heartless

ok, enough "guess-timating" this is directly from my 1990 Legacy Owners Manual (2.2 N/A) OIL Capacity = 4.8 US Quarts (4.5 Liters, 4.0 Imp qt) So there ya go.

Not necessarily... wonders why everyone is so quick to jump on the HG bandwagon lately???? sheesh... if the spray is coming from the radiator itself, it can very well be a small hole in the radiator. We are talking about a 20 yr old car here that probably has the original radiator in it.... running the car creates heat in the system heat = expansion expansion in a properly pressurized system can and does cause "spraying" of coolant if there is a small hole. From what I am reading, it sounds more like to me that the problem is a hole in the radiator near the left corner. If it were pushing the coolant back thru the overflow bottle, then yeah, I would agree with you, but it doesnt sound to me like that is the issue here. OP - with the car running and at operating temp, get down to where you can see up underneath (please protect your eyes from dripping/spraying coolant! we dont need anyone getting hurt!) have a rag or two handy and try to determine where the coolant is coming from. Use the rags to wipe off any drips/runs to try to trace back where they come from. if it comes from the front/lower rad support, your radiator needs to be replaced (this is what I am expecting to hear reported back). if it comes from the lower hose connection at the radiator it could be a loose clamp, a bad hose, or corrosion on the hose nipple and bears further investigation. if it comes from the other end of that lower hose, again, could be loose clamp, could be bad hose, corrosion on the hose nipple, etc... IF the coolant is coming back thru the overflow bottle, THEN you have a much more serious problem as noted by others. Please let us know what you find.

TOD is usually a pretty benign condition - noisy - yes, annoying - yes, but the death of the engine? NO!! the hydraulic lash adjusters have simply lost pressure due to a lack of oil. if filling the oil to the proper level (and keeping it there) and running the engine for a while does not correct the problem, then they can often be pulled out, cleaned and pumped up manually. a search here will turn up TONS of info on this "problem"... my old 89 GL would develop the TOD if i forgot to check the oil often enough. top it off and keep driving and it would correct itself in 15-20 miles of driving.

^ what he said - being an interference engine, do you really want to risk major internal damage if that belt does let go?

to each thier own, but i have never pulled the radiator to do timing on any Subaru. Sure, it will give you a small bit of extra room, but is it really worth the hassle of draining, refilling and burping??? I guess if you have large hands and need that extra space it might make sense, but for me...nah, dont need it & less work to leave the rad in. to the original poster - if you just want to verify that it will indeed start/run you can reuse the old belt, reset timing & try starting it - if it does start & run, then go get a good timing kit (pulleys, etc), new belt, water pump & the seals, do the job right, button it up and have fun driving your cheap Subaru for many miles!

may, or may not be oil - it seems the resevoirs, as a general rule, never get cleaned regularly, so 20 years of dust & dirt and very old coolant can make it look like it has oil in it. the tank on my car was so dirty you couldnt see the level without popping the cap! 1st off, clean out the tank thoroughly. next - get that tap water OUT of your Subaru! You should never use regular tap water in ANY vehicle to be honest. reflill the system properly and try to verify EXACTLY where the "leak" is. left corner could be resevoir, could be lower radiator hose, could be radiator itself, could even be water pump... i second replacing the radiator if that is the problem - adding things like stop leak can cause serious issues with these motors and is generally not recommended. good luck

LOL - I am old & poor! and with everything else that is going on around here lately - mom's stroke, me having a bout with kidney stones, and now it seems I am getting a headcold & feel like crap - i just dont seem to have the energy to do much of anything right now - oh, and we are also trying to get our house sided - ourselves! (cant afford to hire someone to do that) Normally, i would be all about taking care of this myself, and we are always looking for excuses to buy new tools! but, these days, i am just flat worn out...there isnt enough of me left to go around!

you have been pm'ed

here's hoping it stays fixed for ya this time and you have many trouble free miles out of the car! I am about 2 hours west of you, give or take, just a little west of Wausau. we have a few that are down Milwaukee way.

short answer - no the Legacy is a very different car from your DL and the glass will not fit.

hohieu - thanks, that link worked. Twitch - that is the one thing that has been consistant in all posts about these rear bearings - the lateral link bolt is a buggar! and living in salt country....well.... just for grins I stopped off at the local shop i like to get an estimate on having the work done. Was actually pleasantly surprised (compared to some prices I have seen quoted here) Estimate is just over $250 which includes a premium bearing assy. w/3 yr warranty... the warranty alone almost has me convinced.... by the time i buy the bearing - $80 (and only 1 yr), and buy the HF bearing adapter kit - another $80 - thats $160 right there - then the time, agrivation and skinned knuckles... I must be getting lazy in my old age to actually be considering taking my car to someone else!

welcome aboard! where in WI are you?? sorry to hear of all the HG issues - maybe consider loosing the 2.5 and go with a 2.2! would solve the hg problem!

thanks for the additional info guys - will look into a loaner tool kit @ my local Advance store...dont have an autozone near us. hohieu - that link gave me a "403 - forbidden" error - any chance to find it anywhere else?

sounds like classic "pinging" to me - what grade of gas are you using? might try a higher grade and see if it goes away... hopefully someone else with more experience will chime in...

Re: CB radios - the radio and the antenna are only a part of the equation here - granted, the bigger part....BUT quality coax is important too. you can take the greatest CB on the market, hook it to some crappy coax and an unmatched antenna and it wont work worth a darn - flip side - take a crappy radio, hook it to quality coax and get the antenna tuned, it will probably outperform the previous scenario... my point being that when you get your radio, get your antenna and get your coax (most magnet mounts have the coax built in - not the best quality, but it will work ok for a time) go find yourself a decent "CB shop" and get the antenna "matched" for peak performance - cost is usually around $20-30 to have it set up right. (BTW pretty much any trucker can tell you were to find a decent shop in your area) I personally am not a huge fan of the fiberglass antennas, but many others do like them - all personal preference really. as far as radios go - if you want cheap and easy to operate - the Cobra 19 is decent - very compact size, fits just about anywhere, can be had brand new for under $50 - the more complex they are, the more expensive they get - some Galaxy radios can be several hundred $$...

All things being equal - it looks pretty good Definitely needs that lift & bigger tires tho! the color scheme isnt exactly my cup of tea (sorry Miles), but if it works for you, so be it. I'm more with Ben on that one - incognito works for me just fine - and in this neck of the woods - not too many red Legacy's, or OB's, of any vintage - most are white or green, a few silver ones here & there, but red? nope. in a small way, my red 1st gen Lego does stand out... So, now that its all done and ready to roll - time for a road trip, isnt it?? could really use some help up here!!

thanks GD - things to think about... have done the older style bearings on the EA82 cars a few times - both fronts and rears - no big deal there, but this one is a beast of another color from looking at it... cost wise - eh, 6 to one, half a dozen to the other - can get the bearing for just under $60, but the cost of the kit...that is a little harder to justify. We do have a couple of parts cars - only one is the AWD tho (i think) and mileage wise it's pretty close to what mine is at, and older Lego's just are not that plentiful around here AND no "you pull it" yards, sooo.... I guess i need to weigh the cost of the kit (and having it available if I ever need to do this again) versus taking the knuckle off and taking it in somewhere...

actually pulling the motor isnt my worry so much as keeping the torque converter in the proper position during the pull! I did find a pretty decent writeup about it, but of course, i am still kind of nervous about the whole thing... a quick Q - is the separator plate on the '90 EJ22 metal or plastic?? am fairly sure i have a pretty serious leak there judging by the oily residue on the outside of trans/engine mating surfaces in that general area...

We actually own and use this impact gun and it works VERY well - just remember to oil it once in a while! (gary ) we usually put a 3-6 drops in every other use and it is holding up very well after 5-6 years of fairly regular use - for the price - hard to beat...until you can afford to purchase a "better" one the other half's boss bought one of these as well for use on thier heavy trucks - his did die after about a year & a half - BUT - he never oiled it!!

ok, i did do a search but didnt come up with a lot of 'relevant' info... the car - 1990 Legacy LS wagon, AWD, Auto the problem - left rear wheel bearing has made noise since I got the car just over two years ago - not sloppy at all, yet - recently making more noise going around curves (when the weight shifts to that side). time to get it taken care of... The few posts I did find referred more to later models - 96+ - so i have to wonder how relevant the info is to my car... Is this something I can do myself or would I be better off taking it in to a shop? I am quite 'mechanically inclined' as many of you already know - and i have the time available...just wondering about the difficulty factor and the need of "special tools" like the FWD Bearing Adapter Set Will that set work for the rear wheel bearings? and - do i need to get a bearing seperator kit like this one or can i use a basic multi jaw puller?

we dont have that particular piece, but we do own a LOT of harbor freight stuff here - for the DIY-er on a tight budget they definitely work for the occasional use/need. We have everything from nail guns to wrenches to the countertop sized sandblasting cabinet - some things are better than others, but most will do the job required of them. kind of looking at the FWD bearing adapter set right now as I am gonna need to change out a wheel bearing soon... But like rooster said - for the mechanic working in a 'for profit' garage - eh, probably not the best idea... ^ that statement is hilarious - but very true!

he did replace radiator cap, Gary.... just pointing it out.

wish i had tried unplugging when the O2 went bad on my 90 lego - never occured to me to do/try that. But yeah, i had major driveability issues when mine went south - miss, cough, no power - just ran like crap in general. New O2 and she runs like a dream - even increased my fuel mileage from an average of 27.5 to more like 30mpg! and this is an AWD 4EAT car! last fillup i checked i even broke 31 mpg!

yup, gonna be my first time pulling a Suby engine (pulled a 460 out of an old Lincoln once - did NOT reinstall however) so it is gonna be a definite learning experience!

I know costs will vary by location, sometimes a great deal... that said, we put up a 3 car, 30' x 36' garage about 6 years ago - we had the grading & concrete work done by the pros with full 1/2" rebar thruout - none of the wire mesh that so many use - as we have a very high clay content so lots of "movement" of the ground between summer & winter - so far no cracks. Concrete costs (in rural WI) came in just under $3000. The truck was pretty cool - the materials were mixed right on site as it was needed - NO waste! the rest of the structure we did ourselves (myself & the other half) we did get a few friends to help put up the trusses, but otherwise it was just us. the whole thing was up and enclosed in about 3 weeks working evenings and weekends - materials cost us around another $3000 +/- (it was 6 yrs ago after all) Getting all the siding up was a little longer, but again, we did it ourselves on weekends and such Tools to make the job easier - maybe another $3-400. we are talking about air powered framing nailer and roofing nailer, battery powered drill/driver and a few other odds & ends. Still need to finish the electrical work (have to hire an electrician for some of that by law) but it isnt that far away from being done - if only we had the money for that electrician! total costs for the whole project to date - about $6500. having 1080sq ft of space for cars, bikes, tools and whatever else - priceless!