixed so you're not trying to hunt down two problems at once.

It might be the O2 sensor. You could try getting a new one. Especially if it's never been replaced and it has that kind of mileage on it. You really can't test the O2 sensors too well. The voltage on them at idle will go up and down between 0v and 1v. If it doesn't oscilate then there's obviously a problem. Some multi-meters however don't have a fast enough sample rate to see the oscilation, which is why I'd say just replace it if you have more then 100k miles on the sensor. The throttle bodies are the same, with the exception that some of the 90-91's had a little idle adjustment/bypass screw on the top of the TB. I found this out the hard way when chasing a high idle problem. However they are fully swappable. camshaft & crankshaft sensors should be the same. Intake manifold should be the same or similar enough not to cause an issue. There's three lines coming from the fuel area. One is obviously a fuel supply, ones a return, and one's from the fuel separator vent system in the tank. The supply line should go to the bank of fuel injectors on driver's side. The return should come from the line on the pass side of the engine. Technically I guess you could swap them....

Was this a subaru dealer? Or just some mechanic? It doesn't sound like the mechanic knows what's going on. You can take your car to autozone and have them read the codes in the engine. See what codes are in there, and if they are related to the work the mechanic did, or something completely different.

have you jacked up the car and rotated the wheels by hand to see if they roll smoothly?

I guess let's start with what a booster does, provide brake assist via engine vacuum and a diaphragm. The larger the diaphragm, the more brake assist you will get. What the tandem booster does is provide double the amount of brake assist in a much smaller package (diameter). I believe the issue most people have with the tandem booster and the "dead" area is with how it works, and let's vacuum into both chambers. I don't think it does this evenly, or there is some slack or something in how it works that gives you that blah feeling. I got a spare tandem booster, and plan on cutting it open to see exactly how it works, and if the system is truly a tandem only system, or if it's more like a 1st and 2nd stage/level of brake assist.

yeah I bought it in the states. I don't remember what exactly the cost is. It wasn't too much.

Hmm....I know the US spec BC's got the tandem booster. Here's pics of the single diaphragm booster I swapped in mine. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/10/DCP_3250.JPG there's a few more on this page http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/10/default.htm forgot I have pics of the tandem booster too http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/10/DCP_3272.JPG

MRT makes a similar bracket. While it does help, it doesn't solve the problem. Almost all brake boosters today are tandem boosters. (not dual-staged) Due to how they're setup they produce that (dead pedal) feel at the very beginning of the stroke. I recently swapped to the single diaphragm booster and will say that it made a world of difference in the brake pedal feel.

If you can swap the motor yourself, why can't you do the headgasket? You can d/l factory manuals from http://techinfo.subaru.com that should give you all the info you need. It's possible more stuff might go wrong, but every car is different, and depends on how it was cared for before.

The Mi was a special package in 94. You can read more info here http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive.html#1994%20Legacy As for the heater core. That sounds a little high, but to get at the heater core, they pretty much have to tear the entire dash apart to replace it...which is A LOT of labor.

I'd probably just replace the headgasket. Far easier IMO then doing the motor swap and trying to deal with the issues that could arise. If the motors were both new gen motors doing the motor swap might be easier....

No you don't need to swap the hard fuel lines that hook up to the rails.

have you tried swapping the injector connectors to double check? Other thing you can do is pull one connector off while the engine is running. It will leave a code in the ECU. Check the code, and it will specify which injector it came from. If it doesn't correspond to cylinder # you pulled off, you know you got the wrong ones on.

This issue is a little more complicated regarding the OBD. OBD2 was implemented to standardized everything. Emission places now just plug into the computer, so the car needs to stay OBD2. I know for a fact the idle air control valve has changed over the years, there may be a few other issues with wiring and such. Are they show-stopper issues. I don't really know. If you got the time to try it, go for it. Yeah the tranny will work fine with the 2.2

I'm not quite sure borla goes around the front of the engine. Maybe to tune exhaust pulses. The borla 2.5 header will bolt up, however you will need a different piping from the header back, since on the first gen legacies the first cat was in the header, and on the newer models, there's a separate pipe for both cats.

Is it a 97 gt, or 94 gt? I'm assuming 97. The engine will physically bolt in, however some of the sensors and such have changed, so that may cause some issues. Also, the 93 engine setup is OBD1, and the 97 is OBD2.

Does the IAC valve look like this? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG If it's exactly like that, the engine you got was from an automatic. If the engine seems to be running good, I'm sort of at a lost as to your mileage. Reset the ECU and report back. Who rebuilt the tranny? Does it have any kind of warranty?

enough

Was the engine out of a MT or AT car? On the 90-91's, if it was an MT car, some of the sensors on it are different. IAC valve, injectors, and MAFHave you reset your ECU?

Have you checked/changed the tranny fluid recently?

Yeah the MAF sensor is right after the air box, that is what I'm talking about. What silver thing are you talking about? The throttle body? Sorry to hear about all the headaches. I'm sort of at a loss to what the issue is, whether it's a tranny issue or engine issue. I know before I swapped trannies, I was getting horrible mileage with my auto. How many miles are on the tranny?

Ok, So you have a 1993 Legacy automatic with a silver MAF? You've got the incorrect MAF sensor. All the automatic's had the black MAF sensor. Did it always have the silver MAF? The idle thing.....you shouldn't have turned the screw. By doing that, you're fixing a symptom, not the problem. the MAF sensor thing may be the cause of the idle.

I hate to keep harping on this, but it is NOT a 90-92. The change occured between the 91 & 92 model years. So it would be a 90-91. What color MAF do you have? Black or silver? I was unaware of any screws that could (should) be tweaked on the MAF.