Turbone

Check the wire from the alternator, make sure its not corroded. Check the voltage at the starter yet? That should tell you if the cable is bad.

Should I do a write up and post it on AUSubaru? Or would it even matter? My rig is actually just over the legal limit for being streetable. Not due to design flaws but to aggressive engineering. I've been lucky, driving it all over the NW and not getting stopped. I know someday I will tho.

Hey, he started it:-p He didnt state wether it was front or rear.

I was talking rear only. How much does it cost to weld a rear diff compared to buying a rear LSD?

None. You need to weld your diff for off-road.

Dust from the clutch disc most llikely. I've seen it a few times.

Too bad your not on the west side of the Mtns. I need someone to replace a skylight for me. And fix a floor. And patch a ceiling. And pour some concrete. And make a ramp for my front deck. And, and, and........

He's more south/centrally located. I've been to his neck of the woods a few times.

Thanks for correcting that Pat. Its been so long since I've done a dash I forgot they were bolt heads not screws:rolleyes: That, and my CRS is getting worse.

3 bolts on top, one on each end and one in the middle. A real biotch to get out, use a 90deg phillips. Theres a bolt underneath of each end, once you get access to it you will see it. To remove the center louvers theres a small piece of plastic inbetween the vents. Remove it to access 2 screws. I suggest removing the steering colume, it makes life much easier. The cable for the vent control on top can be another PIA, but it needs to come loose too. The wiring for the heater controls also disconnect, lots of other little wire connectors here and there also. Thats it in a nutshell, besides the obvious stuff GD mentioned.

I dont know, whats your mechanical apptitude? If you have pulled any EA engines before and worked on them, it shouldnt take more than a day +. I wouldnt do the HG, but I would put on new timing belts, water pump and reseal the oil pump while it was out.

My setup exactly. I drove mine all the way to WCSS8 (about a 4hr drive) at 65mph +/-. And I believe I was the only Soob to make it thru 3 of the deep holes in the mudpit.

Is it carbed or SPFI? If it was originally carbed and now has a SPFI, I would say the fuel pump could be suspect.

It should be in the shifter, it has nothing to do with the tranny.

My 89 RX has the shoulder belt.

Edrach was the one who had the parts and know how in a thread from long ago. Either PM him or he might respond here. Finding another resistor block in a JY car is hit and miss, they sometimes are just as messed up as yours.

Eh, I should have got this one also. It happened about 3mo ago to my RX. I got around the corner from my house and it just died. I could start it, but it ran like crap. So bad that the DP got red hot from excess fuel being pumped down it. Sometimes its the simple ones that get yeah.

Heres the link for the XT6, pretty cheap considering the mileage. Does this look like EV's old XT6?

I'm a 25yr old in a 52yr old body(feels older now days). Yes, it actually turned out ok. Altho I missed the Show and Shine (might have won a trophy in either car), I still had the warm fuzzy feeling after the run thru the mud pit:D

Those are 14in Enkies, for a Peugeot. The ribs on the hubs have to be ground down for them to fit. Good luck finding a set. Btw, I pulled that chrome tip off. It was just to................gay:rolleyes: Got to get me a decent performance muffler.

Yes, its a straight swap. Start a thread on the Wanted Forum.

Or you might end up with the same situation again. Oops, a min late.

Look at the horns on that Duece:eek: Like freekin train horns:headbang:

Only on the XT's.

To check to see if the FP is cycling, look for the green test connector. Its either under the steering colume or in the corner by the wiper motor. When its connected turn the key to the on position and you should be able to hear it running.