Dr. RX

If it were a turbo Legacy with an EJ22T it would be easy, but a N/A EJ22 would be a little harder. In general, you would need a Legacy turbo crossmember, pedal assy (the EJ20G tranny has a hydraulic clutch) and exhaust system. If you could get the front wiring harness and the ECU out of Legacy turbo that would help, in fact it should be considered critical. You'll need the radiator also. There are a lot more detail to discuss, but this will give you a general idea.

Gee, lets see, I have purchased 4 front clips. 1. 3 from a guy who is no longer in business and has gone into hiding because he owes a lot of people money. The 4th was from a guy in Tacoma, the same place Dave got his from. 2. Yes 3. I'll have to get back with you on this one, the guy in Tacoma didn't sound like he would be in the business too much longer the last time I talked with him. 4. The average price was about $2300, but this was for model years 94 to 96, the newer versions if you can get them, with cost almost twice that. 5. Not sure where you are going with this one.

As long as you bought the hats from Subaru in the first place, I don't think you would have a problem adding to them.

You can't do that!!! Mainly because that was to be my next project. I agree with Dave, if you are willing to tackle the problems and have the skills needed, bringing it in under $4,000 is easy.

Gee, I'm sorry, but I haven't been stagnent in the learning about these engine since 2004, what I said in that post I have since learned is not completely true, as I pointed you to a trusted site, that shows you the differences between the different engines. I am still learning about these engines, I know now that not all EJ20Gs have closed decks, the engine in my car is an open deck, the engine block that I am picking up this weekend is from an early Legacy EJ20G, it has an open deck. So when I say that not all EJ20Gs have a closed deck, I am talking from experience. The EJ20G was not ONLY used in the Impreza, and my last sentence shows. The EJ20K is the engine in the Version IV WRXs. The 22B engine was not the same as the US EJ22T. There is some good info in the link you gave, but it is not accurate either, the link I gave compares exactly as the info I have found from Japanese site. So, if you what to exchange barbs about who is more knowledgeable about these engines, fire away.

Inferior?? I have over 110,000 trouble free miles on my EJ20G, still pulls strong. My engine is a 96 model year, they built the EJ20G from 1989 to 1996, they only bulit the EJ22T from 1991 to 1994. If it was so superior, why did they only build it for 4 years. I think before you start calling something inferior, you'd better check it out first.

Not all EJ20Gs are closed deck. You are really streching it comparing an EA82 series to an EJ series, two different worlds. Check the second table on this web site, http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/engine.html , note that the 'C' type is an EJ20G, and an open deck.

Probably the biggest bang for the bucks is to install a JDM WRX engine (not a JDM Legacy Turbo engine), there is very little wiring, one special harness for the coil on plug ignition and adding two wires to the ECU harness, replacing two wires and re-pinning one wire. Depending upon the engine, that would be almost a 50% increase in hourse power, cost about $2500 (WRX front clip). You couldn't give the EJ22T a 50% increase in power for that amount of money.

Please explain, an EJ series engine is different then an EA82 series engine. Too many differences to list.

Well I guess if you have no automotive aptitude, the EJ25 would be less challenging, but I wouldn't run the 2.5 on the ECU from the 1.8. I have done the WRX conversion. It takes about 6 hours to bolt in the conversion and then about a week to figure out the wiring. If you choose to tackle the WRX conversion, make sure that you get a front clip with the rear suspesion, not just the engine and the ECU. Let me know if you want to go the WRX path, I can help you.

So what is this suppose to mean then????

Glad to hear that you have it back, heck that was even faster then Ed's recovery.

I love the part where you call your RX a Type R. I'm going to have to research the seller's copmment about non-A/C RAs had scoops and A/C RAs had sunroofs. I believe a true RA didn't have A/C, but these are specialized cars, pretty much built to order in Japan, I guess anything would be possible if you were willing to pay for it.

Yep glass, I just went out and checked, at first I though plastic, but then I remembered that I have RockBlocker on them.

If it came from Arizona, it was done by Keith at GR8Wheels, and yes it would be a mix of many versions, but like I said, the Type RA never came with a sunroof, but the JDM WRX might have. I might forward the picture to Keith and see if he recognises it. As for 'old gen' getting these conversion, there is one running around Western Washington that I had a small hand in getting running, it is an EA82 Turbo Wagon with a 96 STI engine (275hp), tranny and rear diff. It is my understanding that he plans to use it as his daily driver.

That sounds right.

Interesting, a sun roof was not an option for a Type RA. I don't even think it was an option on a WRX.

Not all Type RA had the vent scoops.

I believe they are only in the digital dash cars.

In the early years there were two Type RAs, one was a WRX with a close ratio tranny and DCCD, the other was a WRX STi with the same tranny. The STi were go for 10 to 15 hp more up until 97, the both the WRX and the STi had 280hp if you believe the spec sheet. Something you need to know, up until two years ago there was a gentleman's agreement between all Japanese Auto makers that in Japan, no sports sedan would ever be rated at more the 280 hp, so just because the spec say that the WRX nad STi have the same hp after 97, don't believe it. So what makes a Type RA, pretty much the suspension and the tranny, and the lack of some comfort items, other then that it is that same as a STi (non-type). For a 98 Type RA (or version V engine) $2500 for a long block (just block and heads, no intake) seems about right. I know a guy who sells these things all the time, he gets $4500 for the front clip of a 98 Type RA, but I think the prices are going up.

I won't be there, I promised a guy that I would help him rebuild his car by welding up some of the frame pieces for him, that was yesterday. Well, to make a long story short, he didn't have all the tools we needed (read that as zero) and I had left mine at home thinking he had tool. So I told him that I would bring my tools back today to finish the job. So Noah, have a blast, I'll see you sooner or later now that you are back here in the NW.

Creative is an understatement. My suggestion would be to get there early.

If you are getting the engine from a front clip, it should have all the front suspension there, so that part should be easy. I don't know if this will satisfy the requirement for something in writing, but at least you would have basically the same brake as the car the engine came out of.

You might be able to get away with different ratios in the front and back on the auto trannies, since they are basically FWD trannies until you push the 4WD button. Even then you might get away with it since the bands in the auto would be more forgiving then the gears in a standard tranny. It could be that the reason why you were changing the tranny was that the person who owned (or someone prior) the car, changed that read diff, not knowing about the tranny having a diff and that the ratios needed to match. All I know is that every EA82 car that I have been under that had an auto tranny has had a 3.70 rear diff.

Sounds like you need a 5 bolt conversion too.