Dr. RX

If you go strictly by VIN, there is no model distinction for a GT in the Legacy line for 1994, that didn't shgow up until 1996, so the GT package was an option in 1994, not a model, so it would be very difficult to find production figures.

Anyone got any photo and build sheets on these early GTs, the first time the VIN shows a model GT is in 1996, but there is a note on the 1990 for the model code (7th place) the state after code number 5 + Legacy 'LS Special' (Options-GT, LT & NT). From 1996 on there is a code for a separate GT model. So like Josh said, it was an option package, not a model distinction.

Gee, the last time I saw something like that was on a bull dozer, and since all the RX's that I know of do not have tracks, I fail to see what good a set up like that would be.

First, for us US blokes, what is a Vortex? As for the rear lifting point, are you removing it with the tranny still attached? There is a lifting point on the tranny, the tab is usually bent over, but it is still there. When lifting just the engine, I use a small metal bracket that is located near the turbo, or sometimes I just hook up to the turbo itself. Being the technical person that I am, I can't pass this up, if you have a DOHC EJ20 (I've never seen a SOHC EJ20) then the engine number is an EJ20G, the 'T' was used only on the SOHC engines (ie EA82T and EJ22T).

I take the back roads to Enumclaw (Hobart Rd from Issaquah). I'll be leaving around 8:30 AM. Well, I tried putting on the spacers this morning, only had enough threads for 4 turns on the lug nuts, minimum is 8. So I was confronted with a choice, get longer studs and try to press the old ones out and news ones if if I could find some today, or get the steel wheels at Carter Subaru and sell my WRX wheels. Since I knew the steel wheels would work, I went for the steel wheels. Austin was working today so he changed them out for me. The new wheels and changing the tires cost a little more the what I paid for the WRX wheels, so if I sell them for $200, I'm close to breaking even.

Only use genuine Subaru parts.

Well, let's see, I plan to replace my ticking clock with a quiet digital one, need to see if I have enough threads left after I put the spacers on my snow wheels, then go up to the mountains with the Northwest crew to hunt the elusive Xmas trees.

Every vehicle that I have is a 4X4 (or 4WD). One way or another I'll be there.

Yea, we talked about this before, but until I saw these picture, I couldn't really get an idea of what he had done. Boy, the is a tough one. I think he tried the best he could with what he had. When I did the V8 in the Corvair, we actually used two radiators, one on each side of the engine, they were small radiator from a VW I believe (it's been over 15 years since then, but the car is still running). I'm not sure if that setup would work here. The problem that I see is that even with the two fans, there is not enough air flow through the radiator. If somehow cold air could be forced to flow through the radiator, it might work in that location.

Sorry to be so technical, but the coupe wasn't available until 86. All the parts you mentioned will interchange.

I will check my 84 FSM to see if it covers that EA81T, it is for sale. I do have the supplimental 83 manual for the turbo, plus a wiring and trouble shooting manual, but since those are so rare, they are not for sale.

Dang, wrong continent!!! I thought that I had found a BRAT on eBay that I would be willing to bid on. Major BUMMER. Looks great though. Too bad that front clip that I have coming in is for spare parts, but then I don't have a BRAT to put it into either.

Someone needs to call JWX and tell him to put down the FSMs he just got and look at this posting on the board.

The wheel spacers just got here, I'll test fit them tomorrow. I hope I have enough thread length left. Looking better for Saturday.

If it sits lateral (transverse sitting sideways in the engine bay) it is a L4, if it is inline (sitting front to back in the engine bay), it is an I4, both are in-line, straight block engines.

So where are you seeing this on your car?? You're right that the 1.8L is teh displacement, but L4 usually means an inline 4 cylinder, the Subaru engine is usually refered to as a H4, (H meaning horizontal), the 2BBL usually stands for 2 barrel carb.

Whenever you replace the fluid in a power steering system, make sure to energize the system while the front end is still in the air, this will bleed out any air that might have gotten in the lines. By energized the system, I mean start the engine and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (all the way one way, then all the way the other way) several times. Doing this while on the ground will not remove the air from the lines.

Guess what, all EA82Ts are the same per each model year, there was a little change in 87, but the non-RX turbos and the RX turbos are the same engine. The difference is in the gear of the trannies and the suspension.

Compared to your Hatch, you'll think you're flying, then I'll give you a ride and show you what a fast Subaru feels like.

Where have I seen this car information posted before? The 5 speeds are rarer then the autos, seems like most people order these with autos, the 91 is the rarest because it comes with the VLSD rear diff.

Here is mine, it is effectinately called Lewy (if you look at the license plate you may see why), and is currently owned by another board member, I believe it is his first Subaru also.

Remember, the OB is registered as a SUV, the GT is a passenger car, so expect the OB to handle like a SUV. I'm sure that you can get the roadability near to the GT, but at what cost? You could have gotten the plain Jane Legacy wagon, it comes N/A. I was planning on getting the OB XT for my wife, but we'll probably get an earlier year OB instead.

So I'm wondering why you didn't drive both the GT and the OB before you purchased the new car, you would have saved a little money by getting the GT. I don't quite understand what you are saying (see red text above).

PRETTIER????? Wow, I've never heard that said, and it definately isn't for my taste, but then I've never really been impressed with the Saab body style. If I were to rate these cars, it would be 1) Subaru, 2) Volvo, 3) Saab. You are getting so much more car for your money with teh Subaru then any of the others. Josh, what's the deal, this is the second time that I have noticed that you are suggesting someone go somewhere else to get info. Yes, both places are fine sources of info, but this site is not slouch either. Yes, get as much info as possible, use as many sources as possible. Go out to the dealers and drive each of the cars for yourself, that way if later you find you don't like the car, you'll have only yourself to blame.

I wish I was closer, I'd offer him $1000, but would also be willing to go the asking price if he absolutely wouldn't back down. There is one of these in great condition in Tacoma, he wants $2800 for it (which is a very good price). A few market price for one in good condition (which all the things you mentioned here fixed) would be between $3500 and $4000. I could easily spend $1500 gettin the car in great shape and still make money.