heartless

lift the wiper arm up and look at the underside of the attachment part - there may be a small tab underneath that you will need to pull outward to release the wiper assembly. it may take a little bit of wiggling the assembly to get it loose. When I replaced mine recently, I had to pull the whole assembly upwards to get the tab to release, then I could push down to get it off the arm...

even tho the Loyale is a year newer, you would be going backwards tech wise - the Loyale is "old tech" while the Legacy is "new tech" (for the era) They are very different cars, so pretty much nothing will swap between the two.

another FSM resource... http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Try living in northern Wisconsin - minus zero temps are the norm for weeks at a time - maybe not -25 to -30 on a regualr basis, but minus single digits & teens are commonplace from around Christmas to sometime in February. Usually have about a week, maybe two of consistant -15 to -20 temps in January I dont use the oil pan heater on a regular basis - but when temps are going to be minus 20s or lower - yeah, not a bad idea. during the recent "Polar Vortex" cold snap, we saw actual temperatures around -30 to -35... wind chills in the -50 range. Lots of folks had cars that wouldnt start for a couple of days...

my personal opinion - far too many people are far to reliant on the dash lights - they are called "idiot lights" for good reason - usually by the time the light comes on it is far too late to do any good. I have owned many cars over the years - Fords, Chevys, a Geo, a couple of Chrysler products, and 3 Subarus - and drove semi truck for 18 years (drove Peterbuilt, Kenworth, Freightliner, Sterling, International, Mack, etc, etc, with Catepillar, Cummins, Detroit and Mack engines), and to my knowledge they ALL had oil pressure switches. If you keep a regular check on your car's fluid levels, you shouldn't need to rely on any light. Thinking the car isnt reliable because the light didnt come on with the oil a 1/2 quart low is just silly.

The cold snap wont be lasting much longer - get a magnetic oil pan heater - they work great in situations like this.

sounds like you have air in the system still.

I always have spare keys made when getting a new to me car. they break, they get lost, always good to have a back-up or 3

Sorry efseiler, but tire studs are not allowed in many states - Wisconsin included & we have some nasty winter weather - so they are not an option for a lot of folks...

OBDII ...look on left side of lower dash - there should be a small door looking thing - the connector for the code reader will be in there. you should be able to get codes read at any major chain parts store - Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc

if you have a CEL you need to get the code - that will more than likely tell you what the problem is. hard starting in cold makes me think coolant temp sensor.

you may find wiring diagrams in here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ that is about all the help I can be.

good to hear you have it resolved! thanks for updating your post, too.

I have had that pipe off - was not the easiest thing to do - mine was kind of crudded up, and there is an o-ring in there - was a bit of a bear to get back in place too... if it isnt leaking, leave it be. looks nice - powder coat?

unless you drive on a lot of heavily snow covered roads - like this... the timing cover is not a huge deal. if you are worried about pieces breaking off, leave it off - it wont hurt a thing. timing covers or no timing covers is more of a personal thing I think, have done it both ways with no major differences - aside from the above conditions causing the timing to jump with no covers on...but mine is a non-interference so no big deal...

under what conditions is it stalling? while driving down the road? slowing to a stop? sitting at a stop sign/light? in gear? parked? more info please.

pull the two outer end covers off - should be able to do that without removing anything else. 22mm socket on the crank bolt, turn engine by hand and line up one or the other cam sprocket - hash mark straight up - check and see where the hash mark on the other cam sprocket sits - if it is anything other than straight up, timing has definitely jumped. I suppose it might be possible to have both cams line up right but still have the main crank out of time, but not very likely... if timing has jumped, would highly recommend a new tensioner.

i was gonna stay out of this thread, but seriously - the OP came in here specifically to rant, made his/her post and will likely never be seen again - why are "we" still posting in this?????? time to let it go, folks... not everyone is going to agree on any one vehicle - part of life.

eh - it happens. I agree - check for power at the pump, that will point in which direction to go - good power will likely mean bad pump - no power will mean a bit more digging...

all radiator hoses as well - including the little hose off the water pump and associated clamps as needed.

coolant behind the timing cover on the passenger side? My vote goes to a leaky upper radiator hose dripping down behind there. just did a timing job on my new to me 95 Legacy w/EJ22 - the radiator hoses didnt "look" bad visually, but the upper hose was about to blow out - could see daylight thru one area after pulling it off the car...

if you already have a block heater why not use it? Oil pan heater still has to be plugged in to function, so you would still be running an extension cord to where ever the car is....lay a small rug/welcome mat over the cord where it crosses the sidewalk. maybe if you left it on all night every night, but it doesnt need to be on all night - a half hour to an hour, depending on temps, before starting is plenty of time to warm the oil. we have a magnetic one that the other half used to use on his old GL that didnt like starting in the cold - he would stick it on the oil pan the night before but not plug it in - in the morning he would plug it in when he got up.... oil/pan was plenty warm by the time he was ready to start the car and it would start much easier. Just dont forget to unplug/remove it before leaving...

the 2.0 is going to have less horsepower than the 2.2. 94 is still first generation so there will be some major differences in wiring harnesses - not a lot of options without a bunch of wiring work. If you want horsepower/torque, maybe you should consider a WRX or something...