Turbone

Those are 14in Enkies, for a Peugeot. The ribs on the hubs have to be ground down for them to fit. Good luck finding a set. Btw, I pulled that chrome tip off. It was just to................gay:rolleyes: Got to get me a decent performance muffler.

Yes, its a straight swap. Start a thread on the Wanted Forum.

Or you might end up with the same situation again. Oops, a min late.

Look at the horns on that Duece:eek: Like freekin train horns:headbang:

Only on the XT's.

To check to see if the FP is cycling, look for the green test connector. Its either under the steering colume or in the corner by the wiper motor. When its connected turn the key to the on position and you should be able to hear it running.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 This is the link for the codes. Do you have the 3spd AT or the 4EAT?

Red with black hood? I saw it earlier in the year on Hwy16 at a few of the road construction sites.

Dont make me post a pic of mine;)

Are you sure its a 8? Usually the first long blink is a 10.

When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? Does the fuel pump cycle?

You dont know how lucky you are. Working right next door to east King Counties secret/hid away butcher:brow:

I used to live by Lake Sawyer, many years ago. Used to go to that yard occasionally. That and 4 Corners. That was around the time you were born;) I've had 2 accidents in BD. One right in front of Boots and the other in front of the old Market down the road. I live in Bonney Lk now. Frank makes killer jerky btw.

The yard in BD, next to Franks? They are usually hiring at Walt and Verns in Buckley also.

Uh, yeah. I notice that you try and post to every thread, every day:-p But I'm glad the board is here to help with your sanity:cool:

Ok, thats enough. Your starting to embarrass me:-p Like NW pointed out, theres lots of good folks here in the PNW. Yes, and from all over that are here on the USMB:headbang:

I went to college also. It taught me the basics, but in real life things work differently. Experiance is the main thing, you have to start from some where.

A deep 15/16. I just had to replace mine not to long ago.

Was the car running? If not, you might be able to get away with just suctioning (yes, turkey baister) the resevour out. If it was running, a flush might be in order. It depends on how much was put in and how it reacts.

Take Corky's advice on this one. I know what it takes to run a biz and he's spot on. It also might be a good idea to take a business class at a local community college, like Green River CC. It takes alot of sit down paperwork to keep a biz going, taxes, payroll(if you hire), insurance, etc.

The cone washer is wore out. And most likely the flat washer also.

All carb engines have higher comp than turbo's. Its not just a simple remove from one and install in the another. The EA81T is unique because the injectors are in the heads. You will need the wiring harness, ECU, fuel pump, fuel sending unit, engine x-member and maybe more peices I missed. And this is if you have the complete engine to do the swap.

WooHoo! Betcha they never expected that out of a 88 GL-10:headbang: The ultimate sleeper:burnout:

That used to be my old Hatch. Then he butchered it:-\ Its still not running, like said by Chux, he has steering to figure out yet. All the work was done by someone else. Maybe he'll get tired of it and sell it. Maybe I'll buy it back:brow: Btw, my new Hatch doesnt have a full frame and I'm running a Nissan T-Case.

You will need to pull the glove box out and the panel under it also. This way you can get to the duct work and the heater itself. Pull all the duct you can and wash it with hot soapy water. Some here have used some type of chemical (Pine Sol maybe?) to help cut the odor. The motor should drop out the bottom of the heater, the nest might be in there. There is some ducting that goes over to the drivers side also, pull the panels off under the dash to get to them. Good luck.