-
Posts
310 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by pearlm30
-
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think the auto trany diff. fluid was drained and filled with ATF, who know how long its been running like that bu previous owner. Do I have to take apart the trany to gain acess to ajust the diff.? If so, I dont think I have the ability to do it. The whine noise is really loud and still looking for a way to quiet it down Any other advice? Thanks again
-
The 98 Forester I just picked up came with a very noisy front differential. Check the dip stick and it looked like ATF:eek: . Dont know how long the previous owner run the car like that. Maybe a new trany would be needed in the future? Drain all the ATF out and refill with 75w 90 and its still very noisy. Any suggestion to quiet it down? Thicker and heavier weight? Lucas additives? Thanks
-
I was looking at a 98 forester with 120,xxx miles that has been vandalized/stolen recovered, and its parked at a dealer bodyshop.The owner/seller who is tired of dealing with the insurance company and just want to get rid of it. Busted windshield, sprayed painted inside out, keyed on almost every panel and ignition to name a few. Anyway, the oil filter was removed for oil analysis( got a little tag by the steering wheel to remind driver not to start the car) and owner/seller has no idea why. The shop was closed for the weekend so I couldnt find out why. Is the oil analysis a insurance company standard op procedure for stolen recovery cars? Any idea why:confused:
-
I went to a coupe of junk yards and found some nice 95/96 wagons that were in accidents. I would like to pull the trany out of them but dont think the junk yard provides any crank on wheels. So 1)whats the best easy way to get them out? 2) If I can rent a crank, would it be easier to remove engine and trany as a combo, then seprate engine and trany on floor? What needed to removed to do this? 3) Any other advice? Thanks
-
The 95 outback is starting to develop some noise similar to bad CV joints when turn just a little while i step on the gas. But the CV axles are less than 5000 miles on them. Could this noise be the front wheel bearings? How can I tell if the bearings are bad? I did jack the car up and everything seems to be normal. Any advice??? Thanks
-
I brought brand new axles from NAPA autoparts hoping to cure my vibration problem from 25 to 30 mph. But they made it worst. Then I thought it could be the driveshaft(prop shaft), brought a used one, still not good. Decided to just bite the bullet and get rebuild axles from CV axle.com. I compared the both axles and NAPA is about 1 inch shorter:mad: . I think that why NAPA axles vibrate. It could be the wrong application, who knows. So I now have cv axle.com axles in the car now, 95% of the vibration is gone:headbang: . Will get a wheel aligment & balance done tomorrow. Lesson learned. Hope this will help someone.
-
Follow up on my case. I went to the junk yard to get the prop driveshaft which is out off a 97 Legecy outback. Look at the U joints, they are better than mine(95 outback) but not much better. Got home and installed the 97 shaft and relized that the center bearing mount was different:mad: so I couldnt get the heat shield back on. Also the shaft did not look center in the guide near the rear diff. Anyway, how can I tell my u joints are bad??? The 97 are better, but not by much. Wonder that will be enough to cause vibration??? Thanks
-
My snow tires are smaller size than the standard outback tires. So basically went from 205/70/15 to 185/60/14. When I accelerate(foot on gas)from about 20 to 40 mph, the vibration is felt at steering wheel and seat. Once I stop accelerate(foot off gas). The vibration stops right the way. My left CV joint was bad and grease was all over. Will be replacing it this afternoon if the weather is warm enough. Will keep anyone updated.