Dr. RX

No, at the time WWU got the contract, the EA82 was aready in development. When Dr. Seal went to Japan, the EA82 was already in production. So WWU used that EA81 as a start for the next gen OHC engines for Subaru, if you look at the belt layout, you'll see something similar to the EJ single belt design, not the two belt design of the EA82. If there would have been a couple of extra sets of OHC EA81 heads, I would have gotten them to create a duplicate engine for the road, but he couldn't find them, he thought that they might have gotten sent to Japan. Dr Seal is not too good at the Subaru engine numbering system, but when I showed him the differences in the EA82 and EJ series engine, he pointed to the EJ series and told me that was the one that they did the work on.

When I talked with Dr. Seal, he stated that they did the reseach work for the EJ series engines, not the EA82s. Look at the way the belts are on the EA81, that is one belt, not two like the EA82s.

All decals are Subaru parts.

Have you checked my web site lately??

Well, I don't own the GL-10 anymore, Zigi does and he lives over in that direction.

Well, it appears that water has nothing to do with the engine quitting. There seems to be an intermittent problem getting power to the ECU. I'm going to have to check that splices that I made during the conversion.

Thanks, I can use some of this info if I ever get around to installing a WRX engine into a Porsche 914.

I'm glad that you are fixing it up, then I won't have to when it comes to my place. Dr. Seal told me that I could store it for the University when I get my garage built. So it will be nice to have it running. A side note, that is not the orginal engine, Jackie Chan blew up the orginal one, that is the quickly thrown together second engine.

Well, I think I found a weak spot in my 96 WRX conversion, this morning the right side of the car went through a puddle of water at about 50mph. There was a fine spray kicked up about 10 feet. About 100 yards later the engine electronics quit, the tach dropped to zero and there was no spark. After about a half an hour, I could get the engine to start, but it wouldn't stay running. Sometimes it would die almost immediately, other times it would run for 15 minutes before dying. Now the car is home, thank heavens for AAA. I think the weak spot is that the igniter is on the right side, behind the air box, but low enough that it could get hit with spray. On all USA model cars the igniter is on the firewall in the center of the engine bay. I'm thinking of relocating the igniter to that location.

How about Cape Canaveral/ Kennedy Space Center?

I think I could read several volumes of books on "What not to do." When it comes to engine parts, only use genuine Subaru parts, that should be rule #1.

As far as I know, no turbo automatic ever came stock with LSD, I don't even think it was optional.

And paint the side molding and bumpers black, the gray gives it away. At least to those who know.

We use to do that in the military all the time. Most of us we not fortunate enough to have a cook like Tim around.

Well, I'm not sure about that, I'd like you to get a few more years of driving under your belt before I sell something like this to you. Sorry, but at age 17, it is my feeling that you are not ready for this.

One word, "naked".

Here's the thing that gets me, these guys pay between $700 to $1000 for these engines in Japan, have them shipped over by the container load to lower shipping cost per engine, then try to sell them fo over twice what they paid for them. I'm trying to get in with one of these guys who really doesn't like shipping Subaru engine over here because that don't sell as well as the Hondas, Toyotas and Nissans. If I can, I'm trying to get to be able to pick them up for what he would pay for them, then pay for the shipping (whatever portion of the container the engine takes up). This should lower the price on these engine considerably. The bad news is that I'm not going to ship any engine I get, it will be sold locally.

Very interesting, the engine shown is out of a 95 or 96 WRX STi, but the car that they show is at least a 97 or newer GC8. The horse power is correct for that engine. If I remember correctly, there was a special 555 model sold, in 96, so it might be the correct engine for that, but it is the same engine as any other 95 or 96 JDM WRX STi engine. That price is a little high for just the engine. Archemitis, I appreciate your enthuiasm, but if that engine doesn't have the right ECU or a programable ECU, wiring it in 5 hours wouldn't do you any good. I have done one of these conversion, and stating 5 hours to do the wiring is pretty sporty, unless you have done many of these. But in review the data for my conversion, I found that you'll need to have the wiring diagram for both car to do it correctly.

Also the rarest.

Are you sure that it is exhaust gas that is coming out of the filler tube, don't you have the cap on? There is a certain amount of pressure that is normal in the crank case, but you might want to replace your PCV, use only a genuine Subaru valve though, other will not function properly.

Here is my list: http://www.ctintl.com/ http://www.foreignenginesinc.com/ http://www.nippon-motors.com/ http://www.usedengines.com/ http://www.kwcengine.com/ http://www.risingsunengines.com/ http://automotive-advantage.com/ Hope this helps.

Sorry, the sign on my tree house says, "Girls ONLY".

Does this mean that I can't go up in my tree fort because I'm a board member???

Nope the one Tex showed us is in Washington, sad to say, not Cal.

Since you don't have your manual handy, the cam tower is the thing that the cams are on, between the head and the valve/cam cover. I use a dye that I get from NAPA to trace down oil leaks, it is added to the oil and checked with a black light. NAPA also sells a neat black light that is about the size of a ball point pen, it works really great for checking oil leaks in hard to get at places.