Legacy777

If you hear it only under light braking, or no braking, then it's probably just the pad making noise due to it not fitting perfectly in the caliper bracket. You could try some CRC disc brake quieter. It's a redish-orange goo.

It sounds like it's the resistor pack. It's located in the evaporator box, which is behind the glove box.

You'll have a little more electrical stuff to deal with then me, but here's my write-up on my swap www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

MAF sensors have a specific transfer function associated with their response to airflow. So if you wanted to swap MAF sensors, you'd want to use a MAF sensor with the same transfer function as the one you're replacing it with.....or match whatever the ECU is meant for However, if you are using different engine management...stand alone, or piggy back that controls fueling, you should be able to use any standard MAF sensor.....it'll just require tuning to get things right.

Turbo...turbo....turbo. The engine itself really doesn't need to be fooled with. A bigger turbo, and the supporting systems to handle that larger turbo will yield very nice results. There's guys on the legacy central BBS around 200, and more. The biggest limiting factor with these cars is the electronics, specifically the MAF sensor. It maxes out around an airflow of 200 gm/sec....which equates to about 200 hp. So to "properly" measure airflow you need a larger sensor, but then you need to have the computer to utilize it.....and as you can see, it snowballs from there. That's pretty much where I'm at. I've got a brand new TD05 from deadbolt sitting in my living room, and STi injectors waiting to go in.....but without a decent engine management solution..... When I'm done, I would like to be around at least 250 chp, if not more....and I think that is a very doable setup with what I'm planning to run.

If it's a factory item, you may want to ask on www.legacygt.com/forums and see if anyone has any experience with it.

How is the wiring tapped into the car's wiring? Is there a plug & play harness type of thing? Or were wires cut and tapped into? It almost sounds like something is not wired properly.

moving to retrofitting forum.

It'll probably work, you may need to swap out the PS pump bracket that bolts to the engine, but I don't see why you couldn't do that.

The duty b is on the valve body, and the duty c is in the tail housing of the trans. Both require removaly of components from the transmission.

Is the rust under where the windshield seals, or above it? You could probably remove the windshield, clean the rust and put in a new windshield.

bump

How does the car run? Is there anything that seems out of the ordinary?

Grew up in the Seattle area & went to school in PA, so I might have been around a few hills Either way....the subject has been brought up on NASIOC. If you truly want a manual rack, find out what, if any is available for the impreza and use it on the SVX.

Does the light come on when you depress the manual button on the shifter lever?

You may want to search www.bbs.legacycentral.org

You should roll the engine over by hand when you have the timing belt & tensioner put back on. That will help take up slack in the timing belt and help prevent the t-belt from skipping a tooth at startup.

Does the CEL stay on all the time, or did it just come on, and go out?

Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org JasonGrahn did this swap on his first gen legacy. Do a search by his name, and you should find his post.

This question has been asked a tons on nasioc. I don't know the outcome or anyone has found one, but I'd suggest searching, and see what you come up with http://forums.nasioc.com/forums Personally, I'd want some form of power steering...but that's me.

If you don't get any takers here, you may want to also post in the meet & greet forum.

Can you please try and describe the sound a little more?

Going to move this to the old gen forum.

You may want to try posting on nasioc. Someone may have something http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

The way it sounds, and the fact it comes and goes would rule out exhaust leak IMO. It does almost sound like piston slap.