Dr. RX

Well, I just checked the Subaru Parts manual, 85 to 90, it shows a non-LSD 3.70 ratio rear diff for all those years, some of the models shown are turbos, but others are not, so why would a N/A have a 3.70 rear diff? There are 5 different auto trannies from 85 to 90, 1 for 85 & 86, 1 for 87, 1 for 88, 1 for part of 89, and 1 for 89 and 90. The latest Factory Service Manual the I have in the house if for 1986, it shows the auto tranny as having a 3.70 ratio. I will check the other FSMs that I have outside and see if I have one for one on the years in between 87 to 90.

The EJ20G is the EJ20T, the 'T' is erronious when talking about Subaru engines with the exception of the EA81T, the EA82T, and the EJ22T. JDM engine importers use a generic identification system and for most JDM engines, a 'T' denotes a turbocharged engine. The problem is that for Subarus, the EJ20 series engine has many different ID's for a turbo engine, EJ20G, EJ20K, EJ205, and EJ207, so if you buy from one of the imports, you'll need to know which year the engine is that you are getting. From 1989 to 1996 EJ20G, 97 to 98 EJ20K, 99 to?? EJ205, not sure when the EJ207 came in. Ok, to answer your question, if you are going to use an EJ20G, you will need a tranny from an EJ20G or an EJ22T, both should take the power of the engine. A tranny from a N/A EJ20 may last awhile, but will fail quickly with all the power from the EJ20G.

The only thing that I might add is that if you can car pool it would probably help since parking is limited around his place (all of his cars are taking up his exsisting placing places).

To answer your question, it should be a bolt up replacement, but you need to find out what the ratio (front diff) is for the JDM tranny, it might be different in which case you'll also have to change the rear diff.

I'm sure Dave will back this up, but yes, that is true, but what I'm not certain about is whether or not it needs to be a digital dash or not, I don't think the analog dash has a speed sensor in it.

You might consider something newer then a 93 unless it came from a JDM Legacy. The EJ20G (the correct engine number) in a 93 WRX was the first year, although it looks that same from the outside, internally it is different from the EJ20G that came in the JDM Legacy that year. There were some problems with that engine, and it isn't as reliable as later ones.

If it help, I believe this is the same as our Justy here in the USA. I know nothing about Justys, maybe someone else will now that they can make the connection.

If you can live without an e-brake, you can use Legacy/Impreza parts for the front conversion, but you will have to get XT6 stuff for the rear. A FWD XT6 rear brake system will work, but will require that the center hole be slightly enlarged. I don't know if you guys got the Nissan (Datsun) 200SX, but the rear e-brake on those cars is a close bolt on with some fabrication required.

There is some confusion on the subject of lower control (suspension) arms. On my RX I used the stock EA82 arms with no problem, others had to use that XT6 arms, it appears that the hole where the bolt goes through at the crossmember is larger on some arms then it is on others. To be on the safe side, use the XT6 arm, we know they have the correct size hole. I don't think the ball joint is different. I'm not sure about the axle question, since I don't know the spline count on a XT6 axle, if it is 25 then it will work, if it is 23 then no it won't. Now that I think about it, I seem to remember that the XT6 has a 25 slpine count, so they will only work with a turbo tranny. I'm glad to see that my pioneering efforts have created a lot of experts, I know there have been several versions of pieces put together to come up with a conversion. If you want to keep the front parking brake, all of these are pretty much a bolt on conversion. If you want to tackle a rear e-brake, that will require a little fabrication skills.

Next time you are out by your car, count the number of stars on the emblem, then count the number of stars in our logo.

I'll beat Zap to this one, START YOUR OWN THREAD!!!

93 was the first year for the WRX and there were many teething problems, this could be one of them. It almost sounds like a turbo stall, the fix would be to get a turbo off a 95 or 96 WRX. I'm surprised that you would have a 93 in Ireland, I was under the impression the Europe didn't get WRXs until 94, what is the build date on the data plaque, if 9/93 or later you really have a 94.

If the two diff are different ratios, the transmission and rear diff will bind up. With an automatic, the effect may not be a dramatic as a standard tranny. On slippery surfaces, one set of wheels will spin fasten then the other, on dry pavement, the difference will cause a binding that could eventually cause major damage to one or both.

To answer your question, no you can not use the Impreza rear brake setup. The 200SX is not a direct bolt up, but from what I hear, it is close.

It would have been more interesting if you had actually done the work yourself.

So, do you have things sorted out since I was down there?

Because there is webbing casted into the block by the bearing surfaces that will not allow the piston to pull through that direction.

Why don't you do a Google search for 'wheel spacers' and see what comes up, usually any place that has spacers for a Subaru should have longer studs too.

OK, you mean spacer, a spicer is the cross shape piece of the universal joints on a driveline. On wheel spacers you should have at least some threads showing, two would be safe, more is better. Most spacers require either longer studs or bolts.

Oh Oh, looks like I hit a nerve. Just trying to point out the stupidity of the rules.

So, since all the stuff on my Impreza is bolted on, no fabricated mods, does that make me Prepared AWD?

Sounds like someone is using a generic engine code that is used by most Japanese manufacturers (but not Subaru). I found many hit on Google that list an EJ22E, the dates range from 9/89 to 9/99, which covers at least two different versions of the engine. I think they are using the "e" as a notation that the engine is electric fuel injected.

Ok, here is what you need to do, and it will be good having both cars complete. The engine and tranny should bolt right in, no problem, after you change over the turbo crossmember. You will have to change the pedal assy since the LSi uses a cable activated clutch and the Turbo is a hydraulic clutch, no problem there either, just unbolt the old, bolt in the new in the same place. There should be a rubber plug on the firewall where the hydralic master cylinder will bolt. You will have to change radiators also. Now, for the wiring, there are two approches here, one is to get the two wiring diagrams and see where the differences are, then splice the wires that are needed into the LSi wiring harness. The other way, simpler but means removal of the dash, is to simply replace the LSi front wiring harness' with the ones from the Turbo.

So, what makes you think that there is no head gasket damage. These are aluminum engines, overheating is a bad thing for them and is the main cause for pre-mature head gasket failure. They may not appear damaged (and how they can tell that without looking at them is amazing), but I would venture to say that they are on their way out.

I have used copper gaskets on other engines with lots of success. I don't understand what you are talking about when you said, "I DID NOT try was to get both the block, and the heads mirror polished." Why would they need to be polished, the copper would mold to the imprefections, maybe the polishing was the problem. All of the engine that I used copper head gaskets on were cast iron, not aluminum, maybe there is a difference there also. Sorry to hear about this, wish I had a spare EA82T sitting around that is not in a driveable car. You could always by my wagon for $1500, it has a fairly new engine in it (less then 500 miles).